xanthochrome

I haven't been on here in years, but have been riding my mom's custom bike that everyone was so helpful with before. The frame builder is still a mystery, but it is a custom 12-speed from the mid-1980's. Here's a picture!



Yesterday I discovered that, since I occasionally commute on this bike, I get $360 per calendar year to spend on bicycle-related things. I can use $180 before December 31, 2020 and another $360 any time in 2021. I don't want to spend much more than this in total, though I will get the benefit again in 2022.

So far I'm considering:

• changing the 27" wheels to 700c's. Someone on here mentioned that the frame appears to have been built with 700c wheels in mind and I can't fully inflate my 27x1 Panaracer Paselas without a bit of rubbing while riding (this was not an issue with my mom's old tires and it doesn't rub when I'm not actually on the bike, so I know it's very close). I'm near Harris Cyclery and someone on the phone suggested one of these two wheelsets but I am open to anything in budget (most of my components are Shimano 600, so I would slightly prefer to match that if getting vintage). If it makes a difference, I weigh ~135 pounds and mostly ride on a MUP or in bike lanes
  • related, does anyone know of any other 27" tires that might be less 'tall' than the Paselas so I can keep my wheels? They could probably be up to 1 1/4" wide if they were flatter
• rechroming the frame and fork as there is currently pitting/rust in a few places (especially the seat cluster). It seems like this will cost somewhere around $300
  from my quick google
• better lights (I still need to look into specific options -- I really only ride during the day in good weather, so this hasn't been a high priority)
• some sort of locking skewers (I currently remove the front wheel and lock everything up together if I'm worried, but that's obviously a bit inconvenient). It seems like a lot of these locking skewers are much longer than the rear triangle width on my bike -- would this be an issue?
• a lighter-weight lock for short lock-ups (I have a Kryptonite New York Standard currently, I'm thinking of getting the new Kryptonite Evolution LITE Mini-6)

Any thoughts or other specific suggestions? I'm definitely still a newbie, so thanks again for all of your help in the past and now!

thumpism 

First, tell us the specifics of how we can get paid to upgrade our machines.

thook

if 1" tires are rubbing, it might be a trial and error trying to work around picking tires to fit. perhaps the old ones just had less tread so they didn't rub? right now there's a vintage wheelset with 600 hubs and wolber alpin rims 700c on ebay for a bit over $100. i'll see if they're still available and post a link....for your considerations

edit: oops...they're matrix rims. still...600 hubs. black rims may not be what you're looking for, though
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Trek-Matrix...f9e3d2|iid%3A1

nlerner

I think either of those wheelsets would be fine. You might opt for 32mm Panaracer Pasela or smooth tread Gravel Kings, which should be in your budget. For a lightweight lock, I use an Ottolock cinch band: https://ottodesignworks.com/shop/ottolock

thook

that's clever!

thook

maybe not 600 hubs, but they are shimano w/ silver rims...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Late-1980-s...YAAOSw8WJfXQpj

ryansu

Nice tires, ostrich Ortlieb bags for commuting some lights perhaps a front wheel built with a Dynamo hub if you are going to commute. and I hear good things about ABUS locks

Classtime 

Get Dura Ace 7400 hubs and some Shiny TB-14 rims And have the shop build them. Fun stuff.

xiaoman1 

Here: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-original.html
Best, Ben
Opp's, I see you already bought a bike

dunkleosteus

Is this a tax discount or something? How do I get my 360$?

WGB 

Watch your local advertising. 700c wheels are a dime a dozen (ok often $60). 700c offers options like using a wider and softer tire or maybe a better tread choice than 27s.

Due you have a co-op near you? It'd be a great resource and often a great source of bikes and parts and wheels. Might have a nice tubular wheelset, then no more riding to work, you can float.

Are you sure about re-chroming? A quality job will be north of $300. A bad job can destroy a frame. See hydrogen embrittlement on previous threads. You need a company that has bike specific experience.

If a commuter, why not consider powder coating? You don't have to spend it all....

Try Pinheads for locking skewers. They won't stop pros but they should prevent casual thieves. Often on sale on the ''Bay. Just have to carry the key or you're SOL if you get a flat.

Panniers? Might beat a back pack.

​​​​​​No downside to using lights in daylight. Reminds those other commuters (in cars) that you are there.

xanthochrome

Thanks for the help so far! Any thoughts on this wheelset? I *think* my current bike is a freewheel and this looks like a casette - if so, would that be an issue? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mavic-Open-...sAAOSw1PZfUBoo

Sorry, I should have specified that this is through my graduate school.

Sorry, I should have specified that this is through my graduate school.

I'm looking for silver, but will keep an eye out! I saw the 27" tires reference thread so will try to find a LBS that is willing to let me try without buying...

Thanks for that lock suggestion! It certainly looks light and portable enough!

I looked at Craigslist for 700c wheels and didn't see a lot yet but will keep an eye out - I think used bikes and bike parts tend to be pretty pricey in the Boston area. I'll check out the co-op, though! Thanks for the hydrogen embrittlement rechroming advice. It looks like Franklin Frames says $175 for just the fork -- I was originally going off of this price list from Quality Chrome Plating. I really like the chrome and have been able to (mostly!) stay on top of any new rust forming so don't feel the need to powdercoat yet. Any suggestions for New England chromers? I'll start digging into the framebuilders forum too.

Here's a photo of the clearance issue where you can also see the current overall state of the chrome:

Narhay

Try rubbing wet aluminum foil on the chrome.

Your brake pads are high up in the brake calipers so this bike was likely intended to be 700c. To use the brakes on 700c wheels the pads will have to be lowered by 4mm. Looks like you can do this. The nice part is you can sell the old wheels to subsidize the new ones.

Cassette or freewheel doesnt matter but what matters is the rear spacing. You likely have 126mm spacing between the two rear dropouts. Some mid 80s cassette hubs had that spacing, otherwise everything new is going to be 130mm unless otherwise noted.

jdawginsc 

What is the O.L.D. of the rear hub? 130 or 126?

are the hubs Shimano 600 EX as well?

Is the drivetrain (rear and front derailleurs, crank and freewheel) 600 EX as well? 6 speed?

WGB 

+1 on Narhay's comment about foil. Most of us have or have had bikes with a lot worse chrome issues. If that's your idea of bad I see no worries.

Aluminum foil is softer than chrome but harder than rust. A little WD-40 on the chrome and then a light polish with foil. Alternatively, buy some Evaporust and strip bike down, if you don't have tools that's where the Co-op come in. Soak the brakes and any other rusted components in a container of Evaporust overnight. Soak the forks the same way. If there is chrome on the rear, say the chain stays soak a rag in Evaporust and wrap tightly around the rusted area and then re-wrap with plastic wrap and leave over night. You may still have a bit of rust in a few places but the polish method should then get it fine. The good thing about this method is that you will know when the grease and bearings were last replaced. After you are done, use a good car wax and wax the frame and forks. Just like with a car, it'll protect your bike.

WGB 

duplicate

wheelgofar

--

nlerner

I don’t know of New England chromers, but the motorcycle folks might. You could ask at Pike’s Powder Coating in Alston as they do a variety of objects that might require chrome. On local co-ops that sell wheels, Broadway Bikes in Somerville or Bikes Not Bombs in JP are two excellent resources.

nlerner

Also, that $360/year bicycle benefit is a federal program: https://bikeleague.org/content/bicycle-commuter-benefit

My former employer participated, but my current one does not, unfortunately.

xanthochrome

The hubs say "Shimano Via", so I think they're something lower-quality than Shimano 600. They look exactly like these: https://www.ebay.com/p/1824009425 The derailleurs, brakes, crank, and headset (?) are Shimano 600, the shifters are Suntours, no clue what the bottom bracket is. The derailleurs had been Altus, but I switched them out after finding a good deal on eBay several years ago. I can't read any branding on the freewheel, but it is a 6-speed. Other than derailleurs, cable housing, bar tape, brake hoods, tires, pedals, and saddle, everything is how my mom had it set up in the 80's. She would not have known enough about components to have asked for anything in particular, so she probably gave them a budget and had the shop decide. She had the bike made with one of her first "adult" paychecks and it was her commuter/weekend rider for about 10 years. It then sat unused for around 15-20 years in the garage until I took it.

When I took the wheel off and measured the frame, the inside dimension in the rear triangle is 125mm.

Yup, I measured that space at 125mm! It seems like those Harris Cyclery wheels will fit off-the-rack, but otherwise I would be looking at vintage wheels, having wheels made with a vintage hub, or spreading the frame? I messaged the eBay seller to ask about the spacing of those Dura Ace wheels.

There is rust damage to the chrome in the seat cluster and the bottom bracket area especially. On the tubing and fork the chrome still looks pretty perfect. I had used foil on my first cleanup years ago and just went over everything again this morning to the best of my ability. Here's a picture of the post-foil seat cluster, which is similar to the back of the bottom bracket shell. I know that the bearings have not been replaced since the early or mid 90's. I'll get some Evaporust and try to get into the trickier areas and then wax (somehow waxing it had never crossed my mind....) and read more about what to do with bearings. The rechroming idea is mostly because I have all of this money that magically appeared and I didn't quite know what to do with it! Since I didn't know that it could jeopardize the frame, it seemed like a reasonable idea to make it look perfect. I'll just derust and wax for now.

jdawginsc 

Wheels would be a good upgrade then. As other have stated, looking on FB Marketplace or CL might net a solid pair.

...if the clearance allows, maybe some fenders?

...definitely lights are always a good investment for dusk rides...

...and a decent lock and you’re set!

For reference, I picked up a pair of 700c MA 40 laced to Dura Ace hubs for $75 last year.

thook

that's interesting. what does the clearance look like for the tire in the rear? i had an early/mid 80's lotus elite that had short reach clearance in the fork, but standard clearance in the rear. however, it was definitely designed for 27" wheels. atleast, that's what it equipped with in the catalogue spec. but, i could not fit more than a 1" tire in the fork and still clear the brake. perhaps your frame is the same in that regard?

rhm

If new wheels are more or less a given , you might also consider 650b wheels. You'll need brakes...

due ruote 

You could buy something like this Rockhopper, put street tires and fenders on it, maybe upright bars and a basket. Arguably a better commuter platform than what you have, depending on your circumstances and needs.