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Cassette change -- 11-30 to 11-32

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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Cassette change -- 11-30 to 11-32

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Old 09-30-19, 11:25 AM
  #51  
countyrider
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Crankset swap

I went through a similar analysis for much too long for my Specialized Roubaix. I ended up buying a Sugino 46/30 crankset from Alex in Japan. It was well worth it and there seem to be more and cheaper sub-sub compact cranksets now. And even more so if you know from the beginning that you need an adapter for the bottom bracket--I learned the hard way.
Mike


Originally Posted by Robert A
Been doing a lot of hill climbing lately and sometimes wish I had one more cog for the steepest hills. Current cassette is 11-30, and chainrings are 52-36. Bike is a CAAD12 with Ultegra mech.

I'm thinking of changing the cassette to 11-32. Going from 30t to 32t is a 7% reduction in effort and costs about $100 in parts (including the chain). Changing chainrings to 50-34 is way too expensive.

New wheels are coming, so there's a bit of a labor savings by not having to remove the 11-30 from the old wheel.

Is going to 11-32 worthwhile, or is it too close to matter?

Thanks,
Robert
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Old 09-30-19, 11:28 AM
  #52  
Rides4Beer
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Originally Posted by WhyFi
For me, gaps are only an issue in group rides and most they're most problematic when I'm juuuust hanging on to the group; it's the worst when one gear has your legs screaming and the next gear has them spinning wildly and there's no happy medium in between. Oh, the same applies to intervals on trainers without ERG mode. For solo rides? No problem - easing slightly and slowing .5mph doesn't mean losing the draft and having the group pull away from you.
That makes sense. I'll have to see how it does when I hit the group rides this week, so far it's only been solo. Well, yesterday's century there were three of us riding together, didn't have any issues, but it wasn't a hammerfest group ride either. lol
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Old 09-30-19, 12:18 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by countyrider
I went through a similar analysis for much too long for my Specialized Roubaix. I ended up buying a Sugino 46/30 crankset from Alex in Japan. It was well worth it and there seem to be more and cheaper sub-sub compact cranksets now. And even more so if you know from the beginning that you need an adapter for the bottom bracket--I learned the hard way.
Mike
I also bought a Sugino 46/30 crankset from Alex (with a spare 30 for the future) which has been fantastic, but now that Shimano GRX has 46/30 or 48/31 cranksets I’ve been going that route since availability (cranksets and replacement chainrings) should be much better. Shame it took Shimano so long, but at least we’re here now.
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Old 10-01-19, 08:16 AM
  #54  
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I just said "Screw It!" and Frankensteined my own cassette. I don't need tiny cogs for high speed, those days are long gone. I need more choices with fewer cadence jumps.

5 of the smallest cogs off of a 14-28 and the six larger off of an 11-34 with the result being

14-15-16-17-19-21-23-25-27-30-34 and a 50-34 on the front. Makes for good choices when doing rides like this...


Old La Honda Loop
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Old 10-01-19, 09:01 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by SCTinkering
I just said "Screw It!" and Frankensteined my own cassette. I don't need tiny cogs for high speed, those days are long gone. I need more choices with fewer cadence jumps.

5 of the smallest cogs off of a 14-28 and the six larger off of an 11-34 with the result being

14-15-16-17-19-21-23-25-27-30-34 and a 50-34 on the front. Makes for good choices when doing rides like this...


Old La Honda Loop
Yes, I'm trying to hang on to my fastest group rides around 18-22 mph, so I'm looking for very close shifts at those speeds. My 14-32 combo cassette is perfect. It's a straight block with climbing gears: 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 22 25 28 32


I posted the details here.

It's great for fast flat roads and steep hills. But I spin out around 29 mph, which is acceptable. If I have multiple mile-long downhills on a ride, I swap back to the 11-32, so I can soft pedal the downhills.

The other downside is having to shift 4 or 5 cogs when I shift the front. But that's easy with my Di2.
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Old 10-01-19, 09:26 AM
  #56  
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Get an E-bike. Problem solved. Eazy-Peezy.
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Old 10-01-19, 12:35 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Robert A
How can I identify which Shimano R8000 derailleur I have -- short cage and medium cage? Medium cage is required for cassettes larger than 30t.
My Ultegra derailleur actually has a 32T stamped into the metal on it (medium cage), but not sure if that is normal.

Before that I had an Ultegra short-cage on a different bike and it handled the 11-32T just fine. I went from starting out and doing plenty of climbing with a 28T (matched to 50/34 rings) and I felt that I got stronger that way. When I went to the 32T, I might be spinning on the cranks a little better, but I almost feel like my legs are weaker for it.

The trick in getting the 32T set properly, and this trick is necessary with short-cage, beneficial even with medium cage, is to put the B-screw in "backwards" so that head of the screw is actually pressing on the derailleur instead of the screw portion. This does two things: allows you to push the derailleur farther, and to make sure the screw actually connects at all. Usually past a point, the derailleur will end up resting on the side of the screw when it's the normal way and you can't make the derailleur move anymore. Putting it in from the other direction, and letting the screw head itself provide contact with the derailleur, is actually more effective.
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Old 10-01-19, 01:07 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Newspaper_Nick
Look man, if you are in your twenties, just deal with it. You don't really need that 32 yet. Wait until you get to your thirties. Then you can get it. And you can go 1x with dinner plate cogs when you are in your fifties Don't think much about it. We are all headed to the same destination.
I'm 65 and 205 pounds and I climb about 300,000 feet per year. I use a 34x29 low gear for everything including Mt Baldy ski lifts, Hwy 39, etc. Of the age 60+ riders I ride with, I am the slowest climber. I've ridden with a 50+ cat 1 and lots of exceptional 65+ men and women. One woman I know is 68 and she can out climb a lot of much younger riders.

None of these riders use any super low gears, most not even as low as I do.
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Old 10-01-19, 02:07 PM
  #59  
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Have you tried looking for a Ultegra GS replacement cage? I had a 6800 GS cage that I stripped the threads for the upper pulley and was able to get a replacement on Amazon. The SS and GS for the 6800 are identical except for the cage length. It may be the same(but you may want to double check that). It's may be cheaper to change out the pulley cage to a GS and then you would have the ability to get the 11x34 cassette and not worry about the chainrings.
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Old 10-01-19, 06:49 PM
  #60  
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My 2015 Giant Defy had an Ultegra 6800 SS (short cage) and it worked great with an 11-32 cassette. The Giant store swapped out the stock 11-28 to an 11-32 at my request when I purchased the bike. I asked about running a 32T with the SS cage and they said it would handle it no problem and it did.
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Old 10-01-19, 10:36 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by August West
My 2015 Giant Defy had an Ultegra 6800 SS (short cage) and it worked great with an 11-32 cassette. The Giant store swapped out the stock 11-28 to an 11-32 at my request when I purchased the bike. I asked about running a 32T with the SS cage and they said it would handle it no problem and it did.
Giants are known for long hangers, which makes a larger cassettes a breeze.
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