Most durable Cog
09-10-09, 12:08 PM
#1
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Most durable Cog
Hello all.
I have a fg that I use to commute on sometimes and that I do a fair bit of winter base miles on, esp. in ****ty weather.
I stripped the rear hub, so I am going to JB weld a cog on there instead of just toss the wheel out. Because this will be the last cog that ever goes on the wheel, I want it to be very durable (hardened steel FOSHO).
Do any of you w tons of FG miles have recommendations for very durable and hard rear cogs? This bike will be used primarily for 1-3 hr rides (nothing longer) and short trips around town/to campus when im wearing regular street clothes.
BTW if any of you have exp w JB welding please chime in.
THX
I have a fg that I use to commute on sometimes and that I do a fair bit of winter base miles on, esp. in ****ty weather.
I stripped the rear hub, so I am going to JB weld a cog on there instead of just toss the wheel out. Because this will be the last cog that ever goes on the wheel, I want it to be very durable (hardened steel FOSHO).
Do any of you w tons of FG miles have recommendations for very durable and hard rear cogs? This bike will be used primarily for 1-3 hr rides (nothing longer) and short trips around town/to campus when im wearing regular street clothes.
BTW if any of you have exp w JB welding please chime in.
THX
09-10-09, 12:19 PM
#2
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Buy a cheap cog and replace the wheel as soon as you can.
Long rides aren't your worry. Skidding and anything that induces large stress loads to the bond are your worry.
Do it for the time being if you have to, but no more than what is necessary.
Be safe.
Long rides aren't your worry. Skidding and anything that induces large stress loads to the bond are your worry.
Do it for the time being if you have to, but no more than what is necessary.
Be safe.
09-10-09, 12:26 PM
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yeah, don't use a stripped hub.
that being said...dura ace is fairly cheap and very durable.
that being said...dura ace is fairly cheap and very durable.
09-10-09, 12:38 PM
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Buy a new wheel.
Surly cog's have a beefy tooth profile, cant comment on how long it will last yet.
My Dura Ace cog wasn't as beefy but it was super smooth, however I thought it wore out bit soon (~3.5 months of life)
Then again I was regularly riding an average of 60 miles a day 5 days out of the week on it.
If your only doing 1-3 mile trips you will obviously see longer life in your cogs.
Surly cog's have a beefy tooth profile, cant comment on how long it will last yet.
My Dura Ace cog wasn't as beefy but it was super smooth, however I thought it wore out bit soon (~3.5 months of life)
Then again I was regularly riding an average of 60 miles a day 5 days out of the week on it.
If your only doing 1-3 mile trips you will obviously see longer life in your cogs.
09-10-09, 12:50 PM
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^
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That was a 1-3 hr trips not miles.
I should just buckle down and buy a new wheel, and I will as soon as this one gives but I gotta make it last for all its worth cuz im broke.
Is a JB weld a really short-term solution? Like under 3 months? If that's the case I wont even bother.
But im concerned about a durable cog regardless of new hub or JB weld job. Dura ace is the fav. vote so far.
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That was a 1-3 hr trips not miles.
I should just buckle down and buy a new wheel, and I will as soon as this one gives but I gotta make it last for all its worth cuz im broke.
Is a JB weld a really short-term solution? Like under 3 months? If that's the case I wont even bother.
But im concerned about a durable cog regardless of new hub or JB weld job. Dura ace is the fav. vote so far.
09-10-09, 01:04 PM
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jb weld is a very short term solution...as in get a new wheel as soon as possible. I mean, you can find a rear wheel for like 50-60 bucks.
Jb weld has the potential to work for a while, but do not trust it at all. ride with brakes, no skidding, no skipping, etc. plus, jb weld hasn't worked too well for me between aluminum and steel.
Jb weld has the potential to work for a while, but do not trust it at all. ride with brakes, no skidding, no skipping, etc. plus, jb weld hasn't worked too well for me between aluminum and steel.
09-10-09, 01:13 PM
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09-10-09, 01:29 PM
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EAI. If you want higher tooth counts, like above 17, DuraAce doesn't have them.
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09-10-09, 01:36 PM
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more teeth = longer lasting, but more torque generated and more torque means its easier to rip it off again.
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09-10-09, 01:43 PM
#11
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Surly cogs seem to last a good long time... my longest serving cogs are the antique 1/8 track cogs I have collected over the years as they never seem to wear.
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09-10-09, 01:58 PM
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Think I have 4 MN winters of cranking up hills on my Surly cog... seems to be holding up very, very well considering it has lasted longer than everything else on the bike.
09-10-09, 02:04 PM
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Any cog that's not made of balsa wood is going to out-last this guy's application. He needs a new wheel. Period.
09-10-09, 03:57 PM
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Take your wheel to a machine shop and have them spot weld the cog on, yeeeaaaaa
09-10-09, 04:28 PM
#17
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Are the lockring threads stripped? If its just the cog threads that are stripped, you can JB weld a Miche carrier and you will still be able to replace cogs.
09-10-09, 08:14 PM
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09-10-09, 08:44 PM
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I just realized that I will be able to afford a new wheel early next year, mid Jan-ish depending on when paycheck comes in.
Having said that I will JB weld the cheapest cog I can find on there and buy a new wheel next year.
Thanks for all the replies.
Having said that I will JB weld the cheapest cog I can find on there and buy a new wheel next year.
Thanks for all the replies.
09-10-09, 08:56 PM
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09-10-09, 08:57 PM
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09-10-09, 11:04 PM
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i have tried this before, same situation where i was broke as a joke and tried to jb weld my lockring on. didnt end well at all. i lost the lockring going down a hill and started freewheeling downhill. luckily, i was able to ditch into a yard instead of an intersection. so, from my experience, not worth it. try and make a new wheel/hub happen if you can
09-10-09, 11:20 PM
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yes, the best solution is to just take it to any machine shop and have them weld it into place real quick. It will stay on forever at that point and you won't need a new wheels until you want to change cogs. And most shops should do it for free in 3 minutes
09-11-09, 12:06 AM
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Has there been a new breakthrough in metallurgy? Last time I checked, steel and aluminum are kinda hard to weld together
However, you could crank the cog on as tight as possible, then have a couple small holes drilled through the cog and hub where they meet and then have pins inserted with an interference fit... but this would cost at least as much as a new hub.