JoeTBM 

I got it how some freehubs can be removed from the hub with a 10mm hex wrench but I have run across another type that needs a different tool and looking for some help ID'ing the tool.

I researched quite a few YouTube items on this and most suggest the 10mm hex and some mentioned a 12mm or 14 mm or even a 15mm hex, seems these don't fit and I have also tried a 55 and 60 size star (torque). I even visited one of my LBS and they couldn't offer a suggestion (I don't think they replace freehubs, just the whole rim). I looked at Park Tool stuff and don't see anything particular there either.

Turning to the forum for some help/direction.

Tried taking a picture of the inside of the hub as I can see some splines but it was tough, here are a couple of shots.

No, there are not and brand markings I can see, the hub does have a place to mount a disk rotor but when the wheel came to me, there was no rotor attached. I am trying to salvage this freehub to mount it on another wheel that has a freehub (paw) problem. I am not looking to disassemble the freehub to service it, just remove and reinstall on another hub.

Thanks to all that can help

RocThrower

I had a hub that required an 11mm hex wrench to remove the freehub body. They are not a common size, but I was able to order one off of Amazon I believe. Park also makes one: https://www.parktool.com/product/11mm-hex-wrench-hr-11. It looks like that hub accepts a hex wrench, and if a 10 and 12mm don't work the 11mm be what you need.

JoeTBM 

Thank you, Found a long Elkind 11mm hex wrench on ebay..... should be here by Wednesday

cxwrench

Just correcting your terminology for future use. And that 11mm should be what you're looking for.

dsbrantjr

Since it is an Acument Global Technologies trademarked term, to be totally correct it should be written as Torx®

cxwrench

Great, now I'm gonna get a bill from someone!

MudPie

I have a Bontrager freehub that needed an 11mm hex bit. I successfully used a 7/16 hex bit as as substitute.
11mm = .4331
7/16 = .4375

I remember paying good money for that 1/2” drive socket but with 7/16” hex. It was a professional line of tools, but I like tools. When I bought the replacement free hub from Trek LBS, it came with an 11mm hex that accepted a more common hex bit, like 8 or 10mm. The 7/16” hex tool cost more than the freehub.

Andrew R Stewart 

And expect the freehub body to be REALLY tightly secured in the shell. We have had serious spoke untensioning happen while two of us turn the wheel with the wrench held in the Wilton vise. Andy

JoeTBM 

Thanks Andy

mrrabbit 

Some hubs like the Chosen A5012 are part.

1. Locknut inside hub on non-drive side is loosened first.
2. Then freehub is loosened and removed.

Both sides use a 11mm allen wrench.

=8-|

JoeTBM 

Thanks, still waiting on the arrival of the long 11mm hex key, I will keep it in mind when we finally get to disassemble.

JoeTBM 

Well, finally got the 11mm hex in Tuesday, as the hub is out of the wheel that we want to salvage the freehub from, we secured it to the work bench but could not get it to budge even with a cheater bar on the Allen key. Going to try again today with one of my younger volunteers who is coming in. It did not appear to heave anything in the way of a locknut on the non-drive side

Andrew R Stewart 

Some freehub bodies thread in with a left hand direction, make sure you're trying to loosen it in the correct direction. We have seen spokes become un tensioned with the force to loosen some FH bodies up. Try placing the wrench in a bench vise and using the rim as the lever arm. Having two people do the loosening can help prevent the wheel from collapsing from the efforts. Andy

JoeTBM 

Well, unless I want to re-spoke this hub into a rim, I won't be able to do it that way. Going to need a longer cheater bar, it won't budge in either direction