squirtdad

Dual pivot brakes (not the ones with the wire stradle things )

clipless pedals

ramping and other stuff that makes shifting easier..... my modern(ish) 8 speed cassette and thumb shifters (new and old) shift great

brifters

rechargeable Led lights

Don Buska

In general I have absolutely nothing bad to say about modern technology in bike components. Considering the advanced CAD and CAM we have today the components should be top notch, when they are intended to be (exception being Kmart bikes and their components), versus anything produced "back in the day".

With that said there is a reason I restore and ride bikes made in the 70's and 80's. Mainly because the quality is the best for that time frame and even in todays riding environment I'm able to keep up with the current riders. True I don't hang with the fully carbon crowds who only ride at 18+ MPH, I am truly comfortable with the 12-15 MPH riders I bike with now.

So in conclusion, ride new if it makes you happy and enjoy the best of what todays technology can deliver. I love restoring and riding my vintage stuff and it makes me happy and healthy too.

athrowawaynic

About the only thing I don't like about modern bikes is the dearth of quality steel frames available.

hueyhoolihan

what was i thinking! these should have been at the top of my list.

sloar 

Clipless pedal, wireless computers and co2 pumps.

Barabaika

Most modern components actually look very cheap.
Companies save big dollars by not sanding and polishing their CNC-machined components, they just paint them black.

noglider 

I like pretty much all of it. Seriously. Some of it makes a big difference, like cassette hubs. Clipless pedals, even better. Some of it doesn't make much difference to me, like the brake levers with more leverage, but I have long fingers, so I don't care. For others, they are life savers.

I'm too cheap to buy a new bike, and that's a big reason I don't have a modern frame. But I've spent a lot of money piecing bikes together. It's the all-at-once spending I can't bring myself to.

Dual pivots are nice, sure, but they're not game changing for me, maybe again because of my long fingers.

Kool Stop took the formula over from Matthauser which was out around in the mid or late 70s. Still the best I've tried.

I haven't seen through axles yet, and I haven't read an explanation of them. Can someone give me some pointers?

I haven't tried disc brakes yet.

I've converted all my bikes to indexed shifting except for one, and I'm probably going to do the last one this year. It's not game changing, but I like it.

Tires have unquestionably improved.

Funny that rims haven't changed much, except that if you're willing to spend crazy amounts, you can get good light rims. Adapting a saying from the computer world, I'll say: good, lightweight, cheap, choose two.

Aesthetics of some of the new stuff aren't as nice, though. Cranks look too chunky, though there's a reason. Decals are too big and too plentiful! Threadless stems are chunky but they don't bother me that much, and they sure are easier to swap etc. I don't mind sloping top tubes, but I know many people do.

jmeb

Maybe there aren't as many as their once was, but there are still tons of quality steel frames being made. From big manufacturers like Raleigh and Surly, to small manufacturers like Black Mountain Cycles, to the hundreds of small framebuilders.

Salubrious

Internally geared hubs, in particular the Rohloff (and in particular, **not** the Alfine 11-speed!).

Because I go bikepacking now (leaving for the Tour Divide in a couple of weeks), disk brakes (i can brake for 10 miles on a descent and not burn them up) and bikepacking gear. But the truth is I like just about all of it, although I'm not used to carbon yet.

palincss

The Compass Randonneur bar is available in 40 cm https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/co...-4-handlebars/ and so is the Compass Maes Parallel https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/co...54-handlebars/

TenGrainBread 

Threaded headsets. Not having to worry about a seized quill stem is priceless. In fact any time one can avoid an expanding wedge interface is great for longevity.

Modern pinch bolt style cranks (Hollowtech, etc) are lighter and easier to work on than square taper. I would be happy to never have to use a crank puller again.

Modern wide-hooded brake levers. I don't care that much about having the shifting integrated but brifters have brought us into an age where riding on the hoods is way more comfortable than it used to be due to a wider, more ergonomic hood and lever and flatter transition from ramps to hoods.

Stems with removable faceplates. Goes back pretty far but I would still consider this modern. Makes a huge difference to me as a mechanic who works on dozens of bikes a week.

Oh, and for mtb, modern wide handlebars (700-800mm) are SO much better for handling than the old narrow mtb bars. Going between them is night and day.

obrentharris 

Has any one mentioned modern shocks and suspension forks? I know I'm not the only one here who spends a lot of time on the mountain bike. It's a rocky, rooty world out there on most of the trails that I ride.
Brent

leftthread

Tektro RL340 levers.

gomango

Agreed.

Full squish on my Yeti SB5 with loads of travel.

Can't wait for Fruita and Moab this summer......

thinktubes 

I thought I would hate external/outboard bearing cranksets. I was wrong.

bikingshearer 

All the frames on my built-up bikes are Eroica-eligible. Only one has components that are Eroica-eligible. The rest are Campy 10sp equipped except for the commuter, which is Shimano 9sp.

I love my Eroica bike, I love doing the Eroica ride and I love drooling over other people's Eroica bikes. But my other bikes are easier to ride, the brakes work better, and SPD and SPD shoes beat the hell out of clips-and-straps and old Detto Pietros.

That's my story and I'm sticking with it. YMMV. Void where prohibited by law. Some parts are edible.

T-Mar

Through axles (aka thru-axles or TAs) are a wheel mounting system where the entire axle slides in or out of a hub for wheel installation or removal. As such the frame/fork does not require slotted dropouts but can simply have holes in the frame/fork (popouts?).

Thru-axles are hollow and oversize, typically 15 or 20mm for extra strength and rigidity that is critical on suspension bicycles and those equipped with disc brakes. With suspension forks, the legs do not necessarily compress equally causing vertical misalignment. Similarly, applying a disc brake will create a torque that drives one fork leg horizontally out of alignment with the other. This misalignment, both vertical and horizontal, can stress and break axles. The oversize thru-axle holds the hub and fork legs in proper alignment. Originally developed for downhill bikes, the technology has spread to ATBs and is making inroads on road bicycles. Easier to show than explain...

noglider 

@T-Mar, thank you. You gave an excellent explanation, and the video does, too. Thanks. And I can see why people say this is a good step forward. It does look that way.

I appreciate the mechanical advantages of the Hollowtech style crank spindle, and the threadless headset, too. Better to work on, get better service from them.

Primitive Don

Tektro CR720 Cantilever brakes
New SRAM chains
New freehubs/cassettes
New Shimano brifters
New Shimano trigger shifters
New Shimano rear derailleurs