Seat Adjustment
#1
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Seat Adjustment
Should the nose be a little lower? I've been cycling 55 years and I am having seat problem now.
Both of my Prostate saddles are wore out and I am going to use my road Brooks with springs for a few weeks!
I cycle 25 miles on a closed route three days a week and lift three days and I'm 74 now!
This retired life is wonderful, I don't know how I ever had time to work!!
Both of my Prostate saddles are wore out and I am going to use my road Brooks with springs for a few weeks!
I cycle 25 miles on a closed route three days a week and lift three days and I'm 74 now!
This retired life is wonderful, I don't know how I ever had time to work!!
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Nose lower than level will push you forward and put more pressure on your hands, causing hand pain or numbness. Level or nose slightly up works better at getting your sit bones onto the wider part of the saddle and taking pressure off the sensitive parts.
#3
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Thanks, I remember lowering the nose one time and I keep sliding forward.
I have it level and I'll keep it that way
I have it level and I'll keep it that way
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A slight nose up as dsaul says might be worth a try, easy to do and one of the guys (of similar vintage and similar situation) I often ride with uses nose slightly up for relief.
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I am in a similar situation age-wise and find slightly nose-up better for me. Just bring the tool(s) needed to make the adjustment with you along on a ride, and make gradual changes; it should be clear when you hit the sweet spot.
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FWIW, nose down pitches you forward, putting too much weight on your hands.
I have always ridden nose slightly up, and when I was wrenching I surprised many customers who thought it looked wrong but gave them the best position...
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Last edited by rmfnla; 01-21-16 at 12:17 PM.
#7
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I ride B-17's and have found that the heel of the saddle should be a little higher than the center. The nose ends up looking too high.
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The 'right' angle for the seat is the balance between making you slide forwards, or slide backwards.
I find that for leather saddles, that tends to be more nose-up than saddles which are rigid all through.
Way to go on keeping active at 74! I've started this thing where I organize a group ride for my friends every year on my birthday where I ride (at least) my age. I did 50 last year, but I expect at some point I'm going to need to switch from miles to kilometers!
I find that for leather saddles, that tends to be more nose-up than saddles which are rigid all through.
Way to go on keeping active at 74! I've started this thing where I organize a group ride for my friends every year on my birthday where I ride (at least) my age. I did 50 last year, but I expect at some point I'm going to need to switch from miles to kilometers!
#9
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Moving the saddle ( & your center of mass) back, also removes a bit of weight from your hands
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Nose a bit up, usually 1/8" above level as a starting point, road saddle at least works best for most folk. I tend to more. Riding 55 years, tho, I'd think you should already have a decent handle on your preferred positioning.
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You didn't say which Brooks sprung saddle, but if it's a Flyer or B-67 with springs only in the rear, I'd start with the saddle level, keeping in mind that that your body weight will depress the rear a little (or a lot, depending on how you ride and how big you are). Definitely don't make it nose-down, however, for the reasons cited in previous posts.
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You didn't say which Brooks sprung saddle, but if it's a Flyer or B-67 with springs only in the rear, I'd start with the saddle level, keeping in mind that that your body weight will depress the rear a little (or a lot, depending on how you ride and how big you are). Definitely don't make it nose-down, however, for the reasons cited in previous posts.
Those springs are pretty stout; I don't notice them depressing even when they are doing their job...
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#13
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Learn something new every day "sometimes"
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+1 on slightly up. I ride with bar tops 10 cm below the saddle top and use flat saddles. For those who with less drop and/or use saddles curved front to back, things may be different.
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#16
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You bust your butt?
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I ride B-17 comfortably with nose slightly up. Set up my sprung B-67 same way and it put pressure in the wrong area. Changed it to level or very slightly nose down and it's much better. I also weigh 250+ and this is on a more upright, townie type of set up, meaning the springs get a bit of a workout.
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●