Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

When do decide to repaint your bike?

Search
Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

When do decide to repaint your bike?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-04-15, 11:58 PM
  #1  
rms13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: SoCal
Posts: 6,496
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 276 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times in 3 Posts
When do decide to repaint your bike?

I love my Ironman's original paint job but I also want the frame to last. There are a few scratches and nicks and some look like their starting to rust. At what point do you consider repainting the frame to improve its longevity?
rms13 is offline  
Old 03-05-15, 12:24 AM
  #2  
Lascauxcaveman 
Senior Member
 
Lascauxcaveman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Port Angeles, WA
Posts: 7,922

Bikes: A green one, "Ragleigh," or something.

Mentioned: 194 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1627 Post(s)
Liked 630 Times in 356 Posts
Short answer: when I feel like doing a repaint project for my own amusement.

Best answer: if it's just a few scratches and nicks, maybe just wetsand the rust off and then coat over the areas in question with some sort of clearcoat, nail polish (lacquer) of an appropriate color or Testors enamel. With a little experimentation, you can get pretty close to the original colors.

The only bikes I've ever done a full repaint of were absolutely beat to death, paint-wise. Really trashed. If I had an fairly iconic bike like an Ironman, I'd just touch it up if possible.
__________________
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●


Last edited by Lascauxcaveman; 03-05-15 at 12:28 AM.
Lascauxcaveman is offline  
Old 03-05-15, 12:43 AM
  #3  
Henry III
is just a real cool dude
 
Henry III's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: The Thumb, MI
Posts: 3,165
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 31 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 32 Times in 14 Posts
I normally only do a repaint if it's already been repainted and it's really bad. I've only had two frames professionally repainted. One was a 73 Schwinn Sports Tourer that had a lot of framework done and then a Ciocc that was spraybombs and missing all the decals. My Guerciotti has chips, scratches and parts of the decals missing but it's all original and a pre TSD model so it was all done in Italy hence the reason the decals and paint are chipping off.
Henry III is offline  
Old 03-05-15, 01:58 AM
  #4  
gaucho777 
Senior Member
 
gaucho777's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Berkeley, CA
Posts: 7,244

Bikes: '72 Cilo Pacer, '72 Gitane Gran Tourisme, '72 Peugeot PX10, '73 Speedwell Ti, '74 Peugeot UE-8, '75 Peugeot PR-10L, '80 Colnago Super, '85 De Rosa Pro, '86 Look Equipe 753, '86 Look KG86, '89 Parkpre Team, '90 Parkpre Team MTB, '90 Merlin

Mentioned: 87 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 834 Post(s)
Liked 2,125 Times in 554 Posts
I've done a few repaints and it's a ton of work. I get better with each one and feel I could do an adequate job myself, but I would pay a pro to repaint a very special frame, never for a flip. I would only do a repaint if there is major original paint damage to the point that I am worried about corrosive damage impacting the integrity of the frame in multiple places. Otherwise, either some touch out paint or treat the rust depending on the finish of the bike. Certain paints are very difficult to retouch. Sometimes it depends on the paint. Pearls and glitters and fades are difficult to match. They tend to look like scar tissue when touched up: blotchy, a shade off, and bit more shiny that the rest. I wouldn't know where to start retouching a Klein with a wacky pearl fade paint job. I find solid colors much easier to touch up with a few layers of brush painting and wet sanding. For an Ironman, I might touch up a white and red one, but simply treat the rust and protect for a Miami Vice purple and yellow one unless I was able to find a really good color match. The older the original paint, the less willing I would be willing to fuss with it.
gaucho777 is offline  
Old 03-05-15, 03:07 AM
  #5  
verktyg 
verktyg
 
verktyg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 4,030

Bikes: Current favorites: 1988 Peugeot Birraritz, 1984 Gitane Super Corsa, 1980s DeRosa, 1981 Bianchi Campione Del Mondo, 1992 Paramount OS, 1988 Colnago Technos, 1985 RalieghUSA SBDU Team Pro

Mentioned: 207 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1036 Post(s)
Liked 1,238 Times in 654 Posts
I repainted a number of frames BITD. Repainting is a major amount of work. Having someone do it will cost $200 to $500, good jobs are at the higher end of the range. Also consider a nice newly painted frame with bad chrome looks - well you figure it out. Same with tatty components.

I had a frame repainted a few years ago - $300 +$50 for decals (extenuating circumstances).

I avoid buying bikes that need repainting. I flipped a few but I picked them up cheap for a friend and sold them for my costs.

On older frames you never know what you're going to find after you strip the paint off. Rust pin holes = tube replacements.

I've seen a few nicely done rattle can jobs done by people who took their time. Most LOOK like rattle can jobs!

I use a dental tool to remove small areas of surface rust in areas where the paint has chipped. After removing light surface rust I use Testors hobby enamel paint to mix up a close match. It will last a long time if you keep the bike in a dry area with low humidity.

You can also find auto touch-up paint at car parts stores.

When touching up, you're just doing a camouflage job, not a concors restoration. The bike just needs to pass the 10 foot test... anyone getting closer... GET AWAY FROM MY BIKE YOU PERV!!

Before and after:




verktyg

Chas.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
Gitane1969TdF0004.jpg (99.9 KB, 134 views)
File Type: jpg
Touchup4.jpg (94.9 KB, 120 views)
__________________
Don't believe everything you think! History is written by those who weren't there....

Chas. ;-)


Last edited by verktyg; 03-05-15 at 03:13 AM.
verktyg is offline  
Old 03-05-15, 04:47 AM
  #6  
CliffordK
Senior Member
 
CliffordK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18373 Post(s)
Liked 4,508 Times in 3,351 Posts
I'm on the fence about repainting my old Colnago Super. The paint is in really bad shape, but it could also be termed nearly a half century of Patina including places where spending too much time out of the saddle simply rubbed through the paint.

If I wanted a frame with flawless paint, I could just buy a new frame.
CliffordK is offline  
Old 03-05-15, 05:47 AM
  #7  
Prowler 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Near Pottstown, PA: 30 miles NW of Philadelphia
Posts: 2,186

Bikes: 2 Trek Mtn, Cannondale R600 road, 6 vintage road bikes

Mentioned: 83 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 472 Post(s)
Liked 1,028 Times in 404 Posts
Every case is different. Last fall my, just purchased, Raleigh Pro Mk IV had a lot of surface rust on the top tube and down tube and the original frame clips for the rear brake were gone, replaced by DuraAce clips. That just said the bike had been ridden alot and 'put to bed wet'. It could have also been on a trainer a lot to as it appeared to be saltwater damage from sweat. I treated the corroded sections with rust converter and tried to touch up with nail polish. Close match but it really just looked blotchy. I wiped all that off and decided to spray just those two tubes.

I found a GM Maui Blue metallic Duplicolor that looked pretty close to the frame color. BTW this frame was not Blue Mink and there were no decals anywhere nor any sign of there ever being decals. It may have been a Worksop respray but the original Blue Mink was under the slightly darker top coat. So waddaell, it's not original anyway.

I knew that a slight color mis-match would be easier on the eyes if there was a joint of some kind between the two paints. So I masked off the lugs on each end of the TT and DT and masked the rest of the frame (the bike was totally apart for the renovation anyway). I light sanded those two tubes, cleaned them and sprayed according to instructions then cleared according to instructions. I was surprised at how close the match was when I pulled the masking. Better than a 10 foot job, maybe a 3 foot job.

Note: that paint was pretty soft at first even after 'baking' it in the back of the car on a hot day. Now, 10 months later it seems pretty tough and may last nicely. I've been living with it and have about 1000 miles on that bike now but I was pretty careful with it early on. I'm happy I sprayed mine as the damage was way more than a few scratches.

I'm enjoying the Mk IV experience now and will never represent this bike as 'original'. The paint suits the condition of the components and the intended use of the bike. I get this all 531 DB & rapid taper tubing thing. Great ride, great look. I may even get a couple of decals some time (maybe those cool '72 Carlton bits).
Prowler is online now  
Old 03-05-15, 06:01 AM
  #8  
rootboy 
Senior Member
 
rootboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Wherever
Posts: 16,748
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 556 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 132 Times in 78 Posts
Originally Posted by CliffordK
... including places where spending too much time out of the saddle simply rubbed through the paint.
I'm trying to figure this one out. Out of the saddle? What?... were you sitting on the top tube?
Thigh resting on top tube?

I'm just trying to understand how you could wear down paint.
rootboy is offline  
Old 03-05-15, 06:11 AM
  #9  
OldsCOOL
Senior Member
 
OldsCOOL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: northern michigan
Posts: 13,317

Bikes: '77 Colnago Super, '76 Fuji The Finest, '88 Cannondale Criterium, '86 Trek 760, '87 Miyata 712

Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 659 Post(s)
Liked 595 Times in 313 Posts
When I get bored. Certainly not to save a frame from a few nicks and scratches, especially when not riding in snow/rain or by coastal salt breezes. I factor the frame as being in worse hands than it was before me, the frame isnt rusting out then or now.
OldsCOOL is offline  
Old 03-05-15, 07:05 AM
  #10  
big chainring 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Wilmette, IL
Posts: 6,881
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 751 Post(s)
Liked 727 Times in 351 Posts
I'm a brush and roller painter. Painted my VW Bus with a waterborne alkyd gloss paint. Cleans up with water, dries to the touch in 1/2 hour or less, and dries hard in 24 hours. Levels out like a premium oil enamel. Painted a frame with it and its tough as nails. Highly recommend it for a brushed paint job.
big chainring is offline  
Old 03-05-15, 07:07 AM
  #11  
wrk101
Thrifty Bill
 
wrk101's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Mountains of Western NC
Posts: 23,524

Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more

Mentioned: 96 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1236 Post(s)
Liked 964 Times in 628 Posts
Short answer: Never.

I like patina. If the paint is really super bad, well, I have 100+ other frames to choose from, so I just use one of those instead. I leave my paint projects for others with the time/tools/patience/expertise to do a quality repaint, or to those with access to low cost powder coat.
wrk101 is offline  
Old 03-05-15, 07:19 AM
  #12  
iab
Senior Member
 
iab's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: NW Burbs, Chicago
Posts: 12,054
Mentioned: 201 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3015 Post(s)
Liked 3,802 Times in 1,408 Posts
Originally Posted by wrk101
Short answer: Never.
Correct.

To improve longevity, you never need to repaint. Wax, WD-40 and just plain oil are popular choices for protecting bare metal.

To improve aesthetics is another story and I go with whatever floats the owners boat.

This bike is about 40% bare metal. I use wax to protect it.

Frejus001 by iabisdb, on Flickr
iab is offline  
Old 03-05-15, 07:35 AM
  #13  
easyupbug 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,678

Bikes: too many sparkly Italians, some sweet Americans and a couple interesting Japanese

Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 569 Post(s)
Liked 581 Times in 409 Posts
I love my Master Ironman and if the paint got to where it bugged me I would not repaint but would look for another just like it with good paint and sell mine, done carefully and patently this could cost me little. On my Colnago Master or one of the customs it was a no brainer to paint as a $500+ new paint job with quality decals under the clear coat is gorgeous and assuming the chrome. etc. is still nice, a bargain compared to a new Master ($3,500!).
easyupbug is offline  
Old 03-05-15, 08:08 AM
  #14  
Peugeotlover
Senior Member
 
Peugeotlover's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: York, PA
Posts: 551

Bikes: '72 Peugeot PX-10; '74 Raleigh International; '87 Specialized RockHopper; '88 Specialized StumpJumper; '02 Cannondale Scalpel

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 46 Post(s)
Liked 9 Times in 5 Posts
You can take your bike frame to an autobody shop.
Call ahead, let them scan the good, old paint and mix up a touch-up liquid or spray aerosol.
Cost- around $25.
Apply liquid paint with a hobby brush.

I usually get by with Testors enamel paint as Chas said.
You can mix different colors to get a pretty close blend.
Peugeotlover is offline  
Old 03-05-15, 08:39 AM
  #15  
rhm
multimodal commuter
 
rhm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Posts: 19,808

Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...

Mentioned: 584 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1908 Post(s)
Liked 574 Times in 339 Posts
If a frame has its original paint and graphics, I won't repaint it. Condition doesn't really matter. I might do a partial repaint if there are particular trouble spots.

If the paint isn't original, looks terrible, and has terrible or bogus graphics, sure, I'll repaint. And when I'm done, the bike will have good graphics, possibly even correct ones. Not too incorrect, though; my 1970s Holdsworth has graphics based on 1930s Holdsworth graphics.
__________________
www.rhmsaddles.com.
rhm is offline  
Old 03-05-15, 08:40 AM
  #16  
auchencrow
Senior Member
 
auchencrow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Detroit
Posts: 10,303
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 42 Times in 33 Posts
I differentiate between use and abuse. There is a difference. I don't think any amount of honest wear would prompt me to repaint.
__________________
- Auchen
auchencrow is offline  
Old 03-05-15, 09:25 AM
  #17  
sloar 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Elwood Indiana
Posts: 7,268

Bikes: they change so much I'm tired of updating this

Mentioned: 168 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1212 Post(s)
Liked 1,128 Times in 427 Posts
I usually buy frames or complete bikes that desperately need paint jobs. I can get nice quality frames for a lot less, plus I enjoy doing it.
__________________
Semper fi
sloar is offline  
Old 03-05-15, 09:26 AM
  #18  
Velognome 
Get off my lawn!
 
Velognome's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: The Garden State
Posts: 6,031

Bikes: 1917 Loomis, 1923 Rudge, 1930 Hercules Renown, 1947 Mclean, 1948 JA Holland, 1955 Hetchins, 1957 Carlton Flyer, 1962 Raleigh Sport, 1978&81 Raleigh Gomp GS', 2010 Raliegh Clubman

Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 93 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 98 Times in 48 Posts
Mostly after returning from one of those "Velo Meets". Thankfully the impulse wears off rather quickly and I go back to enjoying what I've got.
Velognome is offline  
Old 03-05-15, 11:54 AM
  #19  
CliffordK
Senior Member
 
CliffordK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18373 Post(s)
Liked 4,508 Times in 3,351 Posts
Originally Posted by rootboy
I'm trying to figure this one out. Out of the saddle? What?... were you sitting on the top tube?
Thigh resting on top tube?

I'm just trying to understand how you could wear down paint.
Here are a couple of photos of my top tube on the Colnago, side view, taken in June 2014, and January 2015. I was somewhat startled by the increased wear in just the last year (this winter?).


When standing the wobble of the frame abraids somewhat on my pants.

However, I think I've concluded that the abrasion and wear is much greater when wearing rain/slicker pants than just cotton. It is extremely rare for me to be riding the bike with just hairy legs. It is possible that the rain pants also hit the frame when simply pedaling while seated.

I've finally built a Titanium "rain bike", so hopefully both wear and rust will be reduced on the Colnago. The frame will probably be used as a pattern for my first bike build from scratch and any necessary jigs to build it (other than figuring out how to do 130 or 135mm dropout spacing). Then I will decide how much restoration to do on it.
Attached Images
CliffordK is offline  
Old 03-05-15, 12:34 PM
  #20  
tricky 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Upper Left, USA
Posts: 1,915
Mentioned: 50 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 634 Post(s)
Liked 444 Times in 298 Posts
Good thread. The powder coat option is a good one and it seems like most cities of a good size have a powdercoater that has experience with bikes. I have heard of folks getting $100 powder coat jobs that they are happy with. It it is a rider, it will be a more durable finish. The downsides might be limited color choices and a thicker coating.
tricky is offline  
Old 03-05-15, 01:22 PM
  #21  
mparker326
Senior Member
 
mparker326's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 1,977

Bikes: Schwinn Paramount P15, Fisher Montare, Proteus, Rivendell Quickbeam

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts
I am of the never repaint school as well.

Early on, I had a frame powder coated. Looked great, but I moved that bike on and never wasn't able to recoup the cost of a powder coat. Also, people never factor in the cost of chasing & facing threads on the powder coats.

I move bikes in and out of my fleet all the time. Nothing deters potential buyers of a high end frame like a repaint. If considering repainting a low end frame, why bother? You can get a nicer one in better condition for less than the cost of a paint job.
mparker326 is offline  
Old 03-05-15, 01:23 PM
  #22  
randyjawa 
Senior Member
 
randyjawa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada - burrrrr!
Posts: 11,674

Bikes: 1958 Rabeneick 120D, 1968 Legnano Gran Premio, 196? Torpado Professional, 2000 Marinoni Piuma

Mentioned: 210 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1372 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,751 Times in 938 Posts
Generally, I avoid the urge to repaint a bicycle, allowing myself to be content with the appearance that took the bike's lifetime to achieve. That said, when the "as found" paint condition looks like this...





...I dig out the paint brush and get busy, until the bike looks like this...



My question is, when should I repaint this...

__________________
"98% of the bikes I buy are projects".
randyjawa is offline  
Old 03-05-15, 01:25 PM
  #23  
mechanicmatt
Hoards Thumbshifters
 
mechanicmatt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Signal Mountain, TN
Posts: 1,156

Bikes: '23 Black Mtn MC, '87 Bruce Gordon Chinook, '08 Jamis Aurora, '86 Trek 560, '97 Mongoose Rockadile, & '91 Trek 750

Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 246 Post(s)
Liked 334 Times in 192 Posts
It may be sacrilegious what I did by some peoples standards here but I had a rough Bruce Gordon Chinook that had many spots like these:

Bruce Gordon Chinook 1987 Plum

Bruce Gordon Chinook 1987 Plum

And had it powder coated it to this:

87 Bruce Gordon Chinook

87 Bruce Gordon Chinook

All in all cost me about $220 for powder coating (Groody Brothers), acquiring decals (Alan Wanta), a clear coat over that (GB), and some little red touches (GB). I'm happy I did it, and still need to build the frame up, and would rate powder coating 8 out of 10 compared to what was originally a wet spray paint job. If you just get a straight color and clear coat it would have been only in the $140 range which I think is just fine too. I got my wife's bike done at the same time and it was just one color and clear coat, and it made a HUGE difference in how well the frame looked. Don't know if that helps at all but I went through this and really have no regrets.

If you are anywhere near KC, then use Groody Bros they do a great job: Groody Brothers
mechanicmatt is offline  
Old 03-05-15, 01:32 PM
  #24  
mechanicmatt
Hoards Thumbshifters
 
mechanicmatt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Signal Mountain, TN
Posts: 1,156

Bikes: '23 Black Mtn MC, '87 Bruce Gordon Chinook, '08 Jamis Aurora, '86 Trek 560, '97 Mongoose Rockadile, & '91 Trek 750

Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 246 Post(s)
Liked 334 Times in 192 Posts
My wife's bike for reference, her's was like a 10 out of 10 improvement:

Mongoose Dynametric 325 Hybrid

Mongoose Dynametric 325 Hybrid

Mongoose Dynametric 325 Hybrid

Mongoose Dynametric 325 Hybrid

Last edited by mechanicmatt; 03-05-15 at 02:04 PM.
mechanicmatt is offline  
Old 03-05-15, 01:34 PM
  #25  
mechanicmatt
Hoards Thumbshifters
 
mechanicmatt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Signal Mountain, TN
Posts: 1,156

Bikes: '23 Black Mtn MC, '87 Bruce Gordon Chinook, '08 Jamis Aurora, '86 Trek 560, '97 Mongoose Rockadile, & '91 Trek 750

Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 246 Post(s)
Liked 334 Times in 192 Posts
Also seeing your top tube, if it were me, I would get it repainted.
mechanicmatt is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.