TRP Spyre Spring too weak
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
TRP Spyre Spring too weak
One of my TRP Spyre mechanical brakes doesn't have the same spring back it once had (the other one is fine). I have cleaned and lubed it with marginal difference. any advice on what else I can do to increase the spring force to its original?
#2
Banned
meaning the typical spreader spring you get with the new pads, ? that goes in between them? (Only own their HyRd, which has none)
TRP brakes > https://www.trpcycling.com/contact/ .> For CDN :
....
TRP brakes > https://www.trpcycling.com/contact/ .> For CDN :
- mail: AftermarketDivision@livetoplaysports.com
- Website: www.livetoplaysports.com
....
Last edited by fietsbob; 02-19-19 at 10:10 AM.
#3
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Bend it out.
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A long used tandem drag brake cable trick is to add a coil spring over the cable between the casing stop and the anchor bolt/arm. Not done this yet on a Spyre so don't know how realistic it is on this brake. But I have done it on other disk calipers with some improvement in pad retraction/cable movement. Also having levers that have a return spring helps a tiny amount.
Rant time- I "thank" Shimano for introducing us to weakly sprung calipers and derailleurs. Andy.
Rant time- I "thank" Shimano for introducing us to weakly sprung calipers and derailleurs. Andy.
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#6
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#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I mean that there is normally spring tension to keep the pads in the normal open position. when you release the brake it does not return to the normal position as it should. This is not a cable issue as it's the same when disconnected from the cable.
#8
Banned
Must be the weather , locally..eh? you consulted a local Bike Shop yet? or the manufacturer's rep office, I listed?
My BB7 discs had a spreader spring between the pads, I replaced The pads once then replaced them entirely with the Hy Rd ..
My BB7 discs had a spreader spring between the pads, I replaced The pads once then replaced them entirely with the Hy Rd ..
#9
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not yet, but I will. thanks for the info.
#10
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The Spyre calipers have two pivot points, one ether side, and they are prone to collecting a bit of muck which can make them drag a bit. That makes the brakes slightly harder to pull, and restricts the caliper's urge to spring back open when cable tension is released.
As standard, Spyres' internal springs are arguably on the too-strong side so I'd recommend cleaning and lubricating the pivots well and then re-trying - you should be able to get a very snappy return. Do this with the calipers removed from the bike and disconnected from the cables to eliminate cable drag which can cause similar issues.
I have focused on the caliper's internal spring because I am familiar with that problem, but as has already been noted, you need the replaceable pad separating spring to be doing its job properly too.
As standard, Spyres' internal springs are arguably on the too-strong side so I'd recommend cleaning and lubricating the pivots well and then re-trying - you should be able to get a very snappy return. Do this with the calipers removed from the bike and disconnected from the cables to eliminate cable drag which can cause similar issues.
I have focused on the caliper's internal spring because I am familiar with that problem, but as has already been noted, you need the replaceable pad separating spring to be doing its job properly too.
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I agree. I can understand to a limited degree that lighter derailleur springs MAY make sense. But there's no reason for brake springs to be so weak. A positive return is highly desirable, and the tiny added resistance when applied, is meaningless in the scheme of things.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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