Using older Deore XT brake levers with mech. disc brakes
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Using older Deore XT brake levers with mech. disc brakes
Since my last question proved so much fun, I have a new question.
Which position should I use for best stopping power? Existing bike has Avid BB5 mechanical disc calipers. Bike is 10 year old bike Performance Access XCL 9r that was given to me years ago. It was built up from the frame, Imtold, with what he had on hand. I am replacing the Salsa Woodchipper bars and brifters, for Microshift shifters, and these older Deore XT BL-M739 levers. All going on a 750mm Bontrager bar... It was a decent ride with the drop bars, but now I want the better leverage of MTB bars.
Thanks in advance.
Edit. Apparently my phone spell check doesn't like "Deore"...
Which position should I use for best stopping power? Existing bike has Avid BB5 mechanical disc calipers. Bike is 10 year old bike Performance Access XCL 9r that was given to me years ago. It was built up from the frame, Imtold, with what he had on hand. I am replacing the Salsa Woodchipper bars and brifters, for Microshift shifters, and these older Deore XT BL-M739 levers. All going on a 750mm Bontrager bar... It was a decent ride with the drop bars, but now I want the better leverage of MTB bars.
Thanks in advance.
Edit. Apparently my phone spell check doesn't like "Deore"...
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Are the BB5 the mountain bike version? If so, the levers look to be in the correct position (V brake for long pull).
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The outer long pull position will work with linear pull aka V brakes or MTB disc brakes. The inner short pull position goes with cantilever and most road brakes... including road disc calipers. And the briefly popular under chainstay U brakes, I think.
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Aren’t those the “servo” XTs? I have a set of those.
If you want to get the most out of those, remove the spacers. The idea is that the cable starts in the position shown when the lever is all the way out, thus pulling more cable to close the gap between pads and rim (or rotor, in this case), and then as the lever gets closer to the bar, the little cam lets the cable slide down to a position that increases the leverage when the pads are on the rim/rotor.
If you want to get the most out of those, remove the spacers. The idea is that the cable starts in the position shown when the lever is all the way out, thus pulling more cable to close the gap between pads and rim (or rotor, in this case), and then as the lever gets closer to the bar, the little cam lets the cable slide down to a position that increases the leverage when the pads are on the rim/rotor.
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Actually, any fixed position on that will work with V-brakes. The inner position is higher leverage, and gives less pad clearance, but should still work. I have run both v-brakes and mech discs using that position when I did not have them set up “servo” style like I mention above.
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