Light Bicycle Wheels
#751
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Sorry I didn't see this.
They are at ProWheelBuilder as I type this. ETA is August 14.
No rush, really, as I believe I might have a stress fracture in my tibia. Waiting for radiology to read the x-rays and will no more in a day or two but it doesn't feel good. If so then I'll be reading books for a few weeks rather than cycling.
-Tim-
They are at ProWheelBuilder as I type this. ETA is August 14.
No rush, really, as I believe I might have a stress fracture in my tibia. Waiting for radiology to read the x-rays and will no more in a day or two but it doesn't feel good. If so then I'll be reading books for a few weeks rather than cycling.
-Tim-
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I'm surprised the wheel isn't true. I'd have a shop check for even tension, before twisting a nipple. If it's way off, I'd contact LB about getting a little reimbursement for truing expenses. You paid for the wheel to be perfect, and it's not.
(edit) If this was my wheel, I'd just make it right, but not everyone can do that properly.
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The bike looks sexy.
I'm surprised the wheel isn't true. I'd have a shop check for even tension, before twisting a nipple. If it's way off, I'd contact LB about getting a little reimbursement for truing expenses. You paid for the wheel to be perfect, and it's not.
(edit) If this was my wheel, I'd just make it right, but not everyone can do that properly.
I'm surprised the wheel isn't true. I'd have a shop check for even tension, before twisting a nipple. If it's way off, I'd contact LB about getting a little reimbursement for truing expenses. You paid for the wheel to be perfect, and it's not.
(edit) If this was my wheel, I'd just make it right, but not everyone can do that properly.
#754
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1-2 mm would not be acceptable to me on a rim brake wheel, especially the front.
I'd get a second opinion about truing it.
If the wheel expert turns out to be correct, I'd be looking to return the wheel.
-Tim-
I'd get a second opinion about truing it.
If the wheel expert turns out to be correct, I'd be looking to return the wheel.
-Tim-
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Not acceptable in a new wheel for any braking system, although certainly much more tolerable with discs. This story has somewhat queered me on these guys for an upcoming wheel purchase. I would think runout would be QC check # 1 for any wheel maker.
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Have you contacted LB? In my experience, their support has been great and they should make it right for you. Sometimes things happen, either in shipping, or maybe it did somehow slip through QC, but for me it's how a company handles these issues after the fact that matters. I had issues with my hubs when I first got my wheels, and they took care of it.
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when @Rides4Beer had an issue(that wasn't their fault), LB handeled it better than I expected.
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Have you contacted LB? In my experience, their support has been great and they should make it right for you. Sometimes things happen, either in shipping, or maybe it did somehow slip through QC, but for me it's how a company handles these issues after the fact that matters. I had issues with my hubs when I first got my wheels, and they took care of it.
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Thanks for the advice, guys. I'm taking it to a second builder today for their feedback and will update the thread this afternoon
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back from wheel builder #2 and the wheel is now perfect. So after $15, I'm of course still very happy with this purchase and the price of the wheels. Will report back after a few hundred miles
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$15? Sounds like a good LBS.
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Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
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back from wheel builder #2 and the wheel is now perfect. So after $15, I'm of course still very happy with this purchase and the price of the wheels. Will report back after a few hundred miles
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back from wheel builder #2 and the wheel is now perfect. So after $15, I'm of course still very happy with this purchase and the price of the wheels. Will report back after a few hundred miles
#766
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back from wheel builder #2 and the wheel is now perfect. So after $15, I'm of course still very happy with this purchase and the price of the wheels. Will report back after a few hundred miles
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back from wheel builder #2 and the wheel is now perfect. So after $15, I'm of course still very happy with this purchase and the price of the wheels. Will report back after a few hundred miles
I'm glad it worked out.
-Tim-
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That's because there are just so many ways to be wrong, and only a few ways to be right...
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Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
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Update for those who may have been put off by my comments about cornering on the sidewall:
I put a 26mm Specialized Turbo on my front wheel and that improved cornering a lot. It has a 31mm tread/66mm carcass. I was able to get close to the top 2% on a TOC descent (11k entries) - so definitely not slow, but not necessarily at the physical limit either. I could see myself shaving a few more seconds with this setup. And this is just with the front tire swapped to a 3 year old turbo. With front and rear Corsa Controls or similar I might be able to break 1%. In short, the wheels are not the issue. The tires are.
I suggested that tread and carcass width be measured at bicyclerollingresistance. To my surprise, Jarno obliged me and posted a ton of data for older tires as well.
As it turns out, the Pirelli P Zeros have the same tread:carcass ratio as the vittoria corsa speed tires - a TT tire that most agree has low grip. The Cinturato is closer to high grip tires like the Corsa.
The point is, you can definitely use a 25mm tire on these rims and maybe even some 23s. Just confirm that they don’t have a narrow tread and you’ll be good. Somewhere around 45% is probably ideal.
I know @Ericoschmitt is using 23mm Corsa Speeds up front on these wheels. To that I say: you have bigger cojones than I do
I put a 26mm Specialized Turbo on my front wheel and that improved cornering a lot. It has a 31mm tread/66mm carcass. I was able to get close to the top 2% on a TOC descent (11k entries) - so definitely not slow, but not necessarily at the physical limit either. I could see myself shaving a few more seconds with this setup. And this is just with the front tire swapped to a 3 year old turbo. With front and rear Corsa Controls or similar I might be able to break 1%. In short, the wheels are not the issue. The tires are.
I suggested that tread and carcass width be measured at bicyclerollingresistance. To my surprise, Jarno obliged me and posted a ton of data for older tires as well.
As it turns out, the Pirelli P Zeros have the same tread:carcass ratio as the vittoria corsa speed tires - a TT tire that most agree has low grip. The Cinturato is closer to high grip tires like the Corsa.
The point is, you can definitely use a 25mm tire on these rims and maybe even some 23s. Just confirm that they don’t have a narrow tread and you’ll be good. Somewhere around 45% is probably ideal.
I know @Ericoschmitt is using 23mm Corsa Speeds up front on these wheels. To that I say: you have bigger cojones than I do
Last edited by smashndash; 08-11-19 at 07:46 PM.
#771
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Light Wheels but Different Width
Both light wheels and 700c in diameter but front is a tad thicker than rear. Is that ok?
Bontrager Race Lite 25-622 -- 700x25c, Dual Compound (front)
Vittoria Rubino 23-622 -- 700x23c (rear)
Bontrager Race Lite 25-622 -- 700x25c, Dual Compound (front)
Vittoria Rubino 23-622 -- 700x23c (rear)
#772
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#773
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I would put the larger tire on the rear, since that's where most of your weight rests. I currently have that setup on one wheelset, 25mm rear, 23mm front. Not on purpose, only because I had an extra 25mm tire and put a hole in the rear. But a lot of people run a larger rear tire for the extra suspension.
#774
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You might choose larger on the front if you do a lot of descending.
__________________
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
#775
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Wheels are done.
Richard @ ProWheelBuilder.com said it took him all of 15 minutes to build them up for fixed gear.
RRU35C02 rims - 25 mm wide, 35 mm deep, 3k matte with grooved graphene brake track.
Mack Superlight track hubs.
Brass nipples with CX-Ray spokes, 24-2x rear, 20-radial front.
Front is 669 grams.
Rear is 772 grams.
1441 grams for the pair which is about 6 oz lighter than the old wheels.
The bike sits right at 15 lb including cages, pedals and computer mount.
Total cost for the wheels alone including parts and labor was just over $850. Man, those Black Prince pads cost a fortune.
They are set up with tubes and I forgot about rim tape. The LBS had some Velox. I also didn't think to get tubes with longer valve stems to accommodate the deeper rims but found a few old boat anchor tubes with longer stems laying around my garage for now.
25 mm Vittoria Rubino G+ Speed go on Dura Ace C24 wheels very easily but mounting on these rims was a pita. They actually snapped into place like when mounting a tubeless tire. They are almost exactly as wide as the rim however and I can't wait to get them up to speed to see how they feel.
I'll try to get some better photos of the bike in the daylight but probably won't ride it for a while as I'm off the bike due to injury.
-Tim-
Richard @ ProWheelBuilder.com said it took him all of 15 minutes to build them up for fixed gear.
RRU35C02 rims - 25 mm wide, 35 mm deep, 3k matte with grooved graphene brake track.
Mack Superlight track hubs.
Brass nipples with CX-Ray spokes, 24-2x rear, 20-radial front.
Front is 669 grams.
Rear is 772 grams.
1441 grams for the pair which is about 6 oz lighter than the old wheels.
The bike sits right at 15 lb including cages, pedals and computer mount.
Total cost for the wheels alone including parts and labor was just over $850. Man, those Black Prince pads cost a fortune.
They are set up with tubes and I forgot about rim tape. The LBS had some Velox. I also didn't think to get tubes with longer valve stems to accommodate the deeper rims but found a few old boat anchor tubes with longer stems laying around my garage for now.
25 mm Vittoria Rubino G+ Speed go on Dura Ace C24 wheels very easily but mounting on these rims was a pita. They actually snapped into place like when mounting a tubeless tire. They are almost exactly as wide as the rim however and I can't wait to get them up to speed to see how they feel.
I'll try to get some better photos of the bike in the daylight but probably won't ride it for a while as I'm off the bike due to injury.
-Tim-