Bike locking setups
#1
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Bike locking setups
Just wondering about the lock setups people use to look after their bikes when not in use. For my Kona, I have an Abus Varedo 47 u lock, along with a 7 foot on guard cable (for the wheels and saddle) AND if leaving my bike in particularly high crime areas an additional length of chain complete with a padlock for an extra level of security.
What do you guys use? Any story's of high security locks being breached?
What do you guys use? Any story's of high security locks being breached?
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I live in a VERY low crime area. Most folk around here wouldn't know the difference between a GMC Denali and Trek Domane. I could probably leave my bike anywhere with no chain.
But I don't trust the public that much, so I always use a 5 foot cable lock and lock it to something sturdy.
But I don't trust the public that much, so I always use a 5 foot cable lock and lock it to something sturdy.
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When leaving my bike to go in for a coffee I leave it with just a cable lock around it's frame and wheels, plus it's always in sight. When in a grocery store, I'll bring it inside and rely on the stores security camera's + the cable lock for it's security .
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4ft combination cable lock for something quick like a convenience store or when the bike is visible, U lock & 7 ft KryptoFlex cable for anything else. My MTB was stolen from our open garage while I was home, so I secure it w/the combo lock there.
#5
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Good Luck... Cables are pretty easily cut, no matter what the length.
Chains of hardened steel resist bolt cutters , most Chain comes on a roll when you buy the amount you want
the Hardware store uses bolt cutters to get your length off the roll.
Chains of hardened steel resist bolt cutters , most Chain comes on a roll when you buy the amount you want
the Hardware store uses bolt cutters to get your length off the roll.
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https://www.bikeforums.net/general-cy...y-options.html
#7
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It's all about making a hard target.
Remove front wheel and put it in line with the rear wheel, chain through both wheels and the frame. Saddle secured with a cable lock.
Remove front wheel and put it in line with the rear wheel, chain through both wheels and the frame. Saddle secured with a cable lock.
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I use my helmet strap. I never get more than 20' away from it & never out of my sight.
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I use something very similar to this when I commute to work.
Wiggle | Abus CombiFlex 202 90cm Cable Bike Lock | Cable Locks
I'm fortunate in that the parking area at my place of business is very low risk for theft. Something like this is perfect if you just need to keep honest people honest.
These threads come up all the time, and I've developed a theory from reading so many of them.
There's a law of diminishing returns as far as bike locks go. If the area and situation you have to park your bike in is so high-risk that you need to lug around 25lbs worth of super thick ultra-hardened steel chain to lock your crappiest beater bike up with to stop it from being stolen - then I think it might be time to re-consider if it's worth riding there.
Or walking there.
Or being there at all, come to think of it.
My two cents.
Wiggle | Abus CombiFlex 202 90cm Cable Bike Lock | Cable Locks
I'm fortunate in that the parking area at my place of business is very low risk for theft. Something like this is perfect if you just need to keep honest people honest.
These threads come up all the time, and I've developed a theory from reading so many of them.
There's a law of diminishing returns as far as bike locks go. If the area and situation you have to park your bike in is so high-risk that you need to lug around 25lbs worth of super thick ultra-hardened steel chain to lock your crappiest beater bike up with to stop it from being stolen - then I think it might be time to re-consider if it's worth riding there.
Or walking there.
Or being there at all, come to think of it.
My two cents.
#10
Senior Member
There's a law of diminishing returns as far as bike locks go. If the area and situation you have to park your bike in is so high-risk that you need to lug around 25lbs worth of super thick ultra-hardened steel chain to lock your crappiest beater bike up with to stop it from being stolen - then I think it might be time to re-consider if it's worth riding there.
Or walking there.
Or being there at all, come to think of it.
My two cents.
Or walking there.
Or being there at all, come to think of it.
My two cents.
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I live in a fairly low crime town and I normally don't even carry a lock with me. I do have one I found in the garage that I'm not sure where it came from, must have bought it quite a few years ago, and another one that I'm not sure where it went to. I suppose I ought to carry one just in case, but so far I've not had any problems. My old bike is a cheap Walmart mountain bike that I wasn't too worried about losing, but I guess I'd hate to lose my current bike.
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I use an OnGuard Pit Bull Mini U-lock, a relatively beefy cable lock, with its own padlock, and a seat leash. My preferred method of locking is to use the U-lock to lock the frame to the bike rack in a manner that leaves no room for a bottle jack. I use the cable lock to lock the frame and front wheels to the rack, usually in a manner that holds the front wheel fairly straight (more to keep the bike standing and somewhat protected from other bikes than for security). The cable lock is easily defeated, but I doubt many thieves around here would bother just for the wheels. The seat leash saves my saddle from opportunistic thieves, though I suspect the ugly seat cover I use is probably better saddle theft prevention.
For the most part, I just try to have one of the more difficult to steal bikes at the bike rack. Usually someone has their bike locked by only the front wheel, and someone else has a front wheel of the same size not locked, so a free, unsecured bike is available for the taking. It's also surprisingly common for people to "lock" their bikes in a manner that the bike can be taken without defeating the lock, for example, a cable lock around the handlebar or just between a brake cable and handlebar. Sometimes I'll return to the rack to find the locks still there, but the bikes gone, too.
For the most part, I just try to have one of the more difficult to steal bikes at the bike rack. Usually someone has their bike locked by only the front wheel, and someone else has a front wheel of the same size not locked, so a free, unsecured bike is available for the taking. It's also surprisingly common for people to "lock" their bikes in a manner that the bike can be taken without defeating the lock, for example, a cable lock around the handlebar or just between a brake cable and handlebar. Sometimes I'll return to the rack to find the locks still there, but the bikes gone, too.