DudeMan1981

Has anyone else had problems/complications with the rear cog? My chaindrive on my new '08 is variably loose and tight during each revolution. I have disassembled the chaindrive and verified that the pedals, crank, and sprocket run smoothly. I have taken measurements and verified that the chainline is totally straight. That leaves me with the cheap rear cog. It seems to be wiggly... I am considering a White Industries freewheel cog (because of the sealed bearings) and also adding a fixed gear. Does anyone have an opinon or advise?

xJAHx

There is always some degree of variably loose and tight in all drive trains. Typically, I run my San Jose fixed and associate the change in tension with an imperfect chainring (not 100% round).

As for the WB ENO freewheel, I am using three in the herd, and I have no complaints. Then again, I have no real complaints about the much cheaper shimano freewheels either. The ENO is quite load, which kind of kills the quiet buzz.

JAH

1150A

How does the San Jose compare to something like the IRO Rob Roy, or Surly Cross Check? I will be running a flip flop hub, and would eventually like to race single speed.

I've read that Surly's are not known as "racing" frames, but how about the Bianchi and IRO?

the pope

You can race anything that abides by the rules of the race. None of the three are very high-end, but are you?

If you want something lighter, maybe help your finishing spot or more likely to score style points then there are a ton of SS singlespeed makers that will take your money. Or Eno an off the shelf higher-end bike.

Search around and see what you need to spend to get the bike you want.

Nothing wrong with starting with a San Jose, though.

nowheels

Having now had all three of the bikes (Now riding a Rob Roy) you are mentioning.... I would say that the Rob Roy would be the best racing frame. The ride of the San Jose compares well to the Rob Roy as far as the ride, but the Rob Roy is a bit more stable going over junk. The cross check ....... more of an all around bike for my money.

flargle

Even if the chainring is perfectly round, it is difficult to mount it onto the crank spider so that it is perfectly centered. There is a method for centering the chainring, it requires a certain knack, but works:
https://sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html#tension

Even then it is impossible to get perfectly uniform chain tension. The best way IMO is to set chain tension so that it is ever so slack at the tightest point. Then you get a nice quiet drivetrain, and if your chainline is correct, you won't ever drop the chain. Of course, that's provided your bottom bracket, rear hub, sprocket, and crank all are in good repair and without any slop in the bearings.

flargle

None of the three frames are the lightest in the world. As far as raceability, however, all are comparable. It all depends on how you set them up and, especially, what sort of wheels and tires you use on them.

nowheels

Everything is subjective.......

Crack Monkey

Hey gang,

Does anybody know how to service (replace?) the bearings in the stock wheels? Mine are getting pretty grindy and I don't see any obvious way to get the cartridge out of the hub shell.

(Yes, the wheels are cheap, and I'll likely upgrade eventually, but will still want these to be functional)

Lithuania

mine didnt come with cartridge bearings

nickelbus

There is one one CL at $475 I am thinking of pulling the trigger on...

Crack Monkey

What year is yours? Maybe I'm calling them the wrong thing. The bearings are in an enclosed/sealed thing, unlike all my Shimano hubs, where the bearings are loose once axle is pulled out. On these hubs, I can't even pull the axle out.

Lithuania

mine are loose bearings and i believe its the first year model with the ****ty 120mm hub spaced to 130. pain in the ass

NormanF

I have 42mm slicks on mine. Swapped the CX tires for road slicks that were faster on the road. So far so good!

somepetalhead

going zombie hunting with this post!

bring back the dead!


I have 2 questions for Actual San Jose owners...

1. what cranks work and which wont (is there something i have to look at specially) or will my paul track cranks and work with a appropriate BB? or do i need to just hunt down another crank.

2. what fork options do you have and why are you using it... also is there a better option for fork that people bypass for cost?

thanks