deacon mark

I want to change my 12-25 cassette to get a better gearing. I have a Bottecchia CF662 with a compact crank so what do you think here is my take. I am able to do most routine things on my bike but this is not something I have done yet,

I have not actually done this yet but seems it would be easy. To change your cassette and put on a new chain it should be pretty simply. I need to remove the old with a chain tool and lock thread. Then I replace with a new 10 speed 11-23 rear shimano. The old one is a 12-25 but I what to go 11-23. Then I simply put the new chain one removing the old chain. These are the shimano HG super narrow chains and you are suppose to use a shimano chain tool specific for these chains.

Can you use a regular chain tool despite what they say? For all you experts is this a simply thing I want to accomplish? It seems terrible simple but until you actually do it, it remains an unknown. My reasoning is that I am probably nearing the end of my present chains life and I really would rather have the 11-23 cassette. I see it as killing two birds with one stone and getting a better gearing. While I am at it I may put on set of new tires. That I can manage but how long would this take to accomplish, 1-2 hours? Do any of you change cassette regularly depending our where you are riding?

operator

Cassette and chain replace + adjust should take no more than 15 minutes. And yes you will need to double check the front/rear adjustment. The shimano chains do not "require" their shimano tool. A park CT-3 for example will do them just fine. Also "lock thread" better be cassette lockring tool or you ain't swappin no cassettes.

Lawrence08648

A chain whip and a special socket are the necessary tools.

Jeff Wills

+1. These articles should help:
Chain:
https://parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=25
Cassette:
https://parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=48

dr1445

might it possible to hold the gears in a vice, since the cassette is trash in anycase. of course try the penetrating oil first but the time honored method to remove bonded by rust parts is some heat and impact where practical.

edit: sorry for the error, please disregard, these comments were intended for the rusted cassette removal post.

DieselDan

As for the labor, this may take an hour with changing the tires out.

deacon mark

Update and thanks to all who helped! I swap the cassette out and it went fine a bit of force to get the old one off but it is still good. I ran the chain through and it road the bike on the indoor trainer ( 5 inches of snow) and it shifts flawless and did not even require any adjustment. The current chain just had no stretch at all it lined up perfect with my steel mechanics ruler and every link.

I am a guitar repairman so I have many useful tools even for bikes. I just could not see swapping a chain with no stretch. I ask around and based on how I ride it does makes sense that the chain is fine. I am a spinner, never stand to pedal, and live in the flatlands so my I am pretty easy on the chain. The chain had about 1300 miles and I just hated to swap out one that had no stretch.

Now if I can only get some pads for these cane creek scr 3's I love the brake holders I just need a replacement pad. I don't need a whole brake shoe just the pad that slips in these pads a terrible.

In any case this forum is a great place to find help thanks

Kimmo 

I would've suggested getting a special link to rejoin the chain; besides making the chain removable without a tool, you avoid the possibility of creating a weak link.



Because the end of the pin in a normal link is a tad flared (they're technically rivets, IIRC), the side plate is often slightly damaged by refitting.

Panthers007

I'd suggest a torque-wrench to make certain you tighten the new lock-ring down to specified torque. Most people who don't use one end up with the cassette on with insufficient torque. Any decent beam-type torque-wrench (SEARS is one source), marked from 0 to 600 inch-pounds in 25-ip markings, will serve you well.

Kimmo 

Non torque wrench spec: pretty damn hard.

The knurling (?) on those lockrings is pretty deep, so you need to force a lot of preload over the high bits to have one tight when it's sitting on the low bits.