Fell off the wagon once again.
#1
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Fell off the wagon once again.
I know what I said about no more bikes but when they're too cheap and too close...... No, it's not a trick of the camera angle, the fork blades DO trail the centerline of the head tube slightly and the seller managed to snap off the FD clamp before I got there but it was still a steal. The paint is very good with only some decal damage, the worst of which is the "PUEGEOT" on the DS down tube. There's no frame or fork rust and only some surface rust on some of the chrome pieces. From the distribution of dust and grime it appears to have been hanging vertically nose up for a few decades..
Be honest, if you found this for $50 and it would fit you would have made room for "just ONE more".
Be honest, if you found this for $50 and it would fit you would have made room for "just ONE more".
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#2
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My rule is I'll spend ~$60 for anything my size with parts worth at least $100. I think this would hit that criteria.
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At $50, I would have bought it. At $100, I would have thought about it. I used to own a blue PKN 10 just like this. I currently own and ride a 1982 white PXN 10. You will find that it is a very good riding bike. That is a good rear derailleur that can handle I believe up to a 30 tooth freewheel. The simplex drop outs on these bikes are threaded with a stop so it will take a non-simplex RD as well. Nice score.
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Nice find! And yes, I would.
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I hope he threw in the cable lock for free!!!
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
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At $50, I would have bought it. At $100, I would have thought about it. I used to own a blue PKN 10 just like this. I currently own and ride a 1982 white PXN 10. You will find that it is a very good riding bike. That is a good rear derailleur that can handle I believe up to a 30 tooth freewheel. The simplex drop outs on these bikes are threaded with a stop so it will take a non-simplex RD as well. Nice score.
Now I have to pick ANOTHER "keeper" to get rid of or at least break down so it will fit up in the rafters above the shop.
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...perhaps a twelve step program could be found...
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...perhaps a twelve step program could be found...
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Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
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#10
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Delrin in a place it shouldn't be???
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
#11
Disraeli Gears
Looks good; nice graphics. My rule these days is that I won't look at anything that won't fit at least 42 mm tires, isn't constructed with butted tubing, and doesn't have fender eyelets. You've got at least 2 of 3.
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i would have grabbed it for anywhere between $50-$100. i like those pugs. great score!
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I have a universal 10,000 RPM key.
It's gonna take more than twelve.......
Original all metal SX series, he snapped the clamp band right at the barrel for the pin. How does one do that "adjusting" the derailleur? Or any other way for that matter?
It's gonna take more than twelve.......
Original all metal SX series, he snapped the clamp band right at the barrel for the pin. How does one do that "adjusting" the derailleur? Or any other way for that matter?
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Not so much as a scuff mark I hadn't bothered to look at the derailleur as I just planned on replacing it but he not only broke the band but the riveted clamp stud AND the cage is absolutely mangled. The broken end of the stud shows signs of corrosion so it has been cracked for quite a long time. Just a guess but he may have been trying to adjust the derailleur, took it for a test ride and the stud finally failed and the derailleur pulled into the chainwheels, they have some marks on them but no real damage. Had he not done this the same thing would very likely have happened to me. I can save the cable retention bolt, the two adjuster screws and the Peugeot label and that is it........ The derailleur "was" an SJA 102. From looking through the classifieds here and Ebay finding another one could be tough.
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[QUOTE=Murray Missile;2207
Original all metal SX series, he snapped the clamp band right at the barrel for the pin. How does one do that "adjusting" the derailleur? Or any other way for that matter?[/QUOTE]
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you certainly did the machine a favour in getting it out of his custody!
who knows what he might have achieved next
perchance using the frame's downtube to test out the sharpness of a new hacksaw blade...
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Original all metal SX series, he snapped the clamp band right at the barrel for the pin. How does one do that "adjusting" the derailleur? Or any other way for that matter?[/QUOTE]
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you certainly did the machine a favour in getting it out of his custody!
who knows what he might have achieved next
perchance using the frame's downtube to test out the sharpness of a new hacksaw blade...
-----
#19
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Nah, I now think the carnage was the result of a previous "Primitive Pete" overtightening the clamp stud and it finally broke when this kid was doing a test ride while trying to be a nice guy and adjusting the FD. It showed signs of having been fractured most of the way through for a long time. I used to a lot of failure analysis back in my previous life as a Quality Engineer. This guy just had the misfortune of having the inevitable failure happen while it was in his possession. If it hadn't broken during his watch it probably would have on mine although hopefully while I was reinstalling it and not rolling down a long hill!
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#20
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Dug through my derailleur stash and came up with a Suntour 7 from an '81 Univega that will clean up nicely and it has the integral cable housing stop like the Simplex. It will do until a more suitable replacement can be found. I also have a nice Cyclone Mk II that has the stop as well but it's part of a matched set and I don't want to split them up. I've decided to fast track this one as it will be the easiest build of any of my recently acquired Reynolds 531 bikes and I'm anxious to ride one.
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#21
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Took a closer look at the fork today. I believe it is bent right at the joint where the steerer tube meets the crown, the fork blades look fine. I'm going to straighten it, then I'll chemically strip the paint at the site of the bend and take it to work so I can examine it under a microscope for any stress fractures or fatigue. If nothing shows up it's a keeper.
Just an FYI, you can't use mechanical stripping methods like a wire brush, Scotch Brite or media blasting because it can fold surface metal into any cracks causing them to blend in.
Just an FYI, you can't use mechanical stripping methods like a wire brush, Scotch Brite or media blasting because it can fold surface metal into any cracks causing them to blend in.
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Only $50? I would have bought 2 of them! I paid $300 for this PN10 with a broken (missing) FD, and funky brake levers. The color and nearly pristine decals sold me. They are pretty bikes.
As bought, local CL.
First fixes and upgrades, temporary Sugino compact crank, Shimano Exage FD, Campy brake levers.
As is today, Stronglight 99 crank, English thread pedals, still the Shimano FD. Still loving the ride.
As bought, local CL.
First fixes and upgrades, temporary Sugino compact crank, Shimano Exage FD, Campy brake levers.
As is today, Stronglight 99 crank, English thread pedals, still the Shimano FD. Still loving the ride.
Last edited by Slightspeed; 05-24-21 at 11:27 PM.
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