V brakepad is too high
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V brakepad is too high
So i have a issue with my v brakes.they are fairly new.but the problem is on the rear wheel on the right side of the brakes its too high.the left side i can adjust and move great but the right side even on the lowest height it is too high up near the rim.the wheel is in good true also so i guess i can rule that out.much help would be appreciated!!
#3
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I have found different brakes can adjust further down , slot variation , + frame-post variation..
A lower cost Tektro worked, where nicer otherwise , TRP did not...
A lower cost Tektro worked, where nicer otherwise , TRP did not...
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Maybe it's just the perspective of the photo, but that brake arm looks like it's angled out too much.
Can you rearrange the spacers on the pad post to get the pad closer to the brake arm? That might make the pad lower when it contacts the rim.
Can you rearrange the spacers on the pad post to get the pad closer to the brake arm? That might make the pad lower when it contacts the rim.
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To give some clarity to the suggestion for the OP -
Each pad should have five washers: one thin flat washer that goes directly under the 'nut' you tighten to fix the pad in place, two concave washers - a thick one and a thin one (you have the thickone closer to the rim side of the pad in the pictures) and two convex washers (these go on either side of the brake arm to form a ball around which the concave washers can move to allow adjustment of the pads. If you take the pad off the arm you will have a handful of these washers (or a floor covered in them), and they should go on in the following sequence:
Slide the thin concave washer on to brake pad post
Slide one convex washer onto brake pad post so it nests in the concave washer
Put brake pad post through Vbrake arm and hold in place
Put on the other convex washer, round side out
Put the thick concave washer over the convex washer
Put on the thin flat washer
Thread the nut onto the post to hold the whole thing together.
This should allow the arm to move in farther and make the brake easier to adjust.
But like I said before - the first step is to ensure the wheel is fully seated in the dropouts... many an hour has been spent fruitlessly trying to get brakes adjusted, only to find later that the wheel isn't straight in the frame or fork, so all that effort is wasted.
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I think the industry switch to thru-axle type dropouts will make this more rare.