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My E+ review

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My E+ review

Old 04-12-19, 05:17 PM
  #551  
powell
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Monte
I deleted my post asking you to show picture of sense board with damage/burned/
just noticed -
the first picture you attached above shows just that - burned Q5 transistor on BMS control board,
it is obvious that somebody touched accidently with minus battery lead while installing this board .
no way such a low power transistor would evaporate burn like that during normal operation.
where would the big current come from to destroy tiny circuit?
simply this Q5 acted like fuse on short circuit.

Last edited by powell; 04-12-19 at 08:33 PM.
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Old 04-15-19, 01:33 AM
  #552  
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Monte,

Wrandry is right the pins can be removed from the plastic connector housing without cutting the wires. Use the tip of an exacto knife to gently pry up the plastic spring that keeps the pins in place. The wire with the pin should slide out. Once out of the hub, check that the barb on metal connector isn't pushed in. Slide it back in the housing and the plastic spring against the barb will keep it in place.


When you were here I told you that upper board you brought was fried, I also mentioned it post #523 . I knew you had another board or 2. Sorry you got stuck getting those boards out of the hub. You don't give up and that's how you learn.


FYI, my E+ with the Lithium batteries is working beautifully but I may sell it. I ran across some 36V 14.5ah rear rack batteries (10s5p) very cheap. I'll probably use one of those when I sell. I think tool batteries is a better approach but they aren't free and most buyers would like a more standard ebike battery.
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Old 04-20-19, 01:36 PM
  #553  
Easter3
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Originally Posted by wrandyr View Post
Monte, it looks like you are using tool batteries like Firedog. What are you using for connectors at each battery?
Jan ordered this connection so I would have one less thing to have to fabricate.


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Old 04-20-19, 03:10 PM
  #554  
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I am reminded of your direction to be aware of a defective board in #523message . I used it in performing an operational test of my assembly. I accidentally fumbled the upper and lower disc and when I caught it, I assumed the light flash that I saw was from the in-line fuse blowing that you insisted that I add.(thanks) I re-assembled the boards with a good upper board from my second unit. I had to swap in another sense board. I got my display to light up.


in a prior assembly test and had power but now I don't have power to the wheel. I haven't changed anything since I had a previous successful operational test but now I can't get power. I am not really sure how to begin diagnostics of the power absence but I am almost there.....
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Old 05-19-19, 10:48 AM
  #555  
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Originally Posted by wrandyr View Post
Yah....I've been watching that listing for awhile, when they were asking around $599. I was told that the "owner" would not take less than $450. So.....

Then they reduced the starting price to $299, or "offer". So, I offered $200 since they didn't have an original charger. They accepted, saying they have had this E+ for around 2 yrs, and were "in it" @ $250.

Turns out, they in fact had the correct E+ charger, and were attempting to charge from the rear "B" terminal. :-)

I put the E+ on the charger for 4 hrs, and then again for another 4 hrs. Nothing, as it appears it's been setting to long without a charge. Dam!

Time to take the front hub apart & attempt individual charging on each 5 cell pack?

Though it makes much more sense to go lithium, by using the stock battery BMS, right?



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Old 05-19-19, 10:52 AM
  #556  
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Don't stop.....keep going as I've got TWO E+'s that are in need of fresh cell replacements and would like a lower cost solution! :-)
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Old 05-19-19, 07:36 PM
  #557  
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You don't have to charge each pack separately. You can charge them all at once, and you only have to get them over 4 or 5 volts, then the regular charger will work. Since the sellers were riding it around recently, it shouldn't take much. The hard part is disconnecting the BMS board and connecting a charger directly to the cells. As Powell has noted, you don't want any "bouncing", or messy connects/disconnects. I think the the safest way is to pull the whole battery assembly completely out of the hub housing, so you can get at the fuse on the back. It is much easier to get at the screws on the fuse than the screws that connect the cells to the BMS board.

I'm glad the bike went to someone on thist list-congratulations!
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Old 05-19-19, 09:23 PM
  #558  
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A good buy. Congratulations.

Turns out, they in fact had the correct E+ charger
I sold them that charger (with the E+ manual included) after the their first Ebay listing. I knew I would never go back to NiMH.

You should be able to recover the use of the NiMH cells, but if not, it's pretty easy( thanks to the work of Powell) to remove the charge boards from the front hub and mount into a enclosure. Then you can use any 36v Lithium battery and a standard front wheel and add disc brakes. If you looking to save, I find 18V tool batteries are best. Plenty of amps for the E+ The mount is easy to make or I can sell you one. There are also tons 36v batteries from impounded rental ebike showing up for sale. They are big, so rear rack mount, but have lot of AH and usually little use. They work fine, except if you push too hard on the hills. You have to live with power 7 or less, since their BMS won't deliver 1000W but that is not that big a deal. You can still do 28mph on the flat.
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Old 05-20-19, 06:57 AM
  #559  
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Kauakit,
congratulation on getting another EPLUS.
the question is:
what exactey EPLUS version you got????
is it programmed to 750W or 1000W - big question.
I advice you to contact Rick Ruggiero maybe when you tell him serial numbers he would be able to tell you???
I was interested but gave up when I didnt know what I was buying.
but once you start and mange to power up this EPLUS you would figure it out if you have 1000W to compare with.
I never ridden , never seen 750W software version.

Last edited by powell; 05-20-19 at 02:55 PM.
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Old 05-20-19, 07:19 AM
  #560  
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disconnecting main battery terminals from BMS power board for direct connect to charger is special operation - do not do it when you are tired.
first thing - you MUST wrap Allen key with tape except very end of it.
yes you can remove fuse first but it is risky if your hands shake and you have to connect it back - more risk.
all this is very individual - messy and speedy type of person can easly destroy BMS processing/control board in miliseconds.
Another way I can think of is to masking tape everything around battery terminals on power board .

Last edited by powell; 05-20-19 at 03:01 PM.
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Old 05-21-19, 02:16 PM
  #561  
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Powell is right-Think through what you are going to do before you get into it. I cut a cover for the BMS board out of a plastic milk jug to help prevent anything from falling onto the board while power was still present. I also put jumpers across the connection point until I had the screws out, then put a plastic shim between the terminal contact surfaces. Pulling off the jumpers allowed a clean disconnect at that point. The hard part is that there isn't much room to place a jumper.
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Old 05-21-19, 02:26 PM
  #562  
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If he gets the battery working, all you have to do is see if the motor will stay when the speed goes over 20MPH. The 750watt version will cut out. I suspect that is the only difference.
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Old 05-31-19, 03:32 PM
  #563  
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actual millage May27, 2019
Hi all
I want to update you on my EPLUS performance .
Odometer on my EPLUS shows 30 749 kilometers.
I reached this millage on 2 different Lithium batteries.
As you can see on CycleAnalist only 85 charging cycles for my new Chevy Volt cell battery pack.
Now I use battery pack made of Chevy Volt cells in 11S2P configuration /2 parallel ,11in series/.
motor and all drive is still my original EPLUS drive.
I want to stress - kind of battery does not matter for longevity of this EPLUS drive.
as we know EPLUS has built in several protections - overtemp. /no need to touch motor after hill climbing / EPLUS motor will NOT overheat/ , over voltage protect., overcurrent protect. etc.

Eplus drive absolutely stands out from others ebike drives in many aspects like incredible 9 power levels and 9 regen levels

removed rear wheel , checked for any free play on bearings - nothing at all.
Japan bearings -quality.
it does not mean my EPLUS had been without problems.
one of them are display switches.
some other problems were caused by my stupidity - like disconnecting and connecting power wires or communication cables to the motor while system powered - very bad idea, inverter inside motor has quite large capacitors which cause voltage spikes when wires connect. So depower before connecting/disconnecting wires.
Water ingress is another issue for display/contr. switches. Tactile switches of disp. are not so great quality and power switch tactile switch should be the highest quality /gold plated contacts/, but it is not.
EPLUS

Last edited by powell; 06-01-19 at 02:38 PM.
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Old 06-11-19, 10:24 AM
  #564  
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Now it is clear that Monte , Easter gave up on converting their EPLUS into Lithium powered EPLUS.
I still hope she would sell me some electronics.
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Old 06-13-19, 11:33 PM
  #565  
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It lives again!!!

Originally Posted by Firedog91902 View Post
A good buy. Congratulations.

I sold them that charger (with the E+ manual included) after the their first Ebay listing. I knew I would never go back to NiMH.

You should be able to recover the use of the NiMH cells, but if not, it's pretty easy( thanks to the work of Powell) to remove the charge boards from the front hub and mount into a enclosure. Then you can use any 36v Lithium battery and a standard front wheel and add disc brakes. If you looking to save, I find 18V tool batteries are best. Plenty of amps for the E+ The mount is easy to make or I can sell you one. There are also tons 36v batteries from impounded rental ebike showing up for sale. They are big, so rear rack mount, but have lot of AH and usually little use. They work fine, except if you push too hard on the hills. You have to live with power 7 or less, since their BMS won't deliver 1000W but that is not that big a deal. You can still do 28mph on the flat.
Again....TY for selling the eBay seller your charger. I put it to good use.

After attemping to use the stock charger on the front hub 2X's....it just sat to long, and the cells were below the LVC & there was nothing, no voltage. So, I removed the wheel & battery side case & used a cheapy 12v to charge each 5 cell pack to 5.5v's while keeping a close eye on it after disconnecting the + & - screws & putting cardboard strips between. And yes I used electrical tape on the allen wrench & used electrical tape below the screws to cover in case they dropped. I put it back together, and IT'S ALIVE! Though it's a shame it's the 750watt/20mph version! It works well enough to run the dogs, and it was fun to also compare it's performance it to an original 750watt/19.5mph Tidalforce.

I'll be letting one of the women folk ride it for range, and will then give an update.

Thanks for the suggestions. It worked.

Last edited by kauaikit; 06-13-19 at 11:41 PM.
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