Dented head tube fix.
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Dented head tube fix.
I won't bore you with the whole story but I had a NOS tandem frame with a dented head tube from shipping damage that I managed to salvage. I found a hardened steel ironworker's drift punch that had an OD just a few thousands smaller than the ID of the head tube, 1-5/16" to be exact. I drove it slowly though about 4 times to work the dent out. It was close but not quite there. I went through my tool box and found an old Craftsman 1 inch 1/2" drive socket that had an OD the same as the collar on the bearing cup from a 1-1/8" headset and put it on an old extension backwards, I greased it up and then tapped it into the tube, then back out, I did this 3 times. I then pressed the headset cups in both ends and measured the cup in the reworked end several times in the ID of the collar, the ID of the outer flange and the OD of the outer flange. It was round within .0015", I'm calling that good enough.
I had $0.00 in the frame since the seller sent me a replacement and told me to scrap this one and I paid $17.95 for the ironworker's drift punch on Ebay, they retail for about $100 new. I think that was a fair return on my investment.
Before pics:
After:
...and the "implements of resurrection":
I had $0.00 in the frame since the seller sent me a replacement and told me to scrap this one and I paid $17.95 for the ironworker's drift punch on Ebay, they retail for about $100 new. I think that was a fair return on my investment.
Before pics:
After:
...and the "implements of resurrection":
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When you said "dented" I thought you you were being finicky; then I saw the first photo. Which company shipped the package, and was it packed properly? That was a good save - you have skills.
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USPS, you know, "the wrecking crew" and it was still in the factory sealed box from Raleigh's frame manufacturer. Packed properly? It had some white cardstock taped loosely around the frame tubes and some bubble wrap around the headset, bottom brackets and dropouts. That was IT! Nothing to hold it in place in the box, it was just rattling around like a basketball in a box car. Kudeaus to the Ebay seller though, I had a tracking number on the replacement frame within an hour of contacting him.
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What are you going to do with the duplicate?
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Good save! I had no idea those old drift pins had any value at all. I have a bucket full of them of different types in a back corner of the shop from back in the day.
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I've used the conical Campagnolo 733/14 "centraliser sleeve" from my headset press to fix damage like that. Tap it into the head tube to force out the dent:
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Good save, Murray. When I was a wee lad just learning the trade, those are the types of repairs I marveled, delivered my an old mick (like me now), named Seamus. I've seen him rework old frames with nothing but his bare hands, eyeball stuff that I'd need rulers and micrometers to do, and make potato-chip wheels straight and true. You done good because with steel, sometimes the best ways are the old ways.
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Awesome save! Could've been quite a bit more difficult had the head badge been riveted.
BFH and punches will really take you places. I need to look into getting a drift punch, out of all I have, that's not one of them.
BFH and punches will really take you places. I need to look into getting a drift punch, out of all I have, that's not one of them.
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To be sure. I would have removed the head badge but I was glad I didn't have to. I'm not sure how many noticed but that dent actually went up behind the head badge about an inch. When I saw the gap at the bottom of the badge close I knew I was on the home stretch.
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Oh my goodness, how many times have I used a taper punch to round out a damaged hole. There is, however, one problem...
Stretching a hole into shape can, and often does, stretch the diameter of the hole. It might be a good idea to measure the lower fit and the upper fit, them compare the two. Were I presented with the situation, I would have tried to massage the tube back into shape from the outside.
Stretching a hole into shape can, and often does, stretch the diameter of the hole. It might be a good idea to measure the lower fit and the upper fit, them compare the two. Were I presented with the situation, I would have tried to massage the tube back into shape from the outside.
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I have the parts to build this one too by stripping our old tandem. That was the plan in the first place but I got "upgraditis" and ended up buying new just about everything. I'm toying with the idea of building this one as a cargo bike by making a rack system that replaces the stoker but I haven't decided yet. The original Northwoods tandem has a high top bar in the stoker position which makes it hard for my wife to get on and off of plus it uses a frame mounted chain tensioner for the timing chain which never seems to stay in alignment and the chain jumps off at all the wrong times. It's not worth anything as a complete bike so I might as well pick it clean and build both Raleighs. The Raleigh frames are stiffer, have a lower top bar and use eccentric front bottom brackets to put tension on the timing chain. I was shocked at how much lateral flex there is on a tandem, the Northwoods wasn't bouncy up and down but the side to side rock when pedaling was quite noticeable when climbing, especially for the stoker.
This is the old one, it was fun but had definite short comings.
This is the old one, it was fun but had definite short comings.
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Oh my goodness, how many times have I used a taper punch to round out a damaged hole. There is, however, one problem...
Stretching a hole into shape can, and often does, stretch the diameter of the hole. It might be a good idea to measure the lower fit and the upper fit, them compare the two. Were I presented with the situation, I would have tried to massage the tube back into shape from the outside.
Stretching a hole into shape can, and often does, stretch the diameter of the hole. It might be a good idea to measure the lower fit and the upper fit, them compare the two. Were I presented with the situation, I would have tried to massage the tube back into shape from the outside.
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Aha! Found the drift pin. Seller has several more left. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F391612057764
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I don't actually have a dented head tube, but I'm working to prevent having a dented head tube.
I need to use drive screws to reattach a head badge, so my plan is to find a socket of the proper diameter to slide into the head tube up to but not covering the hole. That should give enough support that I can tap the drive screw in without denting the head tube.
If my tool box allows it, I'll slide two sockets in, one from the top and one from the bottom. The two holes are across from each other so that would be ideal.
If anyone needs them, I will have approximately 198 extra drive screws, size 0 and 00 from McMaster-Carr. I'd be happy to send a few to anyone that wants to reattach a headbadge. Yes, I ordered 100 each of 0 and 00, I just wanted to have the correct size without mucking around returning the wrong size and ordering the correct size. A few extra won't hurt anything and I might be able to help out another inmate here.
I need to use drive screws to reattach a head badge, so my plan is to find a socket of the proper diameter to slide into the head tube up to but not covering the hole. That should give enough support that I can tap the drive screw in without denting the head tube.
If my tool box allows it, I'll slide two sockets in, one from the top and one from the bottom. The two holes are across from each other so that would be ideal.
If anyone needs them, I will have approximately 198 extra drive screws, size 0 and 00 from McMaster-Carr. I'd be happy to send a few to anyone that wants to reattach a headbadge. Yes, I ordered 100 each of 0 and 00, I just wanted to have the correct size without mucking around returning the wrong size and ordering the correct size. A few extra won't hurt anything and I might be able to help out another inmate here.
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I don't actually have a dented head tube, but I'm working to prevent having a dented head tube.
I need to use drive screws to reattach a head badge, so my plan is to find a socket of the proper diameter to slide into the head tube up to but not covering the hole. That should give enough support that I can tap the drive screw in without denting the head tube.
If my tool box allows it, I'll slide two sockets in, one from the top and one from the bottom. The two holes are across from each other so that would be ideal.
If anyone needs them, I will have approximately 198 extra drive screws, size 0 and 00 from McMaster-Carr. I'd be happy to send a few to anyone that wants to reattach a headbadge. Yes, I ordered 100 each of 0 and 00, I just wanted to have the correct size without mucking around returning the wrong size and ordering the correct size. A few extra won't hurt anything and I might be able to help out another inmate here.
I need to use drive screws to reattach a head badge, so my plan is to find a socket of the proper diameter to slide into the head tube up to but not covering the hole. That should give enough support that I can tap the drive screw in without denting the head tube.
If my tool box allows it, I'll slide two sockets in, one from the top and one from the bottom. The two holes are across from each other so that would be ideal.
If anyone needs them, I will have approximately 198 extra drive screws, size 0 and 00 from McMaster-Carr. I'd be happy to send a few to anyone that wants to reattach a headbadge. Yes, I ordered 100 each of 0 and 00, I just wanted to have the correct size without mucking around returning the wrong size and ordering the correct size. A few extra won't hurt anything and I might be able to help out another inmate here.
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Once I felt I was "there" I measured both ends of the tube when I was done, I got identical measurements and both ends are round within .0015". I just measured the undamaged frame, it's only round within .0025". I've been in QC for 40 years, a good part of it as a machine tool inspector so I'm pretty confident in those numbers.
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