Looking for 7speed Hyperglide freehub to fit a Shimano 105 - 126mm hub
#1
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Looking for 7speed Hyperglide freehub to fit a Shimano 105 - 126mm hub
As the title says, looking for 7speed Hyperglide freehub to fit a Shimano 105 - 126mm hub. I am having difficult time tacking one down. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
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I'll look around here in the shop, there must be at least one out of all the hubs in the box. Smiles, MH
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I think I can help. Your 105 "should" be an FH-1055 with a 7 speed UG/HG freehub body. The freehub body number is Y32E98020.
That freehub was also used on a FH-M62 and FH-M650 (DX).
You can probably use a Y32Y98010 off of an FH-6401 (600/Ultegra) or FH-5001 (Sante).
I went from 7spd to 8 spd on my DX FH-650 by swapping the freehub body with one off a 6401 freehub.
Best route is to buy a complete hub, (eBay), if possible, and move everything over. This is more important if you don't go with the original freehub. Loose Screws Bicycle Parts still has NOS 6401, 5000, and MT62 axle assemblies with cones.
Because you need to stay at 126mm OLD, you will need a thin shoulder flange 7 speed freehub body. The one on the lefty is a 7 speed thick flange. The one in the middle is your freehub body.
John
That freehub was also used on a FH-M62 and FH-M650 (DX).
You can probably use a Y32Y98010 off of an FH-6401 (600/Ultegra) or FH-5001 (Sante).
I went from 7spd to 8 spd on my DX FH-650 by swapping the freehub body with one off a 6401 freehub.
Best route is to buy a complete hub, (eBay), if possible, and move everything over. This is more important if you don't go with the original freehub. Loose Screws Bicycle Parts still has NOS 6401, 5000, and MT62 axle assemblies with cones.
Because you need to stay at 126mm OLD, you will need a thin shoulder flange 7 speed freehub body. The one on the lefty is a 7 speed thick flange. The one in the middle is your freehub body.
John
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I think that you "may" be able to run a freehub body from an RSX 7 speed (HG "C" only). It would take some research to make sure it is a thin flange. I haven't done the swap. Depending on how badly you want a 7 speed and willing to take a chance, there is an NOS set (F+R) on eBay. It isn't cheap, but it is not as much as an 105SC (1055) NOS set that is also listed.
Good luck.
John
Good luck.
John
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#7
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I think I can help. Your 105 "should" be an FH-1055 with a 7 speed UG/HG freehub body. The freehub body number is Y32E98020.
That freehub was also used on a FH-M62 and FH-M650 (DX).
You can probably use a Y32Y98010 off of an FH-6401 (600/Ultegra) or FH-5001 (Sante).
I went from 7spd to 8 spd on my DX FH-650 by swapping the freehub body with one off a 6401 freehub.
Best route is to buy a complete hub, (eBay), if possible, and move everything over. This is more important if you don't go with the original freehub. Loose Screws Bicycle Parts still has NOS 6401, 5000, and MT62 axle assemblies with cones.
Because you need to stay at 126mm OLD, you will need a thin shoulder flange 7 speed freehub body. The one on the lefty is a 7 speed thick flange. The one in the middle is your freehub body.
John
That freehub was also used on a FH-M62 and FH-M650 (DX).
You can probably use a Y32Y98010 off of an FH-6401 (600/Ultegra) or FH-5001 (Sante).
I went from 7spd to 8 spd on my DX FH-650 by swapping the freehub body with one off a 6401 freehub.
Best route is to buy a complete hub, (eBay), if possible, and move everything over. This is more important if you don't go with the original freehub. Loose Screws Bicycle Parts still has NOS 6401, 5000, and MT62 axle assemblies with cones.
Because you need to stay at 126mm OLD, you will need a thin shoulder flange 7 speed freehub body. The one on the lefty is a 7 speed thick flange. The one in the middle is your freehub body.
John
#8
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Many freehub bodies from that time period would work, but the issues may be getting the correct model that uses the same type of right side seal. The 1051 uses the older type of dust seal, which consists of 2 fiber (?) washers, not the newer style with a rubber seal.
A couple of other hubs that use this seal type and is HG are the A550 (RX100) and the M550 (LX).
Here is a pic of what the seal with the 2 rings looks like.
Here is the newer type seal.
See the difference in part #7. They are different diameters.
Last edited by KCT1986; 01-04-24 at 10:02 PM.
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If you can get it to work, it will give you time to find a donor vintage freehub, either new or used.
Also, buying a new vintage hub doesn’t meaning using the hub, it just means you have all the necessary parts (freehub body, cone, seal, etc.) to install n your current hub. The rest of the parts are for future use; if necessary.
John
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The first step is to determine if the freehub is toast, or just needs to be flushed out. There is a chance that you can soak it in solvent, if the pawls are not engaging, and then re-lubing it. I use Phil’s Tenacious Oil.
If you can get it to work, it will give you time to find a donor vintage freehub, either new or used.
Also, buying a new vintage hub doesn’t meaning using the hub, it just means you have all the necessary parts (freehub body, cone, seal, etc.) to install n your current hub. The rest of the parts are for future use; if necessary.
John
If you can get it to work, it will give you time to find a donor vintage freehub, either new or used.
Also, buying a new vintage hub doesn’t meaning using the hub, it just means you have all the necessary parts (freehub body, cone, seal, etc.) to install n your current hub. The rest of the parts are for future use; if necessary.
John
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I don’t think Shimano makes a new 7 speed freehub body that will work with your FH-1050 (?) freehub; only makes an RM30-7(?). But, and I’ll have to defer to KCT1986 for using a old 7 speed UG/HG freehub body on you FH-1050 freehub.
If it will fit, buy a used or NOS complete vintage freehub and move the freehub body, cone, seal, spacer over.
John
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One more thought. You can buy a 7 speed hyperglide cassette, take it apart, grind the wide tab off the cogs, install the cassette (line it up correctly), and then use a threaded 1st position uniglide cog.
I have one bike with a HG cassette and a threaded 13t UG cog.
John
I have one bike with a HG cassette and a threaded 13t UG cog.
John
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#15
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Yes, that is the older seal with the 2 rings, as I expected.
The freehub body has a piece that is 'pressed' into it that needs to match the type of seal on the cone. See part #15 & #17 in the diagram posted earlier.
So, your options are:
1. Find a freehub body that used the same seals as mentioned in my earlier post and shown in the M550 pic.
2. Get a complete hub similar to the 2nd pic, (1055), and transfer the freehub body w/seal and the matching cone/dust shield. Or all the parts of the same if you can find them. This design was used by Shimano for quite a few years.
The freehub body has a piece that is 'pressed' into it that needs to match the type of seal on the cone. See part #15 & #17 in the diagram posted earlier.
So, your options are:
1. Find a freehub body that used the same seals as mentioned in my earlier post and shown in the M550 pic.
2. Get a complete hub similar to the 2nd pic, (1055), and transfer the freehub body w/seal and the matching cone/dust shield. Or all the parts of the same if you can find them. This design was used by Shimano for quite a few years.
#16
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I guess the question goes back to what KCT1986 asked, which I now think is that you don’t have a UG/HG 7 speed freehub. A UG/HG freehub body allows you to use a cheap HG 7 speed cassette.
I don’t think Shimano makes a new 7 speed freehub body that will work with your FH-1050 (?) freehub; only makes an RM30-7(?). But, and I’ll have to defer to KCT1986 for using a old 7 speed UG/HG freehub body on you FH-1050 freehub.
If it will fit, buy a used or NOS complete vintage freehub and move the freehub body, cone, seal, spacer over.
John
I don’t think Shimano makes a new 7 speed freehub body that will work with your FH-1050 (?) freehub; only makes an RM30-7(?). But, and I’ll have to defer to KCT1986 for using a old 7 speed UG/HG freehub body on you FH-1050 freehub.
If it will fit, buy a used or NOS complete vintage freehub and move the freehub body, cone, seal, spacer over.
John
#17
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Will this work?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/16623197230...mis&media=COPY
https://www.ebay.com/itm/16623197230...mis&media=COPY
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It is easy to modify HG cassette sprockets to fit on the UG freehub body. Disassemble the HG cassette, and Dremel the one large spline to the smaller UG size. You can use your original UG spacers and the smallest UG sprocket. You can also replace the original spacers with 9-speed HG spacers and fit 8 sprockets on the freehub body. However, you will now need to friction shift the RD.
I believe I can assist with a 30T or 32T UG sprocket. I'll PM you.
I believe I can assist with a 30T or 32T UG sprocket. I'll PM you.
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Will this work?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/16623197230...mis&media=COPY
https://www.ebay.com/itm/16623197230...mis&media=COPY
Others who have done more mix-n-match swaps can correct me, but I believe, outside of the DA 74XX and the external spline RM series, any Shimano 7 speed HG compatible freehub body will work. Even on an older UG freehub. The important part is getting the correct body flange thickness to keep it at 126mm.
Buy a complete freehub and remove the body from it. You can mount a cog on an unlaced freehub, and to a wooden board to remove the freehub body.
John
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A problem is finding the thin flange version. I went through the same thing and had several hubs to choose from at my co-op. It was not really possible for me to discern thick vs thin flange while they were mounted to the hubs as they sat in a recess at the flange area. My first $10 hub purchase turned out to be the thick flange. I got it right on the next one which was good as the only other one left looked a bit beat up. I believe you do need the uniglide/hyperglide version to go to 126 mm OLD as that one is around 31mm for the sprockets while the pure hyperglide is around 35mm. Going from memory here so double check. Good luck
edit; Checking parts revealed that the model 732 was the thick flange. The one I did wind up using was a Deore M550. I believe this hub may have been spaced wider, so I reused my original 6 speed uniglide axle. IIRC I tried six uniglide sprockets with spacers from an eight speed and then a uniglide small sprocket to lock it. There wasn’t enough threads to feel comfortable as the uniglide sprocket stack is 29mm. The uniglide/hyperglide 31mm was the ticket for me. I even have it spaced at 125 to match my frame.
edit; Checking parts revealed that the model 732 was the thick flange. The one I did wind up using was a Deore M550. I believe this hub may have been spaced wider, so I reused my original 6 speed uniglide axle. IIRC I tried six uniglide sprockets with spacers from an eight speed and then a uniglide small sprocket to lock it. There wasn’t enough threads to feel comfortable as the uniglide sprocket stack is 29mm. The uniglide/hyperglide 31mm was the ticket for me. I even have it spaced at 125 to match my frame.
Last edited by sd5782; 01-05-24 at 12:00 PM.
#21
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X3speed
understand that you are trying to keep your bike as close to original for the Gravel Worlds, but the HG modification that several people have suggested really is a era appropriate modification. We’re talking about a pre internet time, when parts from Shimano were rapidly changing. There were times when it was necessary to make parts fit, because original parts simply weren’t available. You can make this modification and stay true to the flame. It’s easy. Even for a ham handed mechanic like me, it took just a few minutes.
understand that you are trying to keep your bike as close to original for the Gravel Worlds, but the HG modification that several people have suggested really is a era appropriate modification. We’re talking about a pre internet time, when parts from Shimano were rapidly changing. There were times when it was necessary to make parts fit, because original parts simply weren’t available. You can make this modification and stay true to the flame. It’s easy. Even for a ham handed mechanic like me, it took just a few minutes.
#22
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It is easy to modify HG cassette sprockets to fit on the UG freehub body. Disassemble the HG cassette, and Dremel the one large spline to the smaller UG size. You can use your original UG spacers and the smallest UG sprocket. You can also replace the original spacers with 9-speed HG spacers and fit 8 sprockets on the freehub body. However, you will now need to friction shift the RD.
I believe I can assist with a 30T or 32T UG sprocket. I'll PM you.
I believe I can assist with a 30T or 32T UG sprocket. I'll PM you.
#23
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X3speed
understand that you are trying to keep your bike as close to original for the Gravel Worlds, but the HG modification that several people have suggested really is a era appropriate modification. We’re talking about a pre internet time, when parts from Shimano were rapidly changing. There were times when it was necessary to make parts fit, because original parts simply weren’t available. You can make this modification and stay true to the flame. It’s easy. Even for a ham handed mechanic like me, it took just a few minutes.
understand that you are trying to keep your bike as close to original for the Gravel Worlds, but the HG modification that several people have suggested really is a era appropriate modification. We’re talking about a pre internet time, when parts from Shimano were rapidly changing. There were times when it was necessary to make parts fit, because original parts simply weren’t available. You can make this modification and stay true to the flame. It’s easy. Even for a ham handed mechanic like me, it took just a few minutes.
Last edited by X3speed; 01-05-24 at 11:05 AM.
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OK I looked and here is what I have:
I am pretty sure these will work for your purpose.
The 105 on top is a UG/HG body and the black hub shows seven cog marks.
These have been laying on the bench top as well (two seven speed cog sets).
You may have all of this for the cost of shipping by USPS maybe $10-$12. Smiles, MH. PM me with shipping info.
I am pretty sure these will work for your purpose.
The 105 on top is a UG/HG body and the black hub shows seven cog marks.
These have been laying on the bench top as well (two seven speed cog sets).
You may have all of this for the cost of shipping by USPS maybe $10-$12. Smiles, MH. PM me with shipping info.
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#25
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OK I looked and here is what I have:
I am pretty sure these will work for your purpose.
The 105 on top is a UG/HG body and the black hub shows seven cog marks.
These have been laying on the bench top as well (two seven speed cog sets).
You may have all of this for the cost of shipping by USPS maybe $10-$12. Smiles, MH. PM me with shipping info.
I am pretty sure these will work for your purpose.
The 105 on top is a UG/HG body and the black hub shows seven cog marks.
These have been laying on the bench top as well (two seven speed cog sets).
You may have all of this for the cost of shipping by USPS maybe $10-$12. Smiles, MH. PM me with shipping info.