Chain Lube
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Chain Lube
I’m somewhat OCD about keeping my chain clean. I live in Houston and all the MUPS are covered with a fine silt. By the end of these last couple of weeks (100 miles a work week) my chain has been filthy. I normally use a light lube, lube one section at a time with a single drop per link and then wipe clean. So I don’t think it is a too much lube issue. Do I need to go to a dry lube in this situation?
#2
Me duelen las nalgas
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 13,513
Bikes: Centurion Ironman, Trek 5900, Univega Via Carisma, Globe Carmel
Mentioned: 199 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4560 Post(s)
Liked 2,802 Times
in
1,800 Posts
CHAIN LUBE THREAD!!!
Spoiler: Wax.
Spoiler: Wax.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,724
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5790 Post(s)
Liked 2,581 Times
in
1,431 Posts
You're in Houston and riding MUPs and doing OK. Given the circumstances, count your blessings and don't with against success. Yes, your chain will get dirty, but you can address that by dry wiping as needed.
OTOH - if you want to experiment, you should do so, even if only to prove that you can stay with your current method.
OTOH - if you want to experiment, you should do so, even if only to prove that you can stay with your current method.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
You're in Houston and riding MUPs and doing OK. Given the circumstances, count your blessings and don't with against success. Yes, your chain will get dirty, but you can address that by dry wiping as needed.
OTOH - if you want to experiment, you should do so, even if only to prove that you can stay with your current method.
OTOH - if you want to experiment, you should do so, even if only to prove that you can stay with your current method.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,724
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5790 Post(s)
Liked 2,581 Times
in
1,431 Posts
There's no magic answer, so it's a question of balancing the various issues according to your preference.
If you're happy, stay the course, if not, try something else.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#7
Senior Member
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Sorry.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,724
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5790 Post(s)
Liked 2,581 Times
in
1,431 Posts
IMO there's never a need to apologize for asking. That's what this forum is for. Folks are then free to answer or pass, or as they will engage in long debates on related or unrelated side issues. But that's not your fault.
Chain lube threads are especially problematic because there's no single answer, nor even two or three. The "best" approach (to the extent that there might be one) depends on the specifics including where and how people ride, their preferences about how chains look, and what they consider worthwhile in terms of cost or time to invest in chain care.
So, asking about chain lube is like asking which is better, steak or lobster, and you have to expect lots of partisanship, despite the fact that there's no answer.
As said of academic politics, the debate is so vicious because the stakes are so small.
Chain lube threads are especially problematic because there's no single answer, nor even two or three. The "best" approach (to the extent that there might be one) depends on the specifics including where and how people ride, their preferences about how chains look, and what they consider worthwhile in terms of cost or time to invest in chain care.
So, asking about chain lube is like asking which is better, steak or lobster, and you have to expect lots of partisanship, despite the fact that there's no answer.
As said of academic politics, the debate is so vicious because the stakes are so small.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#10
Me duelen las nalgas
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 13,513
Bikes: Centurion Ironman, Trek 5900, Univega Via Carisma, Globe Carmel
Mentioned: 199 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4560 Post(s)
Liked 2,802 Times
in
1,800 Posts
Serious answer: If you ride in the rain you may need to renew the wax lube more often. Even then I find it easier than messing with wet oil lubes.
Two of my three bikes are on wax now. The third will be converted to wax when I put on a new chain later this year.
How much difference does it make?
Last night I removed the freewheel from the road bike without cleaning up first, after a couple of weeks of rides on gritty, grubby rural chipseal and some gravel. Handling the waxed chain and relatively clean freewheel left only a few smudges on my fingers, which I wiped off with the paper napkin I'd used for dinner. Before I tackle the hub bearings this weekend I'd only need to wipe down the rims, spokes, hubs, etc., with a dry rag -- if I wasn't so particular about things. In reality I'll probably wash them outside first just to be sure.
But the hybrid that's still running an oiled chain (I've alternated between Park CL-1 and Tri-Flow)? No matter how carefully I apply the lube and thoroughly I wipe down the excess, even using a rag moistened with mineral spirits or alcohol, there's always just enough oil residue spattered onto the wheels, chain stays, bottom bracket, etc., to accumulate enough schmutz that the bike needs a thorough cleaning more often.
I hate wasting time on tedious cleanups. That's time I could be riding. Waxed chains minimize cleanup.
Renewing the wax is easy with the right equipment. I use a spinny brush chain cleaning doodad with water based solvent. I don't want to strip the wax, just wash out the little bit of debris between the plates. Dry it (usually over a high fan or the recirculating air filter), then dip it back into the crock pot of melted paraffin where it sits overnight. I have two identical chains for the road bike so I don't need to get to the chain immediately to be ready to ride. KMC Z72 chains and Missing Links, pop 'em on and off, ready to ride. When the freshly waxed chain is done I let it cool, roll it up and stick it in a heavy duty ziplock bag for next month. I rotate 'em about once a month since my mileage is about 400-500 miles per month on the road bike.
Two of my three bikes are on wax now. The third will be converted to wax when I put on a new chain later this year.
How much difference does it make?
- It's quieter and smoother shifting, especially on my road bike.
- It lasts longer per treatment than I'd expected -- usually about a month or 400-500 miles on the road bike. I did the errand bike in June and it hasn't needed any attention, although it gets ridden only 10-50 miles a month.
- It holds up to occasional rain or brief downpours. Rumors aside, it's not water soluble soap or cotton candy.
- It's much cleaner. No more chain tattoos on my legs, furniture and cats. I just wipe off the bike with a dry rag or microfiber mop. My bikes are in my apartment living room, so that's important.
- Easier cleanup overall. Less schmutz on the chainrings, freewheel/cassette, bottom bracket, chain stays, etc. I haven't washed the errand bike since June. It just doesn't accumulate schmutz anymore, even the rims.
Last night I removed the freewheel from the road bike without cleaning up first, after a couple of weeks of rides on gritty, grubby rural chipseal and some gravel. Handling the waxed chain and relatively clean freewheel left only a few smudges on my fingers, which I wiped off with the paper napkin I'd used for dinner. Before I tackle the hub bearings this weekend I'd only need to wipe down the rims, spokes, hubs, etc., with a dry rag -- if I wasn't so particular about things. In reality I'll probably wash them outside first just to be sure.
But the hybrid that's still running an oiled chain (I've alternated between Park CL-1 and Tri-Flow)? No matter how carefully I apply the lube and thoroughly I wipe down the excess, even using a rag moistened with mineral spirits or alcohol, there's always just enough oil residue spattered onto the wheels, chain stays, bottom bracket, etc., to accumulate enough schmutz that the bike needs a thorough cleaning more often.
I hate wasting time on tedious cleanups. That's time I could be riding. Waxed chains minimize cleanup.
Renewing the wax is easy with the right equipment. I use a spinny brush chain cleaning doodad with water based solvent. I don't want to strip the wax, just wash out the little bit of debris between the plates. Dry it (usually over a high fan or the recirculating air filter), then dip it back into the crock pot of melted paraffin where it sits overnight. I have two identical chains for the road bike so I don't need to get to the chain immediately to be ready to ride. KMC Z72 chains and Missing Links, pop 'em on and off, ready to ride. When the freshly waxed chain is done I let it cool, roll it up and stick it in a heavy duty ziplock bag for next month. I rotate 'em about once a month since my mileage is about 400-500 miles per month on the road bike.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 15,491
Bikes: 2015 Workswell 066, 2017 Workswell 093, 2014 Dawes Sheila, 1983 Cannondale 500, 1984 Raleigh Olympian, 2007 Cannondale Rize 4, 2017 Fuji Sportif 1 LE
Mentioned: 144 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7652 Post(s)
Liked 3,478 Times
in
1,836 Posts
Mr. Canklecat ... supposing I had a friend who didn't look anything like me or ride any of the bikes I ride <cough> ... who wanted to possibly test this ridiculous paraffin wax method you describe. Is there any special type of wax my friend should buy? Should he heat it in a double boiler? How easy is it to clean the pans afterwards (supposing my friend had a wife like mine who might freak out over such things)?
Just toss a couple ounces of wax in a pan, melt it, toss the chain in, and let it harden? Then yank the chain out with a pair of pliers, breaking the dried wax?
I had a chain break mid-ride last night ... and my friend saw how much crap I got on my hands and said A.) I need to bring nitrile gloves and B.) maybe that guy Canklecat has a solution.
Just toss a couple ounces of wax in a pan, melt it, toss the chain in, and let it harden? Then yank the chain out with a pair of pliers, breaking the dried wax?
I had a chain break mid-ride last night ... and my friend saw how much crap I got on my hands and said A.) I need to bring nitrile gloves and B.) maybe that guy Canklecat has a solution.
#12
Non omnino gravis
You just need plain paraffin. I bought 3lbs of it on Amazon for 8 bucks. I have used less than half a pound total, and I've been at this for months. My guess is I'm using around $2 a year in wax-- and I ride 10,000 miles a year.
A double-boiler would work, but the Little Dipper Crockpot may as well have been specifically made for the job. I never even bother to clean it out. Plug it in, then about an hour later drop in a chain. Leave the chain in there as long as you feel like. I try for an hour, usually forget it's in there and it ends up longer. I fish the chain out with a dental pick, give it a quick wipe with a cloth, and put it on the bike still piping hot-- I use a cheap pair of leather work gloves. I used to hang the chain to cool, but found it goes on a whole lot easier and lasts a bit longer when re-installed hot.
Later, you can order yourself a jar of powdered PTFE and mix some of that in. Supposedly it makes the chain faster or somesuch. It does make the chain feel slicker to the touch.
A double-boiler would work, but the Little Dipper Crockpot may as well have been specifically made for the job. I never even bother to clean it out. Plug it in, then about an hour later drop in a chain. Leave the chain in there as long as you feel like. I try for an hour, usually forget it's in there and it ends up longer. I fish the chain out with a dental pick, give it a quick wipe with a cloth, and put it on the bike still piping hot-- I use a cheap pair of leather work gloves. I used to hang the chain to cool, but found it goes on a whole lot easier and lasts a bit longer when re-installed hot.
Later, you can order yourself a jar of powdered PTFE and mix some of that in. Supposedly it makes the chain faster or somesuch. It does make the chain feel slicker to the touch.
#14
Me duelen las nalgas
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 13,513
Bikes: Centurion Ironman, Trek 5900, Univega Via Carisma, Globe Carmel
Mentioned: 199 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4560 Post(s)
Liked 2,802 Times
in
1,800 Posts
This.
I use plain Gulf wax. I might eventually try some PTFE or moly. I used to have moly powder and paste, popular with airgunners, but probably wouldn't buy more if it's all lost. Good lube but it will get stubborn black muck on stuff. PTFE would be cleaner.
I used a Little Dipper crock pot. Came free with my big crock pot. Never even used the Little Dipper until I was cleaning out a neglected kitchen cabinet and thought "Heeyyyyy...". Got a box of Gulf wax from the nearby hardware store. Melted about 3 bars in the little crock pot.
The only tricky bit is stripping the original factory lube. I used a sturdy plastic container with screw cap, shook up some mineral spirits followed by 91% isopropyl alcohol until the chain sounded clean. There's a distinct clinky, thin, pingy metallic sound to the chain when it's cleaned of any residual lube. Kinda like the difference between a new quarter and an old silver quarter, if you've handled both.
You just need plain paraffin. I bought 3lbs of it on Amazon for 8 bucks. I have used less than half a pound total, and I've been at this for months. My guess is I'm using around $2 a year in wax-- and I ride 10,000 miles a year.
A double-boiler would work, but the Little Dipper Crockpot may as well have been specifically made for the job. I never even bother to clean it out. Plug it in, then about an hour later drop in a chain. Leave the chain in there as long as you feel like. I try for an hour, usually forget it's in there and it ends up longer. I fish the chain out with a dental pick, give it a quick wipe with a cloth, and put it on the bike still piping hot-- I use a cheap pair of leather work gloves. I used to hang the chain to cool, but found it goes on a whole lot easier and lasts a bit longer when re-installed hot.
Later, you can order yourself a jar of powdered PTFE and mix some of that in. Supposedly it makes the chain faster or somesuch. It does make the chain feel slicker to the touch.
A double-boiler would work, but the Little Dipper Crockpot may as well have been specifically made for the job. I never even bother to clean it out. Plug it in, then about an hour later drop in a chain. Leave the chain in there as long as you feel like. I try for an hour, usually forget it's in there and it ends up longer. I fish the chain out with a dental pick, give it a quick wipe with a cloth, and put it on the bike still piping hot-- I use a cheap pair of leather work gloves. I used to hang the chain to cool, but found it goes on a whole lot easier and lasts a bit longer when re-installed hot.
Later, you can order yourself a jar of powdered PTFE and mix some of that in. Supposedly it makes the chain faster or somesuch. It does make the chain feel slicker to the touch.
I used a Little Dipper crock pot. Came free with my big crock pot. Never even used the Little Dipper until I was cleaning out a neglected kitchen cabinet and thought "Heeyyyyy...". Got a box of Gulf wax from the nearby hardware store. Melted about 3 bars in the little crock pot.
The only tricky bit is stripping the original factory lube. I used a sturdy plastic container with screw cap, shook up some mineral spirits followed by 91% isopropyl alcohol until the chain sounded clean. There's a distinct clinky, thin, pingy metallic sound to the chain when it's cleaned of any residual lube. Kinda like the difference between a new quarter and an old silver quarter, if you've handled both.
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 15,491
Bikes: 2015 Workswell 066, 2017 Workswell 093, 2014 Dawes Sheila, 1983 Cannondale 500, 1984 Raleigh Olympian, 2007 Cannondale Rize 4, 2017 Fuji Sportif 1 LE
Mentioned: 144 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7652 Post(s)
Liked 3,478 Times
in
1,836 Posts
Thanks both of you. I would have left the chain in overnight, turned off the heat, and then had to chip the chain free.
I might try this .... well, I mean my friend might.
I might try this .... well, I mean my friend might.
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: harrisburg, pennsylvania
Posts: 351
Bikes: 1976 Schwinn Super Le Tour, tricked out with modern components. Shimano Alfine 11 internal gear hub. Dynamo hub. Titanium racks and bottle cages. Mercier Kilo Wide Tire dropbar singlespeed
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Liked 8 Times
in
1 Post
Great wax summary
Serious answer: If you ride in the rain you may need to renew the wax lube more often. Even then I find it easier than messing with wet oil lubes.
Two of my three bikes are on wax now. The third will be converted to wax when I put on a new chain later this year.
How much difference does it make?
Last night I removed the freewheel from the road bike without cleaning up first, after a couple of weeks of rides on gritty, grubby rural chipseal and some gravel. Handling the waxed chain and relatively clean freewheel left only a few smudges on my fingers, which I wiped off with the paper napkin I'd used for dinner. Before I tackle the hub bearings this weekend I'd only need to wipe down the rims, spokes, hubs, etc., with a dry rag -- if I wasn't so particular about things. In reality I'll probably wash them outside first just to be sure.
But the hybrid that's still running an oiled chain (I've alternated between Park CL-1 and Tri-Flow)? No matter how carefully I apply the lube and thoroughly I wipe down the excess, even using a rag moistened with mineral spirits or alcohol, there's always just enough oil residue spattered onto the wheels, chain stays, bottom bracket, etc., to accumulate enough schmutz that the bike needs a thorough cleaning more often.
I hate wasting time on tedious cleanups. That's time I could be riding. Waxed chains minimize cleanup.
Renewing the wax is easy with the right equipment. I use a spinny brush chain cleaning doodad with water based solvent. I don't want to strip the wax, just wash out the little bit of debris between the plates. Dry it (usually over a high fan or the recirculating air filter), then dip it back into the crock pot of melted paraffin where it sits overnight. I have two identical chains for the road bike so I don't need to get to the chain immediately to be ready to ride. KMC Z72 chains and Missing Links, pop 'em on and off, ready to ride. When the freshly waxed chain is done I let it cool, roll it up and stick it in a heavy duty ziplock bag for next month. I rotate 'em about once a month since my mileage is about 400-500 miles per month on the road bike.
Two of my three bikes are on wax now. The third will be converted to wax when I put on a new chain later this year.
How much difference does it make?
- It's quieter and smoother shifting, especially on my road bike.
- It lasts longer per treatment than I'd expected -- usually about a month or 400-500 miles on the road bike. I did the errand bike in June and it hasn't needed any attention, although it gets ridden only 10-50 miles a month.
- It holds up to occasional rain or brief downpours. Rumors aside, it's not water soluble soap or cotton candy.
- It's much cleaner. No more chain tattoos on my legs, furniture and cats. I just wipe off the bike with a dry rag or microfiber mop. My bikes are in my apartment living room, so that's important.
- Easier cleanup overall. Less schmutz on the chainrings, freewheel/cassette, bottom bracket, chain stays, etc. I haven't washed the errand bike since June. It just doesn't accumulate schmutz anymore, even the rims.
Last night I removed the freewheel from the road bike without cleaning up first, after a couple of weeks of rides on gritty, grubby rural chipseal and some gravel. Handling the waxed chain and relatively clean freewheel left only a few smudges on my fingers, which I wiped off with the paper napkin I'd used for dinner. Before I tackle the hub bearings this weekend I'd only need to wipe down the rims, spokes, hubs, etc., with a dry rag -- if I wasn't so particular about things. In reality I'll probably wash them outside first just to be sure.
But the hybrid that's still running an oiled chain (I've alternated between Park CL-1 and Tri-Flow)? No matter how carefully I apply the lube and thoroughly I wipe down the excess, even using a rag moistened with mineral spirits or alcohol, there's always just enough oil residue spattered onto the wheels, chain stays, bottom bracket, etc., to accumulate enough schmutz that the bike needs a thorough cleaning more often.
I hate wasting time on tedious cleanups. That's time I could be riding. Waxed chains minimize cleanup.
Renewing the wax is easy with the right equipment. I use a spinny brush chain cleaning doodad with water based solvent. I don't want to strip the wax, just wash out the little bit of debris between the plates. Dry it (usually over a high fan or the recirculating air filter), then dip it back into the crock pot of melted paraffin where it sits overnight. I have two identical chains for the road bike so I don't need to get to the chain immediately to be ready to ride. KMC Z72 chains and Missing Links, pop 'em on and off, ready to ride. When the freshly waxed chain is done I let it cool, roll it up and stick it in a heavy duty ziplock bag for next month. I rotate 'em about once a month since my mileage is about 400-500 miles per month on the road bike.
#18
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the input. I am cleaning my chain currently about every 100-150 miles. Then again, i am somewhat OCD about it.
#19
Senior Member
Thread Starter
How many miles do you get out of a chain and does using wax make any difference in this?
#20
Mad bike riding scientist
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,363
Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones
Mentioned: 152 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6219 Post(s)
Liked 4,219 Times
in
2,366 Posts
There are some who will claim 100,000 miles on a chain but for the rest of us mortals, between 3000 and 4000 miles is about par for mileage on a chain. If you use wax or home brew motor oil/mineral spirits or WD40 or commercial oil based lubes or liquid wax based lubricants (which is still wax just in a more convenient form) or, perhaps, nothing, you will probably get about the same mileage. If you clean the chain every hour of every day or never clean it, you will probably get the same mileage.
The difference is that with some of the lubricants...wax and "dry" lubes...you won't have to spend all your time cleaning. I clean a chain once when I install it and never have to clean it again. So the question to ask is do you want to clean or would you rather ride?
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 15,491
Bikes: 2015 Workswell 066, 2017 Workswell 093, 2014 Dawes Sheila, 1983 Cannondale 500, 1984 Raleigh Olympian, 2007 Cannondale Rize 4, 2017 Fuji Sportif 1 LE
Mentioned: 144 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7652 Post(s)
Liked 3,478 Times
in
1,836 Posts
This sort of thing should never be tolerated.
The only reason I am considering wax is the cleaning issue he mentions. I tried White Lightning and a bunch of similar "Miracle Lubes" before settling down with a big old bottle of Tri-Flo, which I have just about emptied after a couple decades ... and it has always worked just fine. But ... it does ten to collect dirt.
#23
Non omnino gravis
But it is a friction reducer, and has been used as such for hundreds and hundreds of years. I'm getting significantly better results with wax than I did with any wet lubricant, and I tried a lot of them. So it is just as accurate to say, "anyone using wet lube is making a gigantic mess of their drivetrain for no defensible reason... unless they ride in pouring rain all the time."
#24
Senior Member
It might be cost prohibited but they make permanently lubricated chains for industrial use. Why don't they for bikes?
#25
Me duelen las nalgas
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 13,513
Bikes: Centurion Ironman, Trek 5900, Univega Via Carisma, Globe Carmel
Mentioned: 199 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4560 Post(s)
Liked 2,802 Times
in
1,800 Posts
Wax/paraffin ranked #1 in efficiency/lowest watts, in a test comparing just about every available lube -- wet, dry, thin, heavy: Velo/Friction Facts Chain Lube Efficiency Tests.
The test emphasized measured efficiency, not residual durability over time and in mixed weather. But it turned out wax/paraffin also performed well in bad weather.
The differences between all tested lubes would be negligible for most average cyclists in terms of efficiency, ranging from just under 5 watts to just over 7 watts. For my 35 lb errand bike with wide, heavy tires, squishy saddle and upright riding position, that difference wouldn't be noticeable.
What I do notice is the drivetrain is clean, which means my legs, furniture and cats are clean. And it's eliminated most routine cleaning. Same with the road bike, although I do care about power efficiency with that bike. If a hunk of the same stuff my grandmother used for canning peaches in Mason jars works to make my road bike more efficient, I'd be foolish to ignore it when similar power savings in tires would cost far more than a carton of Gulf wax.
But efficiency alone isn't enough reason to switch, if folks are already satisfied with their current lubes. The main advantage for me is it's cleaner, which means more time riding and less cleaning up.
The test emphasized measured efficiency, not residual durability over time and in mixed weather. But it turned out wax/paraffin also performed well in bad weather.
The differences between all tested lubes would be negligible for most average cyclists in terms of efficiency, ranging from just under 5 watts to just over 7 watts. For my 35 lb errand bike with wide, heavy tires, squishy saddle and upright riding position, that difference wouldn't be noticeable.
What I do notice is the drivetrain is clean, which means my legs, furniture and cats are clean. And it's eliminated most routine cleaning. Same with the road bike, although I do care about power efficiency with that bike. If a hunk of the same stuff my grandmother used for canning peaches in Mason jars works to make my road bike more efficient, I'd be foolish to ignore it when similar power savings in tires would cost far more than a carton of Gulf wax.
But efficiency alone isn't enough reason to switch, if folks are already satisfied with their current lubes. The main advantage for me is it's cleaner, which means more time riding and less cleaning up.