robertj298 

I have a couple of my vintage bikes that need the pedals rebuilt and I would rather pay someone
to do it than to mess around getting the right tools to do it myself. I have a Miyata 615 with Sakai
SR SP-155 pedals and a Sequoia with Specialized racing pedals.

SurferRosa

I rebuild most of mine. It's pretty easy if everything is in good order. It does takes some trial and error to get it perfect.

dedhed

Generally the hardest part is the limited working space to hold cones etc when adjusting.
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...cone-tool.html

thorstein

I rebuilt my SP-155s around a year ago. They were the first pedals I had done. No special tools needed, the trickiest part was eliminating play, but that wasn't even very hard.

Love those pedals!

davester

It's no harder than rebuilding a hub. You just need a cone wrench and a dust cap removal tool (can often substitute pliers and some tape to protect the cap from the jaws).

desconhecido 

the SR SP155 touring pedals are among my favorite. I've rebuilt several sets and it's easy. The cap comes off with an allen wrench, 6mm I think, but maybe 5. The lock nut inside takes 10mm wrench and the cone takes a 15mm socket. There is an anti-rotation washer between the cone and the lock nut so what I do is make the cone a little tight, snug up the hex nut, put the 15mm socket on the cone (swallowing the 10mm hex) and rotate ccw to tighten the cone against the washer and lock nut. Bob's your uncle every time. The trickiest thing about these pedals is the itty bitty balls -- 1/8" I think. I believe it's the only thing I have with 1/8" balls, 5/32" is more typical, in my experience. If you're worried about losing balls or want to replace them and you want to buy some new balls before you start, each pedal takes 24 to 26 balls. I've opened up these pedals to find as few as 11 balls in a race to as many as 13. Seems that SR was not too fussy.

The Specialized pedals I've no experience with.

3alarmer 

.
...you can also use a 15mm crank bolt wrench to hold the cone, which leaves the locking nut exposed for your convenient access with almost any 10 mm socket.

Velo Mule

While all of your suggestions are correct, they are not what Robertj is looking for. He wants to pay someone to rebuild them for him. This is a possible business opportunity. Perhaps the Freewheel Spa might expand into doing another component with small ball bearings. It would seem to be a natural fit. PastorBob??

Perhaps a BikeForum member might want to make a few dollars on the rebuild.

SurferRosa

Sorta. I can get a cone wrench on some pedal cones, like Campy Record and KKT Pro Ace. But I cannot fit a regular cone wrench on my KKT Top Run pedals ... and many others. So I use trial and error and rely the toothed lock washer to lock the nut to the cone. If the washer tooth is busted, it must be replaced in order to continue.

I generally use a pedal wrench on the crank arm side of the pedal axle to keep it in place while tightening the lock nut against the washer/cone using a socket wrench.

zukahn1 

I rebuild lube replace bearings on pedals if there nice pedals can rebuild them several times. You will need a couple of cone wrenches,, thin walled sockets the right size some good needle nose pliers a small screw driver, some good sticky grease an assortment of new small bearings (a lot of pedals take two different sizes for per pedal and hour or two of time and a lot pf patience. It often takes me longer to do a rebuild on a set of pedals than a set of wheels including basic true, tire take off and remount.

retrodude

I've rebuilt many pedals over the years when the bearing races are not worn out. Never used a cone wrench. Typically there is a washer with a tooth under the lock nut that prevents the cone from turning. Just strip em' down, degrease and reassemble with new grease. I use a flat blade screw driver to rotate the cone between testing the bearing play after lock nut tightening. If the axle feels tight, loosen the lock nut, rotate the cone with a blade screw driver and re-tighten the lock nut until bearing play is gone

repechage

Sometimes you have to modify a tool-
a set of Lyotards I did just recently needed a home made dust cap wrench ( Campy was close but not) and a ground down socket to engage the cone with confidence.

don’t overpack with grease- a “25%” fill is plenty and tweezers to place the bearings

a vice or vice grip with protection can be your third hand.

some planning required, a clean dead flannel nightgown for laying out bits... Lanz of Salzburg are terrific...

polymorphself 

I can’t help but smile at the natural and reflexive responses here. Everyone is so eager to give advice and tutorials and even type out full explanations. It’s why this forum is so great, and even if the OP doesn’t use the advice, we’ve now got a thread full of instructions for anyone looking to rebuild their pedals.

That being said, we gotta suck it up sometimes and just admit that some people want it done the easy way, and there are many perfectly good reasons for that. It’s like pastor bob with his freewheel service. It’s just the right route for some and I think we have the resources here to cater to that as well.

Heres hoping someone steps up to the plate and makes a few bucks along the way!

JohnDThompson 

For Campagnolo pedals at least, a 14mm peanut butter wrench like the Park CCW-14 or Park CCW 14-15-16mm wrench is a better fit.

It is also helpful to hold the pedal axle in an axle vise to secure things while you're working on the bearings.

Manny66 

A USPS Flat Rate box that would fit those pedals runs about $7.60 each way, still not a bad $ involved if you dont have the tools or grease or the patience do deal with tiny little metal balls.

BTW, I always lay down a towel on my work bench when dealing with bearings to keep them from running off the bench and into the "mystery hole" where some of my socks and keys are also hiding.

francophile 

I get the sense you're looking for someone to rebuild for you, so this advice may be totally fruitless, I'm just sharing an experience you may find interesting.

You'd be amazed at what you can accomplish on pedals without a teardown and rebuild. If you remove the pedal cap, then spray in a light petroleum-based product like PB Blaster, which dissolves even the hardest and oldest of hardened grease, then spin freely for a couple of minutes to really work it around, then blow it all out or flush, you can manage a fairly significant cleaning. I keep a small crock pot on my shop table, remove all the plastic parts from the pedal, then run a pedal at a time overnight, the latent heat will evaporate any water after draining (or you can bake at 150-170°F for 20min). After drying and cooling, follow back up with a syringe of your preferred grease and work it around. I learned this trick (not sure if "trick" or "hack", but whatever) from one of the veterans at a shop I worked at decades ago as a late-teen.

Granted, this won't give you a chance to look at the races to see if they're in good shape. It won't replace worn bearings or races. It *will* flush out caked grease and grit, then replace with a good lube, and get your pedals spinning freely again - just doing the PB blaster spray will accomplish that, but it will also liquefy any grease inside and/or lower its viscosity. I've used it a number of times on pedals in the bin I use for my flip bikes and on our kids smaller BMX bikes.

robertj298 

I found someone local that will do them for $20 a pair. Seems fair to me