is it worth it?
09-03-20, 03:45 PM
#26
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So when I Google search 700c rims of course I've get lots of results. But I'm looking for cheap/budget.... Not a hundred plus dollars for a pair. This is an old bike that wasn't exactly high-end in its day lol. I also noticed that all the 700c rims I see for sale have quick release. That's probably not a major deal actually although I may end up running this bike single speed I just don't know yet. Also are there 700c rim brake wheel sets available that have threaded freehub bodies and the old 126 spacing on the rear? so far everything I have found in my search results have been for more modern bikes with an eight-speed cassette. I don't want to spend a whole bunch of money modernizing this bike. I just want a good set of wheels that don't cost much for my wife to ride around town.
honestly for what I'm trying to achieve out of this bike I'm beginning to wonder if just buying a dirt cheap set of 27-in rims off Amazon won't be the best way to go. I just want a decent bike for my wife to ride around once in a while. It will probably spend more time in the garage than it will on the road but when she does want to go with me I want her to have something that she can depend on.
honestly for what I'm trying to achieve out of this bike I'm beginning to wonder if just buying a dirt cheap set of 27-in rims off Amazon won't be the best way to go. I just want a decent bike for my wife to ride around once in a while. It will probably spend more time in the garage than it will on the road but when she does want to go with me I want her to have something that she can depend on.
Again, a FREEHUB body is totally DIFFERENT hub than a FREEWHEEL hub.
The thing with buying used wheels from the web is that you don't know what you're getting = how true they are, how they spin, how much wear is on the brake tracks.
Perhaps your local bike shop has some oler wheels?
Cheers
09-03-20, 03:49 PM
#27
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Thread Starter
Yes, there are 700C wheels with 126mm spacing although new wheels will probably be wider. I'd check out a bicycle co-op if there's one anywhere near you and it's open.
Again, a FREEHUB body is totally DIFFERENT hub than a FREEWHEEL hub.
The thing with buying used wheels from the web is that you don't know what you're getting = how true they are, how they spin, how much wear is on the brake tracks.
Perhaps your local bike shop has some oler wheels?
Cheers
Again, a FREEHUB body is totally DIFFERENT hub than a FREEWHEEL hub.
The thing with buying used wheels from the web is that you don't know what you're getting = how true they are, how they spin, how much wear is on the brake tracks.
Perhaps your local bike shop has some oler wheels?
Cheers
09-03-20, 03:58 PM
#28
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Cheers
09-03-20, 04:08 PM
#29
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That's what happens when you talk to your phone and you get to rambling on and you're not paying attention to what's coming out of your mouth lol
Last edited by trail_monkey; 09-03-20 at 04:12 PM.
09-03-20, 04:19 PM
#30
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To paraphrase the Kingston Trio's Coplas Revisited song and apply it to bicyclists.
1st guy: " The National Safety Councils advise us not to drink and ride!"
2nd guy: "No. Why not?"
1st guy: "You may hit a bump and spill t he whole thing."
Cheers
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09-03-20, 04:24 PM
#31
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09-04-20, 06:41 AM
#32
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"Smart" phones should have a breathalyzer interlock.....
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09-04-20, 06:42 AM
#33
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09-06-20, 06:21 AM
#34
vintage rider
One of the issues with steel rims is that they won't handle the pressures of some modern tires, so your tire choices will be limited.
That bike looks like a mid 70's model, and would have certainly had 27" wheels. The rear caliper is usually where you run into trouble converting to 700C, many Japanese frames seem to have the brake bridge set super high for some reason. I ran into a problem with a bike I was given a few years ago, someone had taken a bottom of the line Panasonic that had 27" wheels and mounted up a set of modern 700C aero wheels from the 1990's. The front worked out fine, the original Dia Compe 610 caliper was just fine, but even a long reach center pull wouldn't reach the rim. What they did was to run an old mountain bike caliper in the rear with oversized pads to make up the clearance issues.
The right answer is to use a drop bolt for the rear caliper. It lowers the mounting point of the caliper so you can use the original set of brakes.
That bike looks like a mid 70's model, and would have certainly had 27" wheels. The rear caliper is usually where you run into trouble converting to 700C, many Japanese frames seem to have the brake bridge set super high for some reason. I ran into a problem with a bike I was given a few years ago, someone had taken a bottom of the line Panasonic that had 27" wheels and mounted up a set of modern 700C aero wheels from the 1990's. The front worked out fine, the original Dia Compe 610 caliper was just fine, but even a long reach center pull wouldn't reach the rim. What they did was to run an old mountain bike caliper in the rear with oversized pads to make up the clearance issues.
The right answer is to use a drop bolt for the rear caliper. It lowers the mounting point of the caliper so you can use the original set of brakes.
09-06-20, 06:54 AM
#35
Senior Member
Thread Starter
One of the issues with steel rims is that they won't handle the pressures of some modern tires, so your tire choices will be limited.
That bike looks like a mid 70's model, and would have certainly had 27" wheels. The rear caliper is usually where you run into trouble converting to 700C, many Japanese frames seem to have the brake bridge set super high for some reason. I ran into a problem with a bike I was given a few years ago, someone had taken a bottom of the line Panasonic that had 27" wheels and mounted up a set of modern 700C aero wheels from the 1990's. The front worked out fine, the original Dia Compe 610 caliper was just fine, but even a long reach center pull wouldn't reach the rim. What they did was to run an old mountain bike caliper in the rear with oversized pads to make up the clearance issues.
The right answer is to use a drop bolt for the rear caliper. It lowers the mounting point of the caliper so you can use the original set of brakes.
That bike looks like a mid 70's model, and would have certainly had 27" wheels. The rear caliper is usually where you run into trouble converting to 700C, many Japanese frames seem to have the brake bridge set super high for some reason. I ran into a problem with a bike I was given a few years ago, someone had taken a bottom of the line Panasonic that had 27" wheels and mounted up a set of modern 700C aero wheels from the 1990's. The front worked out fine, the original Dia Compe 610 caliper was just fine, but even a long reach center pull wouldn't reach the rim. What they did was to run an old mountain bike caliper in the rear with oversized pads to make up the clearance issues.
The right answer is to use a drop bolt for the rear caliper. It lowers the mounting point of the caliper so you can use the original set of brakes.
