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Crazy New Bike Day

Old 07-28-19, 11:26 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by artclone
Sweet! Welcome to the club. If you can't find a model name it was probably (as you and others have metioned) sold as a Specialissima framset, especially since it appears built up of racer-preferred parts.

FWIW, the Super Corsa and SL are two-word model names. (The later SL might be one word, I'm not sure.) Might help when researching.

Check Mark Bulgier's site for catalog.bulgier.net - /pics/bike/Catalogs/ (Marked 81 but I think it's 1980.) I have the sales price sheet somewhere for the Super Corsa and it was something like $2700!



https://bulgier.net/pics/bike/Catalog...hi-81a/pg2.jpg
You know, every time I typed out SC or SL I was unsure if they should be separate words or not. Since the names on the frames are in all caps and don't appear to have a space, that was no help. Thank you for clearing that up.

A question: was Specialissima an actual model in 1981? Or was it a designation, as suggested above, equal to "Reparto Corse"? I have seen frames built in the later 80s with the word Specialissima on the non-drive chainstay, with a couple-three representations of road bikes next to it. I always assumed that was a model name on the later-80s frames.

I'm on a steep learning curve here when it comes to Bianchi hierarchy.

DD
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Old 07-28-19, 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Drillium Dude
You know, every time I typed out SC or SL I was unsure if they should be separate words or not. Since the names on the frames are in all caps and don't appear to have a space, that was no help. Thank you for clearing that up.

A question: was Specialissima an actual model in 1981? Or was it a designation, as suggested above, equal to "Reparto Corse"? I have seen frames built in the later 80s with the word Specialissima on the non-drive chainstay, with a couple-three representations of road bikes next to it. I always assumed that was a model name on the later-80s frames.

I'm on a steep learning curve here when it comes to Bianchi hierarchy.

DD
Yeah, the Specialissima was their top of line model (60s/70s maybe earlier), then it was the race frameset (late 70s/early 80s), then in the mid-80s they started slapping the decal on anything approaching their high-end (even my Rallye model came with that sticker, which was pushing it.)

If you look carefully at the top tube model name, the space between "Super" and "Corsa" is an eetsy weensey bit wider than those between other letters. At least on mine and the one other I've seen in person (@merziac's).

Last edited by artclone; 07-28-19 at 11:36 PM.
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Old 07-29-19, 01:06 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Drillium Dude
One thing I've thought is weird here is that there is no gold date label and no evidence of there ever being one. Did they all come with this feature? Also, most of the pics I'm finding online have date stamping on the seat lug, but mine has nothing but the serial on the bottom of the shell.

I'm going to put the number on the Bianchi serial number thread.

DD
You're giving me too much credit here, no idea on the date label and yours is also a bit odd to my amature eyes is no model SC or SL spelled out on the top tube, no gold date sticker, Piaggio stickers on the seatube when some ads show the headbadge being Piaggio too, Colombus decals seem odd as well and the cable guides aren't what we normally see. Maybe yours was a custom, special or some such, what do I know.
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Old 07-29-19, 08:07 AM
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Bianchi was not consistant with much in those years.

Serial number on the BB shell was normal for these bikes in the transition to Piaggio ownership years. My SC has it there, as does a (damaged) SL frameset I have. The gold stickers did seem to come off without residue, but repros are available.

I don't see anything odd about the cable guides, what's different?

The seat tube decals do seem later than the frame suggests, but I imagine they had frames built in 79 that they didn't badge and sell until later. Or the PO might have replaces the originals. Then again, the head tube decals changed from Piaggio Vespa to the Bianchi heraldry, so why not others.

There are some subtle differences between frames, though. There's a slightly different brake bridge on the two I have, for one thing.

I'll PM you the serial numbers on mine, in might help with determining then year yours was built.
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Old 07-29-19, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by artclone
Bianchi was not consistant with much in those years.

Serial number on the BB shell was normal for these bikes in the transition to Piaggio ownership years. My SC has it there, as does a (damaged) SL frameset I have. The gold stickers did seem to come off without residue, but repros are available.

I don't see anything odd about the cable guides, what's different?

The seat tube decals do seem later than the frame suggests, but I imagine they had frames built in 79 that they didn't badge and sell until later. Or the PO might have replaces the originals. Then again, the head tube decals changed from Piaggio Vespa to the Bianchi heraldry, so why not others.

There are some subtle differences between frames, though. There's a slightly different brake bridge on the two I have, for one thing.

I'll PM you the serial numbers on mine, in might help with determining then year yours was built.
The brake bridge has an interesting feature: the recessed-bolt side is one continuous bore, not stepped as would be normal. There is a cylindrical Allen key fitting that goes inside and threads to the brake center bolt. This is different from my other frames which use a recessed bolt as they all have a little "shelf" or step. I'll try to take a decent photo of the bridge, but right now this stupid camera can't seem to figure out what I'm trying to focus on!

Here's the bolt (on the right) alongside a normal recessed rear brake bolt:







DD
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Old 07-29-19, 05:08 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Drillium Dude
The brake bridge has an interesting feature: the recessed-bolt side is one continuous bore, not stepped as would be normal. There is a cylindrical Allen key fitting that goes inside and threads to the brake center bolt. This is different from my other frames which use a recessed bolt as they all have a little "shelf" or step. I'll try to take a decent photo of the bridge, but right now this stupid camera can't seem to figure out what I'm trying to focus on!

Here's the bolt (on the right) alongside a normal recessed rear brake bolt:







DD
That is interesting. Hard to tell without brake bridge pics if that's due to the kind of brakes you have. Here's mine: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ave-alone.html
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Old 07-30-19, 12:10 PM
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For those interested, the alternator gave up the ghost. Only about $120 for that, but it's buried in the A4 so the bill was another G!

I guess that makes this Bianchi a $2000 bike now

Picking the car up in a bit, then getting some PB Blaster. The Phil Wood BB tool should arrive today or tomorrow, but I'll drip in some Blaster from the top this afternoon.

Found this while disassembling the bar/stem combo:



No J tucked away in there, tho

DD
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Old 07-30-19, 03:19 PM
  #58  
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Loaded for bear - time to get the post out, rid the chromed head lugs of spot rust and touch-up the blue details:



Wish me luck getting the post out!

DD
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Old 07-30-19, 03:27 PM
  #59  
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Suerte!
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Old 07-30-19, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Drillium Dude
For those interested, the alternator gave up the ghost. Only about $120 for that, but it's buried in the A4 so the bill was another G!

snip

No J tucked away in there, tho

DD
hopefully I will avoid that in the future.... but good to know as I have an A4 also (quattro, 6 speed, and neighbors who will take to to the place to get it chipped .....bad neighbors_
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Old 07-30-19, 06:55 PM
  #61  
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Dremel buffer wheel, Blue Magic, and lots of patience. Lots of patience. That's just to get rid of the green. Chrome should clean up with the same process.
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Old 07-30-19, 07:09 PM
  #62  
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Took the bike down to frame/fork/front derailleur/BB/stuck seatpost/gear levers today. I was able to get the chrome cleaned up nicely using brass wool and Softsoap. I used the same technique to remove a few remaining stubborn blemishes from the frame, then followed up with Scratch-X, though I was using 000 brass wool, so it didn't leave much in the way of scratches on the paint - and not at all on the chrome. Did notice that when the paint was removed from the "B" cutout in the lug via the cleaning process, the "B" was not really well-defined, so I did a little filing to make it deeper so that it would accept the infill paint when I re-did it. Seems like it will work out okay.







As you may notice, I left little tiny bits of surface rust in place at the edges - I didn't want it perfect since the paint isn't perfect. Does that make sense?

I then touched up the black cable guides on the top tube and added the blue paint I picked up today to the flutes on the crankset and infilled the engravings on the gear levers. The paint I found was an almost perfect match to the decals.

I held off doing the infill paint on the seatstay caps because I ran some PB Blaster into the seatpost flutes. I'll let it sit overnight, and if my Phil BB removal tool arrives tomorrow as it's supposed to, I will repeat the process from the other end. Hopefully that will take care of loosening up the post enough for me to get it out.

Here is the pic of the straight-bore of the rear brake bridge:



And here's a pic of the BB shell and stampings. Note there is no blue infill paint in the oval window on the shell or the tiny triangular cutout in the brake bridge reinforcement in the photo above:



I only just noticed the "7" in the upper left when I retouched the photo. The other numbers read: "4 . 81 . 467" - and check out that drip! Either from the factory or someone did a touch-up on the shell. Could really be either since this bike obviously saw low miles or was taken care of fastidiously until it ended up languishing in Mick's garage.

That's all for today.

DD

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Old 07-30-19, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by squirtdad
hopefully I will avoid that in the future.... but good to know as I have an A4 also (quattro, 6 speed, and neighbors who will take to to the place to get it chipped .....bad neighbors_
Just trade it in before you get to 195,000+ miles and you're golden

Maybe.

DD
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Old 07-30-19, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by RobbieTunes
Dremel buffer wheel, Blue Magic, and lots of patience. Lots of patience. That's just to get rid of the green. Chrome should clean up with the same process.
No matter how hard I tried today I couldn't get any of that strange green paint to come off, so I gave up and removed the rust from the chrome instead. It makes the green a little more tolerable, so there's that

DD
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Old 07-30-19, 11:50 PM
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Hey, guess what?





That's right - the seatpost's out! As I noted above, the post and saddle could be rotated side to side, but I couldn't get it to budge upwards. I put not-too-much blaster in about 1600 this afternoon. My plan was to use my Phil BB remover (which is supposed to arrive tomorrow) and give it a soak from the BB shell, too. Anyhow, about 30 minutes ago I decided, what the heck, see if it's loosened up any from this latest application. I didn't really believe anything would come of it, honestly - it sure felt pretty stuck. I put a rag on the stays and under the BB shell, set the frame on the carpet and stepped (in flip-flops) onto the stays. I then grasped the saddle with both hands and began to do to the twist. It took a bit of effort to get going, but suddenly it was sliding quickly from side to side with hardly any effort at all. Up I tugged and two seconds later it was out. Hot damn! Those BF techniques definitely work - in this case it was almost too easy.

Now I can add myself to the esteemed roll call of "Fought a Stuck Seatpost and Won"

Whomever put this bike together seems to have been averse to using grease. There was no indication it was used on the pedal threads, questionable if it was used at all for the seatpost installation, and there is only the lightest smear on the stem - tho I had no problem getting it out. Although I no longer need to service the BB to get the seatpost out, I do now have the tool coming and would like to tweak the driveline. I hope the builder put some grease on those threads.

It's going back together tomorrow. When my bar tape gets here I can complete the build and get it on the road.

DD

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Old 07-31-19, 05:03 PM
  #66  
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Today I finished disassembling the Somec. I took the blue Bullseye pulleys from the RD on the Somec and transplanted them to the Bianchi's RD. I did the infill paint on the BB shell and brake bridge reinforcement cutouts (I've seen them bare of highlight paint on other SCs and SLs from this time period, so it appears Bianchi skipped this step at the factory!), as well as the flutes on the crankarm and seatpost:





I took a few photos of the incoming with the outgoing for posterity:







I'm still on the fence about what to do about wheels. I have the clincher set from the Somec, but damn, I like the Phil hubs (ran a pair on the Sparrow years ago) and wouldn't be averse to giving tubulars a go again, at least for awhile on just one bike. But! The rear wheel is just a little off when it comes to dish:



This might be why it saw so few miles, you think? I have no idea why it's dished like this, but if it helped preserve this beauty, I'm glad.

Not sure yet about tires for the clincher wheelset, but I have a couple options. I've been leaning towards these:



DD
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Old 07-31-19, 11:31 PM
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I oopsed today while getting the bar and stem ready for taping. My tape is still in the mail, but I had my levers and spare hoods ready to put on them. I ran both the lever and hoods under hot water, though they were already nice and pliable. The first one went on tightly but surely and I may have been a little lackadaisical on the second because of that because I tore it - first I've done in years and years and years!

Well, the story isn't as sad as it could have been. You see, it wasn't a matching pair. I had one orphan Globe logo hood (the one that went on fine) and one orphan Shield logo hood (the one that ripped). I wanted to use them because they matched for color perfectly. Oh, well - I simply snatched one of the remaining Globe hoods from the one pair I had (creating a new orphan spare), took a great deal of care massaging that one on - and that was that. It could have been worse.









I plan on re-using the plugs that were in the original bars:



The bar/stem combo in particular is very, very nice. I wish to heck I could remember if I got it here, and if so from whom - or if I simply picked it up from some nameless, faceless Ebayer. I've had it for awhile now, I know that. What is rather odd is that I run Cinelli bars and stems on every single bike I have, and have for over a decade. Where did it come from? Why did I even have this? Why hadn't I gotten rid of it? Except for smalls and a few restoration bits, I don't keep a lot of spares - in fact I am down to only one spare wheelset - tubular, at that.

I found my grail bike, finally, this summer - without really looking for it. Was acquiring this bar and stem combo perhaps influenced by - serendipity (inasmuch as a 3ttt bar and stem combo was standard equipment on Bianchi's top two bikes at the time)?

No, I don't really believe that. But it makes a cool story

DD

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Old 08-01-19, 08:43 AM
  #68  
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Those bars and gooseneck look to fresh, choice! I'm wondering if it's the photo, could that be a pista stem? It looks really sharp angled.
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Old 08-01-19, 09:02 AM
  #69  
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DD, really enjoying your Bianchi resto. I had one of similar age a long time ago. Same fork crown, no chrome on the lugs and circled B’s on the seat stays and down tube lug. Mine also came with panto seat post and 3ttt stem.
You may be familiar already, being a fellow Navy man, but that Zumwalts price tag places that bike in San Diego (at least the bars) at some point. The Zumwalts had a shop on University Ave in North Park for many years.
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Old 08-01-19, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr. 66
Those bars and gooseneck look to fresh, choice! I'm wondering if it's the photo, could that be a pista stem? It looks really sharp angled.
Aren't they nice? Oh, and it's the photo: the bars are tilted forward, resting on the brake lever tips instead of the bottom flats of the bar. That's why the extension looks like it's got a crazy angle to it.

DD
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Old 08-01-19, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by velomateo
DD, really enjoying your Bianchi resto. I had one of similar age a long time ago. Same fork crown, no chrome on the lugs and circled B’s on the seat stays and down tube lug. Mine also came with panto seat post and 3ttt stem.
You may be familiar already, being a fellow Navy man, but that Zumwalts price tag places that bike in San Diego (at least the bars) at some point. The Zumwalts had a shop on University Ave in North Park for many years.
Thank you! I was looking at completed items on Ebay last night to see what's been going on with vintage Bianchi stuff and came across a neat frame with the same details as you outlined above - the color of the decals and circled B's and whatnot was red, but otherwise the same. I think these frames were all built similarly with SL and finished just a tad differently (more chrome on the top two) and of course outfitted with slightly different component levels.

I was not aware of Zumwalt's in San Diego. I only spent time there for basic training for about 7 months and found my go-to shop on Coronado Island. But I was wondering where the shop was that provided the bar, so thank you for providing that info

DD
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Old 08-01-19, 04:19 PM
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Well, I just got back from getting the rear wheel re-dished to 130 spacing. It still doesn't line up

I again stuck the Somec's rear wheel in there again and put on my reading glasses just to be sure; it, too, is off by about 1/8", maybe a little more. I think the cold-setting to 130 is off on one side of the triangle. I will have to get it re-set.

@gugie: does that sound right? If two wheels both set correctly don't line up under the brake bridge, one side of the triangle is out of kilter, correct? In both cases, the offset is to the non-drive side.

DD
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Old 08-01-19, 05:37 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by Drillium Dude
Well, I just got back from getting the rear wheel re-dished to 130 spacing. It still doesn't line up

I again stuck the Somec's rear wheel in there again and put on my reading glasses just to be sure; it, too, is off by about 1/8", maybe a little more. I think the cold-setting to 130 is off on one side of the triangle. I will have to get it re-set.

@gugie: does that sound right? If two wheels both set correctly don't line up under the brake bridge, one side of the triangle is out of kilter, correct? In both cases, the offset is to the non-drive side.

DD
You should be able to do a quick and dirty string test for this that should give you a better idea. Then a stop by the Atelier during your trip down for @gugie to straighten you out.
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Old 08-01-19, 05:55 PM
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Van is correct, a visit to the Atelier should be in your near future.
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Old 08-01-19, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by gugie
Van is correct, a visit to the Atelier should be in your near future.
Okay, I'll plan on it. I'll build up the bike completely and then bring it down with the intention of sorting the rear triangle, then riding the Historic Scenic Highway trail. Perfect

I'll hit you up PM or email for planning purposes.

DD
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