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Old 01-31-20, 04:11 PM
  #51  
Hobbit712
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Originally Posted by Lazyass View Post
Oh mother of god what a sweet ride. You can see my sandy trails. A 26x3.0 at 18psi makes it feel like dirt. Everything about the bike is perfect, besides the non-functional junk dropper post.

I too loved the first ride. I checked the tire pressure and both were about 20psi. I left them there for now. I still need to raise the seat just a bit. Didn't really need the dropper post since my local trails are pretty flat.
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Old 02-09-20, 09:53 AM
  #52  
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So my tires came with tubes and I wanted to convert it to tubeless, despite all the problems I've read people have had dealing with tubeless. Never used them myself. Got my valves and sealant and went to work yesterday because I was planning on riding all day today.

HOLY FU**ING SHI*

This is a nightmare I never dreamed of. It's just not happening and my riding plans for today have gone up in flames. After a few hours I have accomplished getting the tube out of the front tire. That's it. I refuse to buy an air compressor just to mount freaking bicycle tires and even if I wanted to, or wanted to use one at the gas station, I have no presta adapter and no place to buy one because I live in the country with no bike shops. I can't do the put the tube back in/pump up to seat bead method because I CAN'T GET THE DAMN BEAD BACK OFF TO PUT THE TUBE BACK IN. And now I also know if I get a bad puncture on the trail or a sidewall cut, using a tube to make it back just isn't going to happen. I'll be screwed. I'm pissed beyond words. Sorry, had to rant. I don't even want to look at the damn bike now.
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Old 02-09-20, 11:00 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Lazyass View Post
So my tires came with tubes and I wanted to convert it to tubeless, despite all the problems I've read people have had dealing with tubeless. Never used them myself. Got my valves and sealant and went to work yesterday because I was planning on riding all day today.

HOLY FU**ING SHI*

This is a nightmare I never dreamed of. It's just not happening and my riding plans for today have gone up in flames. After a few hours I have accomplished getting the tube out of the front tire. That's it. I refuse to buy an air compressor just to mount freaking bicycle tires and even if I wanted to, or wanted to use one at the gas station, I have no presta adapter and no place to buy one because I live in the country with no bike shops. I can't do the put the tube back in/pump up to seat bead method because I CAN'T GET THE DAMN BEAD BACK OFF TO PUT THE TUBE BACK IN. And now I also know if I get a bad puncture on the trail or a sidewall cut, using a tube to make it back just isn't going to happen. I'll be screwed. I'm pissed beyond words. Sorry, had to rant. I don't even want to look at the damn bike now.
Well son of a gun. I'm guessing mine are tubes as well. I'll just run them that way for a while I guess based upon your nightmare.
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Old 02-09-20, 11:22 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Hobbit712 View Post
Well son of a gun. I'm guessing mine are tubes as well. I'll just run them that way for a while I guess based upon your nightmare.
In 30+ years no mechanic has ever touched my bikes. But I think I'll have to run into town and have someone do these damn wheels. I've already busted one tire lever and I'm afraid I'll end up damaging the beads. What I really don't like is when I'm out on the trail it will always be in my head that if I get a puncture and the sealant won't work, which happens, I'll be walking because there's no way in hell I would be able to put a tube in. I don't like that. Sometimes old technology is just better no matter what the new generation says, and this is a prime example.

That being said, if I were you I would convert it to tubeless because your chances of getting a flat are reduced. You aren't going to be able to take that tube out and patch/replace it on the trail. At least I sure as hell ain't.

Last edited by Lazyass; 02-09-20 at 11:25 AM.
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Old 02-09-20, 11:31 AM
  #55  
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I've gotten hard beads off by stepping on the tire, heel closest to the rim as possible, and pulling up with the wheel.

With getting the tires to seal, I've had wheels that were super easy where my basic floor pump seated it with no problem, and some I needed a compressor with. Using a schrader to presta adapter limits the air flow to the tire so those didn't work. It does help to remove the core from the valve to get more air flow. Also, make sure your tape job is good, otherwise you may have to redo it.
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Old 02-09-20, 04:22 PM
  #56  
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Hobbit712

Success! With no damn air compressor lol. These WTB's are hella tight so here is what you need:

A good tire lever that has a deep hook like Pedro's. I dug around and found an old one I had. A heatgun or a hair dryer. I read about the hair dryer method but I had a heat gun. Get an empty spray bottle and mix some dish soap with water to use as lubricant. For air I used my regular floor pump, didn't need a compressor. And of course a valve core remover. You can use a chain breaker if you have one, it fits. A spoke wrench will also work.

When you deflate the tire and go to initially push the bead off the rim hook you will see it won't hardly move. Use a heat gun/hair dryer to heat up a section of the rim and bead, it will expand the aluminum and soften the rubber. When I did that I was able to actually push the bead off the rim hook with my hand but you might need to stick a tire lever in there. Once you get a tiny section popped off the rest comes off with little effort.

Pull the bead off the rim with a tire lever and pull the tube out. Then install tubeless valve stem.

Before you go to pry the tire back on spray the dish soap lubricant all around the rim and bead. Pry on as much as you can by hand then use a tire lever for the rest like any regular tire. When it's all lubed up it goes on fairly easily. Since I messed with the tire so many times it did seem to get easier, I probably stretched the rubber out. I may even be able to install an emergency tube on the trail.

Now you're left with having to just press the bead into the rim hook. In the video below go to the 3:00 mark and do what he does, it's hard to explain. If your lever doesn't have a deep hook it will probably keep coming off. I again lubed everything before I did it. With the valve stem at the 12:00 I started at the 9:00, went up and past the 12. After I got it about 3/4 beaded it got too tight to do more. So I removed the valve core and attached my floor pump. I was sure it wasn't going to hold air but..........

Since it was beaded at the stem and on the majority of the tire it actually held air,and when I got to about 25psi there was a loud pop as the entire tire beaded. DONE.

Then squirt the sealant through the valve stem and you're done.




If you're like me and stupidly pop the bead off the opposite side (I don't know why I did that) or if you're installing a new tire then do this:

Mount the tire on one side, install the tube, then mount the other side as if you were just installing a tube in a regular tire. Then you're left with each side unbeaded. Lube both sides then inflate the tube until the beads pop into the rim hooks. Pop off one bead and remove tube. Now you're left with one side beaded and the other not. Then just follow all instructions above.......


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Old 02-09-20, 04:27 PM
  #57  
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BTW, I weighed everything on my scale and chopped off over a half a pound from each wheel. These tubes are huge.
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Old 02-10-20, 07:38 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Lazyass View Post
BTW, I weighed everything on my scale and chopped off over a half a pound from each wheel. These tubes are huge.
Glad you got that all worked out! I'm gonna leave mine as is for now though.
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Old 02-10-20, 07:56 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by AlmostGreenGuy View Post
I still maintain a stable of 26" mountain bikes. Yes they're old, and outdated in comparison to modern mountain bikes. But for the trails that I ride on, which are mostly hard pack double track and carriage trails, a modern mountain bike is not required. 26" is cheap and perfectly suited to less demanding off-road fun.

Here's an old lugged 1990 Trek 950 that I just brought back from the dead.





This is the 1993 Rockhopper that I use for bikepacking.

I love what you have here. What wheels and tires do you have on the Trek ?

Last edited by Rajflyboy; 02-10-20 at 07:59 AM.
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Old 02-10-20, 08:03 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by Rajflyboy View Post
I love what you have here. What wheels and tires do you have on the Trek ?
Schwalbe 26X2.25 Table Tops. Very supple. Very light in weight. Kind of expensive, in comparison to my usually cheapies. I just finished the build, and it's the middle of winter here in Upstate New York, so I haven't had a chance to test them off-road yet. But they're awesome for curb hopping.
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Old 02-10-20, 08:48 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by Lazyass View Post
So my tires came with tubes and I wanted to convert it to tubeless, despite all the problems I've read people have had dealing with tubeless. Never used them myself. Got my valves and sealant and went to work yesterday because I was planning on riding all day today.

HOLY FU**ING SHI*

This is a nightmare I never dreamed of. It's just not happening and my riding plans for today have gone up in flames. After a few hours I have accomplished getting the tube out of the front tire. That's it. I refuse to buy an air compressor just to mount freaking bicycle tires and even if I wanted to, or wanted to use one at the gas station, I have no presta adapter and no place to buy one because I live in the country with no bike shops. I can't do the put the tube back in/pump up to seat bead method because I CAN'T GET THE DAMN BEAD BACK OFF TO PUT THE TUBE BACK IN. And now I also know if I get a bad puncture on the trail or a sidewall cut, using a tube to make it back just isn't going to happen. I'll be screwed. I'm pissed beyond words. Sorry, had to rant. I don't even want to look at the damn bike now.
I've set up tubeless on those same exact wheels. Was a piece of cake. Not sure why you had so much trouble.

And you don't need an air compressor or gas station.

https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/e...olorCode=black

https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/e...olorCode=black
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Old 02-10-20, 12:31 PM
  #62  
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Nice wheelset on the Trek as well 👍
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Old 02-10-20, 12:59 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by prj71 View Post
I've set up tubeless on those same exact wheels. Was a piece of cake. Not sure why you had so much trouble.

And you don't need an air compressor or gas station.

https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/e...olorCode=black

https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/e...olorCode=black
Did you install the WTB Ranger tires? That's what matters and those are some freakishly tight tires. I know others go on easier because I went through 1000 you tube videos. And I used my regular floor pump.
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Old 02-10-20, 04:27 PM
  #64  
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Well, the nightmare has begun again. Noticed the tire was losing air. It's leaking from the valve. I pulled the valve out and did the method of using a small piece of rubber from an old tube and putting the valve through that to help it seal, made sure the tape was trimmed around the hole and it's still leaking. Apparently it could be leaking from anywhere and my last option is to pull the f****** tire and retape it or some BS. And of course I already put the sealant in it so now that will be $$ wasted.

Tubeless freaking sucks. Straight up sucks. I might make my 1 1/2 hour round trip to the shop to have them do it then sell the goda** bike and just ride my old Cannondale F4.
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Old 02-10-20, 07:03 PM
  #65  
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Just take it down to local bike shop

they will hook you up and fix it all for you (doesn’t cost much if anything)
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Old 02-10-20, 08:41 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Lazyass View Post
Well, the nightmare has begun again. Noticed the tire was losing air. It's leaking from the valve. I pulled the valve out and did the method of using a small piece of rubber from an old tube and putting the valve through that to help it seal, made sure the tape was trimmed around the hole and it's still leaking. Apparently it could be leaking from anywhere and my last option is to pull the f****** tire and retape it or some BS. And of course I already put the sealant in it so now that will be $$ wasted.

Tubeless freaking sucks. Straight up sucks. I might make my 1 1/2 hour round trip to the shop to have them do it then sell the goda** bike and just ride my old Cannondale F4.
spraying the wheel with a spray bottle of Dawn and water can help you locate leaks.
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Old 02-10-20, 10:09 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by Lazyass View Post
Well, the nightmare has begun again. Noticed the tire was losing air. It's leaking from the valve. I pulled the valve out and did the method of using a small piece of rubber from an old tube and putting the valve through that to help it seal, made sure the tape was trimmed around the hole and it's still leaking. Apparently it could be leaking from anywhere and my last option is to pull the f****** tire and retape it or some BS. And of course I already put the sealant in it so now that will be $$ wasted.

Tubeless freaking sucks. Straight up sucks. I might make my 1 1/2 hour round trip to the shop to have them do it then sell the goda** bike and just ride my old Cannondale F4.
Go back to tubes and try another day when you are calmer.

You could probably save the sealant if you are careful, the tape is a loss though.
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Old 02-11-20, 08:31 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by Lazyass View Post
Did you install the WTB Ranger tires? That's what matters and those are some freakishly tight tires. I know others go on easier because I went through 1000 you tube videos. And I used my regular floor pump.
They were WTB trailboss tires on WTB scraper wheels.
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Old 02-11-20, 08:33 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Lazyass View Post
Well, the nightmare has begun again. Noticed the tire was losing air. It's leaking from the valve. I pulled the valve out and did the method of using a small piece of rubber from an old tube and putting the valve through that to help it seal, made sure the tape was trimmed around the hole and it's still leaking. Apparently it could be leaking from anywhere and my last option is to pull the f****** tire and retape it or some BS. And of course I already put the sealant in it so now that will be $$ wasted.

Tubeless freaking sucks. Straight up sucks. I might make my 1 1/2 hour round trip to the shop to have them do it then sell the goda** bike and just ride my old Cannondale F4.
What valve stems did you use? You really shouldn't be having this much trouble.
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Old 02-14-20, 05:44 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by Lazyass View Post
Well, the nightmare has begun again. Noticed the tire was losing air. It's leaking from the valve. I pulled the valve out and did the method of using a small piece of rubber from an old tube and putting the valve through that to help it seal, made sure the tape was trimmed around the hole and it's still leaking. Apparently it could be leaking from anywhere and my last option is to pull the f****** tire and retape it or some BS. And of course I already put the sealant in it so now that will be $$ wasted.

Tubeless freaking sucks. Straight up sucks. I might make my 1 1/2 hour round trip to the shop to have them do it then sell the goda** bike and just ride my old Cannondale F4.
You ever get this worked out?
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Old 02-15-20, 03:44 PM
  #71  
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I had a specailized 26 rockhopper 2017 i think. the frame cracked on it and as Specialized don't do 26" any more they agave me a new 29er. absolutely gutted to start with. 26er area lot more nimble but for the ageing rider a 29er feels a lot quicker for the same energy
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Old 02-16-20, 09:28 PM
  #72  
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not all bikes are equal,
started on 26rs like most then got my first 29 (Lenz Leviathan) which felt like I was 10ft high.
After a few trials found the perfect 29r (Banshee Prime) but then found more love with a 29+ Carver and 29 SS Niner, which then I switched to 27.5+ for the Banshee and couldn't ride my Klein Rascal or Ellsworth Specialist.
Then my buddy sold me his first Gen Ibis Mojo and I fell back in love with 26r for a bit. Reforked the Ellsworth but the Klein still feels terrible.

In the end ride what you got, trends and preferences change. Wheel sizes don't mount up to a hill of bean
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Old 02-19-20, 12:16 AM
  #73  
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thinking on a 26 proyect

so, here is the thing
there are.some friends that are starting to go to mtb competions and have invited me to ride bikes.
I just have a road bike and a urban bike so i took both to a recreational ride and survived (its a park but some parts are rocky)
and there are some shimano 26" mt55 rims laying around the shop (it seems we wont sell them anytime soon
soooo i thought about buying and old mtb frame and have the mtb bike as a proyect.
i once made an old trek frame proyect but that bike is not longer with me and had v brakes, this rims are for 9-10 sp and have disc brakes
so, my question is (this seems like a good place instead of starting a thread) what kind of frame will you recommend for this proyect?
i already have the rims and im thinking on making it 9x3 and have a new suntour fork
will.appreciate the input y'all
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Old 02-28-20, 06:03 PM
  #74  
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Just picked up a Dawes Haymaker 1200

keeping the 26er theme alive in my family (I have enough of them now that I will always be able to pillage parts together to keep one running at all times (this one has disc brakes)

I still love the 26er and ride them daily
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Old 03-05-20, 04:21 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by Rajflyboy View Post
Will they ever make a comeback or are they ancient history?

industry appears to be going mostly all 29er now
I have a 10 year old 26" mountain bike. It's my only mountain bike and it still works perfectly.

To be fair, I've wanted to replace it for some time, but when I look at the market I see no reason to do it. I just don't like what's available:
- I'd have to spend at least twice what my current bike cost to have a new bike with a similar weight.
- I just hate 1x. It lacks range compared to my triple, and the steps are huge. I just can't consider it.
- 2x is bearable, but still lacks range. I just don't get it.
- Most current bikes have crappy components compared to my bike, even if they cost twice what I paid 10 years ago.
- I've tried 29" and made zero difference on my ride times (not that I care), and felt like driving a bus.
- I hate modern ultrawide handlebars with a passion. Who designed that unergonomic crap? I know it's easy to cut them, but why do all modern bikes come with that POS? which also makes me wonder: why bar ends are out of fashion? they're ergonomic, give you multiple hand positions, wheight nothing and are really useful for XC... It seems to me that everything revolves around aesthetics now.

So here I am... as long as there are parts available and it doesn't break in half, I think I'm not going to replace it.
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