jjames1452 

Looks like 600 with Bio Pace is the original. I just happen to habmce that!!

texaspandj

Yikes! I stand corrected.
Ive been meaning to pm you and Canklecat but my taBlet is out and thos freAking phone is following in its footsteps...so frustrating...UGH.

TXsailor

I have some more Ironman questions. I have been wanting another frame to put 10 speed components on and after a few adult beverages I bought one on E-bay last night. The add says its a 22" frame. The 89 I have measures 21 1/2. Did they offer them in one centimeter increments or are we measuring differently and they are the same size? It also has a Exage sport triple groupset. Were they available this way or has it been switched? It has everything but the wheels and I have two extra sets of ten speed wheels I can use. Does anyone know what BCD the crank should be. I would need the right chainrings if I used that crank with my wheels. I will get some 10 speed downtube shifters & chain and I have a triple 10 speed rear derailleur.

texaspandj

The Ironman was issued in even 2 centimeter increments, 46cm , 48cm, , etc. It was "basically" measured center of bottom bracket to top of top tube. The Ironman was Never issued with Exage components. Not sure of chainring compatibility.
Pics would be interesting.

RobbieTunes

I am at The Hilly Hundred, ogling a 1976 Centurion Pro Tput on awesome condition, and will try to hit this thread tonight. There are a lot of steel bikes here.

TXsailor

I am guessing that its a 56 which should be fine for me. My 89 is 54 and sometimes feels like it could be a little bigger. I'll post some pictures when I get it. I may keep the triple but the rest of it will get a upgrade (or downgrade depending on how you look at it) I am thinking a sweet steel frame with modern drive train and maybe even carbon wheels would be about as good as it gets on a long ride.

texaspandj

Agreed, go for it.
​​​​​​​A drive side pic could help us determine what size you have.

RobbieTunes

1-22" would be a 56 cm. Centurion measured from the center of
f the BB to the bottom of the scalloped side opening of the sets cluster, or pretty much c-top.

2-No way it came with Exage. Someone swapped it over, and there is a good chance that triple is a compact triple with 110 BCD.. The RSX triple (3x7 STI) is a compact 110 BCD and used a symmetrical bb, which is rsre. I think the Exage triple was also compact 110 BCD and may well use a symmetrical BB aldo, so it has value.

If you vlimb, that is a great group. If not, you are better off with a double, keeping that bb.

The frame is worth whatever you hang on it.

TXsailor

https://vod.ebay.com/vod/FetchOrderD...=1868334504001
Lets see if this works

TXsailor

I like triples since I ride everything from pretty flat to lots of hills. We are wanting to do RAGBRI in 2019 and there is no telling what it will entail. My Origin8 has a triple with 53/39/30 and if I could duplicate that I would be a happy camper.

seedsbelize 

Typed on a phone no doubt.

seedsbelize 

Wants me to log in.

TXsailor

Not being a internet guru I am not sure how to get the pictures from E-bay to here. I tried to copy the address and tried to save the pictures to my computer and didn't get either to work. I'll post some when it gets here unless someone can enlighten me on how to get them off E-bay.

markwesti

I'm not really a computer guy either , but here goes ... I think it's called a screen shot and some times I can't get it to work when I try it on google images .
mouse left click on image to enlarge it , mouse over image and right click now left click on copy and minimize that window go back to BF and and right click then left click on paste .

TXsailor

Here it is. Not a very good picture but I got it to work from my phone

RobbieTunes

TXsailor

Here is the 88 Master E-bay bike. Its 56cm. I took the wheels off my 89 for a test ride. It came complete less wheels. I think the only original part on it is the headset and maybe the seat post.

canklecat

@TXsailor: How's the handling with that angled shorty stem? I'm considering a shorter stem while my injured shoulder heals. I already switched from the long original to a shorter stem earlier this year, but after the injury in May it's been difficult to do more than 20-30 miles on the Ironman.

Main difference I've noticed with the slightly shorter stem (80mm CTC vs 115 for the original) is handling and balance are just a bit twitchier when I'm standing to pedal. I don't notice the difference on the indoor trainer, but off the bike I notice when I don't ride the Ironman outside often enough. Overall handling is still fine, though, and generally more comfortable before the shoulder injury.

With the long original stem handling is very stable, including fast curves and downhills, but I'm too stretched out. Might be better with aero bars.

I'm also pondering something like the Nitto Noodle drop bars, something with shorter reach across the bar top to the hoods, less drop, and a little less reach on the drops. But that's a more expensive solution.

RobbieTunes

c-cat,... Interesting topic.

On my 56cm frames, I run either a 70mm Cinelli or an 80mm modern stem, including a 56cm Ironman.
On my 54cm frames, I run a 90mm stem, including a 54cm Ironman.

To me, the 56cm bikes are more stable, even descending twisties.

Last weekend, on many curving descents, I had to focus harder to stay smooth and graceful on the 54cm Raleigh with a 90mm stem. One of my recurring thoughts was "I'd be carving this up on my Ironman." At the beginning of some descents, I felt like I was too far forward.

(On my 53cm Serotta, I run a 95mm stem, and it's still too short for my liking.)

I find it interesting. I'm not sure what seems to overrule what, as far as size vs. geometry vs. stem length. My 56cm Super Corsa, with a 90mm stem, was too twitchy to ride. The geometry had me "up on it" way more than I preferred.

seypat

Robbie and I are about the same size with the same body dimensions. I am heavier, though. He has the talent and the good looks, and I have the charming personality. I also run 80ish stems on the 56s and 90ish stems on the 54s. The reason is that I want my weight between the axles. If that weight gets forward out over the front fork/wheel the handling really suffers. It feels like I have a flat on the front or the brake is dragging. My advice is to find the position you like the best on any of your bikes. After you find it take some measurements and write them down. Use those measurements to duplicate the position on all of the bikes you have. The 3 measurements I take are:

Middle of BB/crankbolt up the ST to the top of the saddle
Middle of BB/crankbolt in a straight line to the middle of the handlebars/stem
Front/nose of saddle to the middle of the handlebars/stem

After that you can fine tune it by moving the saddle back or forward if you need to. It works for me.

TXsailor

I am planning on trying a flat stem but it will still need to be pretty short. I might be ok with 80mm. The 89 has a slight angle down and is 80mm. It feels pretty good but I might could handle a little longer. The purple 88 is a 56 vs 54 for the 89 so a 80mm would add about 2cm to my reach if my figuring is correct. I am going to disassemble the 89 for a little while and switch it over to 10 speed on the rear. Want to trade stems for a while and see how they work?

To answer your question It didn't feel much different than my 89 but it only has a 80 mm stem on it. They both feel twitchy the first mile or two if I have been riding my other bikes. Then something clicks in my feeble mind and wow they feel good. Kind of like the difference in my Corvette and my wife's Traverse. I only rode the 88 around town but corners on city streets felt good.

texaspandj

Seypat, I do something similar but, because my crankarms are different lengths I measure:

Center of pedal to top of saddle.
KOP fit.
Front tip of saddle to center of handlebars.
Using this method because one of mine is one size smaller I had to use a longer stem and max out post height.

canklecat

The short stem I'm using on the Ironman now is the one you sent me earlier this year. Actually it's terrific, just right for my personal meatware-interface with the bike when I'm healthy.

I may be a bit hyper-sensitive to handling characteristics because I've spent so little *road* time on the Ironman since the May shoulder injury. The Ironman has mostly been on the Cycleops trainer. Sure, I do stand-to-pedal workouts, but no balance is involved. So when I do get on the road I need a little time to get reacquainted with the bike.

When I wrote the above I had only ridden the Ironman outdoors once since August -- Wednesday this week, a few hours before I posted that comment to TXsailor. So the handling felt a bit twitchy. But it also did with the longer original stem in June 2017 when I first got the Ironman. I hadn't ridden a drop bar bike at all in 30+ years, so I needed some time to get accustomed to it again.

But I took the Ironman for another ride last night -- same route, pretty much the same weather/wind conditions, so there were no other variables. The handling felt just fine again. So I just needed a couple of rides to get accustomed to the handling, especially standing to sprint up short, steep hills.

Most of my riding since mid-summer has been on my Univega hybrid, which now wears a Nitto albatross handlebar. That also required some gittin' acquainted time. The reach is much shorter, the grip is much farther back toward my thighs and hips, so the balance is very different from the flat and riser bars I'd been using. Standing to pedal puts my body bolt upright and vertical, which is efficient for power transfer to the pedals, but inefficient if there's any headwind. And I have to be careful to avoid leaning forward on the grips while standing to pedal, or risk a death wobble. But if I slide my hands forward into the curved part of the bar just ahead of the grips, it feels like riding the hoods while standing to pedal. Just some small adjustments.

But after several weeks of use I love this albatross bar. Can't see using anything else on that Univega now. Heck, I'm even thinking of snagging a lighter weight older road bike and converting it from drop to albatross bars, just to save a little weight. The Univega Via Carisma weighs about 30 lbs, more if I add the racks, fenders, etc. Ideally an older steelie road bike in the 23-25 lb range, converted to an albatross bar, bar end shifters and appropriate brake levers would make a nimble urban cruiser for days when my shoulder and neck don't like drop bars.

TXsailor

Everything removed but headset cup & cone. 56 CM

TXsailor

When I try to find Pure Ice 542CP No means no I am told it's no longer available. Anyone know another that will match?