Lbxpdx

I have this beauty of an old saddle that I would like to use, though I feel it should get some sort of conditioning before I tighten the bolt. I’ve heard obenauf and proofhide, though I’m not sure what would work for an old and kinda dried saddle.

merziac

@Lbxpdx

As we know this is a bit of a dark art and many of us have our own conflicting methods.

On ones like this and most else I use Langlitz leather dressing, and yes, not a saddle dressing, yes it has silicone and yes it works great for me every time.

Especially ones like this that seem like they may not want to be put back into regular use.

I use it fairly liberally but proceed with caution, YMMV.

Proofide never helps ones like this IMO unless you use a lot of it and heat, something I like to avoid.

I always do the underside too so it soaks in from from both sides.

Langlitz is here in PDX, 24th and Division, best real leathers on the planet and worth a trip anytime.

clubman 

I wouldn't tighten the saddle. Those stress lines at the rivets will rip and then it's done. Try Merziac's suggestion and ride it until you can't stand it or it rips. These were the entry-level leather saddle once Brooks took over Wrights.

Back in the day, Wrights were awesome. I've got two with the thickest hide I've ever seen.

Lbxpdx

perfect. I have a Langlitz jacket and their dressing in my cupboard.

merziac

Excellent, great minds and all that, probably should have known.

Like I said, maybe a bit sparingly at first.

bikamper

My W3N has been caressing my butt for over fifty years, though I gotta admit I was hating it a bit towards the end of PBP in 91. Good luck with yours.

I'll need to check out the Langlitz, I've been using Obenaufs of late but I'm not above trying something else. Proofide just made me start jonesing for a cheeseburger.

awac

Funny. I have just bought a used Wright saddle from eBay. I will try using some of my Ballistol oil on it. It is not tested on animals or has any nasty chemicals. I use the oil and grease already and like it a lot. In fact the oil can be used as a skin barrier protection, treat cuts, etc.

https://ballistol.com/uses/leather-care/

Aardwolf

I'm in the same boat - Wright's Swallow (W3SW I think) is in the post to me:



I had a look round for how to conserve it.
Turns out I've already got some Lexol, but Brooks do a "Brooks Saddle Maintenance Kit" for around £10 which has 25g of Proofide and possibly more important the Brooks tension spanner.
Since Wright's was owned by Brooks I'm guessing the same tension spanner will work.

I'm guessing Proofide is the correct approach, unless I find it has issues when I get it.

Edit: here's a link for the kit https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/saddles/...intenance-kit/

Greg R

I have a Brooks in worse condition that over several months I sparingly applied Proofide. The key was patience. Over application can make it too soft and the fibers can deform as if it was dry and brittle. I put thin layers on separated by days of allowing penetration, sometimes aided with a hair dryer. After a couple of months the resilience came back as a worn in saddle. I did tighten the nut maybe half a turn and it's in way better shape and more water resistant than received. The conditioner proved excellent for other leather items as well such as vintage slide rule, binocular, lens cases, and leather sections and straps on my Swiss back packs.

rhm

I hope you'll pardon me for being dense, but what are you trying to do? Is there something wrong with the saddle that you want to fix, or do you feel it needs routine maintenance? I'm not sure what 'kinda dried' means.

Both Obenauf's and Proofide are fine. Don't put on more than the leather will absorb, which won't be much.

If you look underneath, on the cantle plate you may see a date code consiting of one letter and two numbers. It'll probably be early 70's. So the saddle is likely about 50 years old. With that in mind, you have to be realistic about the condition of the leather. Like you and I, it's not getting any younger, and it's already been dead a half century. It may tear in half when you hit a bump. It's really hard to assess the strength of old leather, and whatever state it's in, you can't turn back the clock. So, with that in mind, don't worry. It will be fine until it's not.

It looks like your saddle has some flexibility; if that's the case, you don't need to soften it. The shape looks pretty good as well, so you don't need to reshape it.
I don't like the spots where the finish has worn through. I would put some gum taraganth on those and burnish the surface to a sheen. Shoe polish would work too, but you'll get it on your pants when you ride.

I'm sure someone will tell you not to use neatsfoot oil under any circumstances. If it were a new saddle that would be good advice. But Neatsfoot oil isn't going to do any harm to leather this old, and it might do a little good.

Good luck with it! And if (ok, when) it fails, don't worry, it was not your fault.

rhm

Yes, your Wrights swallow is built on the Brooks narrow frame, same frame as a Wrights W3N, Brooks B15 Narrow, Brooks B15 swallow, B17 Narrow, and so on. Same frame. The higher end ones had eyelets in the bag loops.
That said, only use the spanner if the saddle is so loose that the bolt is rattling around. If it's snug, you don't need the spanner.
If you buy a new Brooks saddle, it will come with a spanner. If you go to a bike shop and pay them to put a new Brooks saddle on your bike, they may keep the spanner that comes with the saddle. If so, they have a bin full of spanners by now. So if you need one, that's who i'd ask. They can probably sell you proofide, too....