For the love of English 3 speeds...
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if anyone was interested.
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Thank you gster for the memories, the little carbide pellets certainly were evil smelling. I think they were made of calcium and became acetalene when the droplets of water dripped down from the water chamber. This takes me back to the 1940's with the cycling club. Jim.
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Thank you gster for the memories, the little carbide pellets certainly were evil smelling. I think they were made of calcium and became acetalene when the droplets of water dripped down from the water chamber. This takes me back to the 1940's with the cycling club. Jim.
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It can be a lot of work selling parts if you have to research what's in your inventory. Tools are always in demand. If you take your time, introduce yourself and make 10 posts, you'll be able to show some pics and get informed opinions. If you give a location, there could be someone ready and willing to help you.
I do have a good assortment of tools, not the least of which is a Park 2-bike workstand, the professional one with the heavy steel plate. I already have one or else I'd keep it. This one is a true vintage item with a cast tool tray. I'll be keeping some of the tools for myself and sending some to my son, but after that we'll see what's left. Anything specific to 3-speeds or Bendix work will likely go up for sale.
Interesting thought, seeing if someone wants to wade in with me! I'll keep it in mind.
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Thanks! I'll keep posting and discussing for sure. Don't want to bend any rules! (I used to be a moderator on another forum.) In the meantime I'll take inventory. I think the most fun thing I got was an assortment of bike bells; apparently my uncle had a thing for them. All kinds of nutty stuff like baseballs, eyeballs(!), and whatnot.
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Interesting
Listed on Kijiji Toronto as a 1926 Hercules 2 speed....
Seller is asking $650.00
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details...dId=1475150198
Listed on Kijiji Toronto as a 1926 Hercules 2 speed....
Seller is asking $650.00
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details...dId=1475150198
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Any "love" for Canadian 5 speeds here LOL? It "looks" British, it has 3 speeds (plus 2) and Canada is a member of the Commonwealth so......
I was given a Baycrest Hurricane that I believe is from the 1970's. It's a 23 inch men's lugged frame, most certainly HiTen, with stamped dropouts, not a single braze on and 26 inch (590) wheels. The only reason I'm posting it here is because the mods I was going to make to my '77 Raleigh LTD 3 I posted several weeks ago are going to be made to this poor old rusty lump instead and I will keep the LTD close to original. The rust covered fenders are totally straight and dent free, they will get roughed up and painted to match the frame. I'll switch it over to 26 inch MTB (559) wheels and I have several vintage sets of long reach caliper brakes that should work. I'll replace the crappy nylon cable guides with vintage Suntour clamp on guides and try to keep it as vintage looking as possible.
I was given a Baycrest Hurricane that I believe is from the 1970's. It's a 23 inch men's lugged frame, most certainly HiTen, with stamped dropouts, not a single braze on and 26 inch (590) wheels. The only reason I'm posting it here is because the mods I was going to make to my '77 Raleigh LTD 3 I posted several weeks ago are going to be made to this poor old rusty lump instead and I will keep the LTD close to original. The rust covered fenders are totally straight and dent free, they will get roughed up and painted to match the frame. I'll switch it over to 26 inch MTB (559) wheels and I have several vintage sets of long reach caliper brakes that should work. I'll replace the crappy nylon cable guides with vintage Suntour clamp on guides and try to keep it as vintage looking as possible.
Probably made in Japan.
Hey, i just turned an Eatons Villager into an S/A 3 speed for a friend and it turned out quite nice.
Nothing special but presentable.
The frame came from the trash (I suspect Bridgestone) and
I had most parts on hand and didn't spend much
New chain and pads and a couple pf cables.
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These were built for the Hudson's Bay department store chain (The Bay).
Probably made in Japan.
Hey, i just turned an Eatons Villager into an S/A 3 speed for a friend and it turned out quite nice.
Nothing special but presentable.
The frame came from the trash (I suspect Bridgestone) and
I had most parts on hand and didn't spend much
New chain and pads and a couple pf cables.
Probably made in Japan.
Hey, i just turned an Eatons Villager into an S/A 3 speed for a friend and it turned out quite nice.
Nothing special but presentable.
The frame came from the trash (I suspect Bridgestone) and
I had most parts on hand and didn't spend much
New chain and pads and a couple pf cables.
Just picked the Baycrest up a little bit ago, I didn't have room for it Saturday. I hadn't really looked it over, I just heard "free" and figured why not? Paint is pretty rough as are the top and down tube decals, but I think most of the chrome will clean up fairly well, I'll give it a shot anyway. I tweaked the front fender loading it but not too bad, I can make it right again. It's a chunk though, that's for sure, the only aluminum I can see is the SR stem and the Esge kickstand, I'll have to do something about that LOL. I won't get to it until next year so a lot could change as far as my intentions. It was too dark by the time I got home to take a better picture, I'll try to get one tomorrow after work.
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I like it.
Just picked the Baycrest up a little bit ago, I didn't have room for it Saturday. I hadn't really looked it over, I just heard "free" and figured why not? Paint is pretty rough as are the top and down tube decals, but I think most of the chrome will clean up fairly well, I'll give it a shot anyway. I tweaked the front fender loading it but not too bad, I can make it right again. It's a chunk though, that's for sure, the only aluminum I can see is the SR stem and the Esge kickstand, I'll have to do something about that LOL. I won't get to it until next year so a lot could change as far as my intentions. It was too dark by the time I got home to take a better picture, I'll try to get one tomorrow after work.
Just picked the Baycrest up a little bit ago, I didn't have room for it Saturday. I hadn't really looked it over, I just heard "free" and figured why not? Paint is pretty rough as are the top and down tube decals, but I think most of the chrome will clean up fairly well, I'll give it a shot anyway. I tweaked the front fender loading it but not too bad, I can make it right again. It's a chunk though, that's for sure, the only aluminum I can see is the SR stem and the Esge kickstand, I'll have to do something about that LOL. I won't get to it until next year so a lot could change as far as my intentions. It was too dark by the time I got home to take a better picture, I'll try to get one tomorrow after work.
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Yeah, I suspect I may have paid too much for this one LOL. Nah, it's not "that" bad, I can make something out of it with what I have on hand. It probably still won't be worth my initial purchase price but I'll have fun.
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Thank you gster for the memories, the little carbide pellets certainly were evil smelling. I think they were made of calcium and became acetalene when the droplets of water dripped down from the water chamber. This takes me back to the 1940's with the cycling club. Jim.
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Here are two 3 speeds in Pasadena, MD. The seller is asking $100 for both. It looks as if the step-through has a bent fork though.
https://annapolis.craigslist.org/bik...023576725.html
https://annapolis.craigslist.org/bik...023576725.html
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SEARS used Puch/Steyr.
Last edited by curbtender; 12-06-19 at 10:42 AM.
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Took a good look at the Baycrest today, it says "MADE in CANADA" on the seat tube. DANG it's heavy and the frame lugs have very crude weld seams down the middle of them, I think they're more cosmetic than structural. I'm not going to put much time or money into this one. I may just pull the SR stem and Esge kickstand and set the rest on the curb.
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I don't have any Proofide but I rubbed it down with a blend of goose fat and beeswax and will gingerly ride it next spring.
Still no sunshine today but I snapped these before I took it down to the basement.
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Darn, looks like somebody hammered the drive side cotter and gave up on removing it. If this is a problem you've not experienced before, my advise is not to even start to remove it unless you have a sharp fine point center punch and a sharp drill set. Dull or inadequate tools will make a mess of things.
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Darn, looks like somebody hammered the drive side cotter and gave up on removing it. If this is a problem you've not experienced before, my advise is not to even start to remove it unless you have a sharp fine point center punch and a sharp drill set. Dull or inadequate tools will make a mess of things.
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Took a good look at the Baycrest today, it says "MADE in CANADA" on the seat tube. DANG it's heavy and the frame lugs have very crude weld seams down the middle of them, I think they're more cosmetic than structural. I'm not going to put much time or money into this one. I may just pull the SR stem and Esge kickstand and set the rest on the curb.
Looking around one day, with some free time I decided to put a quick "Bitsa" together...
The recipient was very pleased.
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I don't know about this saddle, up close there seems to some dry rot around the rivets.
I don't have any Proofide but I rubbed it down with a blend of goose fat and beeswax and will gingerly ride it next spring.
Still no sunshine today but I snapped these before I took it down to the basement.
I don't have any Proofide but I rubbed it down with a blend of goose fat and beeswax and will gingerly ride it next spring.
Still no sunshine today but I snapped these before I took it down to the basement.
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It is good that they stopped, but in my experience once the threaded section starts to bend, a press will only bend it more. Then, even if it does come loose, it won't fit out the hole past the spindle.I think it would be best to tape up the crank arm and hack saw off the bent section of the cotter. I suppose it's not necessary, but I like to center punch the new end and start with a small drill and work up to bigger drill so the top of the cotter has a counter sink that will hold the punch so it won't slip off and mar the crank arm. The counter sink also helps direct the force of the hammer blows in the direction it's needed. The important part is that I support the crank arm as I drive the cotter. Luckily I have a cement floor in my cellar. I put the bike in the stand, up off the tires. Then I fit a 2x4 with a hole drilled in the end grain to clear the cotter between the hard floor and the crank arm. Then I drive the cotter out with a hefty punch and hammer. So far, this has always worked for me, but I have seen other posts here where people had to drill all the way through to weaken the cotter enough to be able to drive it out. Good luck.
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