Colnago Repair
#1
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Thread Starter
Colnago Repair
Hi all- I have just purchased a slightly beat up Mexico frame ( the blue one- I don't have it yet- it's still on it's way).
I intend to restore it although I haven't quite decided on the level. Most likely I will repaint it in the original color scheme.
However, the non-drive side cable guide is broken as in the picture. I have some reasonable TIG skills so was going to repair this but I wondered if anyone had any ideas about where to get a replacement part to weld on, or where to scavange something similar to weld onto the front (options; replace the whole thing or replace just the front bit which is missing).
Any thoughts on the frame or project appreciated.
poggor
I intend to restore it although I haven't quite decided on the level. Most likely I will repaint it in the original color scheme.
However, the non-drive side cable guide is broken as in the picture. I have some reasonable TIG skills so was going to repair this but I wondered if anyone had any ideas about where to get a replacement part to weld on, or where to scavange something similar to weld onto the front (options; replace the whole thing or replace just the front bit which is missing).
Any thoughts on the frame or project appreciated.
poggor
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poggor
This is not a tig job, brazing is what needs to be done.
If you talk to a frame builder he may be able to counsel you on how to proceed by your self.
Please take care whatever you do, it is after all a Colnago, albeit a sad one, it deserves a proper repair and refinish.
They or a framebuilder supply will have the bits you need.
This is not a tig job, brazing is what needs to be done.
If you talk to a frame builder he may be able to counsel you on how to proceed by your self.
Please take care whatever you do, it is after all a Colnago, albeit a sad one, it deserves a proper repair and refinish.
They or a framebuilder supply will have the bits you need.
Last edited by merziac; 09-30-20 at 09:08 PM.
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#3
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I would "finish the job" and remove it.
I would use the bolt-on Campy thing or go with a guide under the BB.
I would use the bolt-on Campy thing or go with a guide under the BB.
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Given that paint, it looks like someone has been down there before. Have a competent framebuilder look over the entire BB shell (stripped of paint, if necessary) to make sure nobody did any additional homespun fixes that might compromise the area.
Someone should still have some of those over-the-BB Campagnolo braze-on cable guide fittings still kicking about to repair it with. Mind, this is provided they're original in the first place. I'd assume they are, but given the BB paint and the fact that I'm not that well up on Colnagos, I wouldn't commit to saying so definitively.
-Kurt
Someone should still have some of those over-the-BB Campagnolo braze-on cable guide fittings still kicking about to repair it with. Mind, this is provided they're original in the first place. I'd assume they are, but given the BB paint and the fact that I'm not that well up on Colnagos, I wouldn't commit to saying so definitively.
-Kurt
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I wouldn't. It would need a cable guide and with the drain hole there you've got nothing to screw it in to. The RD cable has to remain over BB as the chain stay guide (diver's helmet) is on top, so you'll have one on top and one under - that would bug me, but I guess that's up to the owner.
For me your two options are a clamp on over BB cable guide like this*, or get the missing section brazed on.
* Not sure if you would have to remove the existing cable guides in order to use this, which may add weight to the brazed option.
For me your two options are a clamp on over BB cable guide like this*, or get the missing section brazed on.
* Not sure if you would have to remove the existing cable guides in order to use this, which may add weight to the brazed option.
#7
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Thanks for advice everyone- I will try to get it fixed.
I agree with P!N20 - prefer to remain over the BB as original (I want the bike to be period correct but also, there's a big Ace of Clubs under the BB!)
I think i will explore repair and failing that go to a clamp on guide.
much appreciated.
pogggggor
I agree with P!N20 - prefer to remain over the BB as original (I want the bike to be period correct but also, there's a big Ace of Clubs under the BB!)
I think i will explore repair and failing that go to a clamp on guide.
much appreciated.
pogggggor
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FYI, to everyone who's so quick to suggest under-the-BB cable routing, may I point out that the derailer cable stop is positioned for above-the-BB routing on a chromed chainstay?
Let that be a lesson never to recommend overcomplicated (and expensive) solutions to simple repairs (especially to a relatively new C&V member) - unless you provide a clear explanation as to all the other things the owner will have to sort out as a result. In the case of converting to under-the-BB routing, that means chrome removal, repositioning the derailer cable stop, brazing guides to the bottom of the BB, rechroming (if desired) and the obligatory repaint.
In comparison to the laundry list of repairs listed above, retaining the over-the-BB routing is as simple as fluxing and removing the cable stop (or cutting it off and grinding the remains to avoid heating the BB more than necessary), silver soldering in a replacement, and repainting. Might even be able to get away with a partial repaint and paint match on the BB and downtube if the OP is an originality buff. That's it. Simple, comparatively affordable, and faithful to originality.
I'm baffled at the apparent fetish in this thread to whack the - presumably - original bits off this frame and go through ridiculous hoops and hurdles to make a non-original repair.
Looks like the OP won't have any problems then. So utterly simple.
-Kurt
Let that be a lesson never to recommend overcomplicated (and expensive) solutions to simple repairs (especially to a relatively new C&V member) - unless you provide a clear explanation as to all the other things the owner will have to sort out as a result. In the case of converting to under-the-BB routing, that means chrome removal, repositioning the derailer cable stop, brazing guides to the bottom of the BB, rechroming (if desired) and the obligatory repaint.
In comparison to the laundry list of repairs listed above, retaining the over-the-BB routing is as simple as fluxing and removing the cable stop (or cutting it off and grinding the remains to avoid heating the BB more than necessary), silver soldering in a replacement, and repainting. Might even be able to get away with a partial repaint and paint match on the BB and downtube if the OP is an originality buff. That's it. Simple, comparatively affordable, and faithful to originality.
I'm baffled at the apparent fetish in this thread to whack the - presumably - original bits off this frame and go through ridiculous hoops and hurdles to make a non-original repair.
Looks like the OP won't have any problems then. So utterly simple.
-Kurt
Last edited by cudak888; 10-02-20 at 12:57 PM.
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FYI, to everyone who's so quick to suggest under-the-BB cable routing, may I point out that the derailer cable stop is positioned for above-the-BB routing on a chromed chainstay?
Let that be a lesson never to recommend overcomplicated (and expensive) solutions to simple repairs (especially to a relatively new C&V member) - unless you provide a clear explanation as to all the other things the owner will have to sort out as a result. In the case of converting to under-the-BB routing, that means chrome removal, repositioning the derailer cable stop, brazing guides to the bottom of the BB, rechroming (if desired) and the obligatory repaint.
In comparison to the laundry list of repairs listed above, retaining the over-the-BB routing is as simple as fluxing and removing the cable stop (or cutting it off and grinding the remains to avoid heating the BB more than necessary), silver soldering in a replacement, and repainting. Might even be able to get away with a partial repaint and paint match on the BB and downtube if the OP is an originality buff. That's it. Simple, comparatively affordable, and faithful to originality.
I'm baffled at the apparent fetish in this thread to whack the - presumably - original bits off this frame and go through ridiculous hoops and hurdles to make a non-original repair.
Looks like the OP won't have any problems then. So utterly simple.
-Kurt
Let that be a lesson never to recommend overcomplicated (and expensive) solutions to simple repairs (especially to a relatively new C&V member) - unless you provide a clear explanation as to all the other things the owner will have to sort out as a result. In the case of converting to under-the-BB routing, that means chrome removal, repositioning the derailer cable stop, brazing guides to the bottom of the BB, rechroming (if desired) and the obligatory repaint.
In comparison to the laundry list of repairs listed above, retaining the over-the-BB routing is as simple as fluxing and removing the cable stop (or cutting it off and grinding the remains to avoid heating the BB more than necessary), silver soldering in a replacement, and repainting. Might even be able to get away with a partial repaint and paint match on the BB and downtube if the OP is an originality buff. That's it. Simple, comparatively affordable, and faithful to originality.
I'm baffled at the apparent fetish in this thread to whack the - presumably - original bits off this frame and go through ridiculous hoops and hurdles to make a non-original repair.
Looks like the OP won't have any problems then. So utterly simple.
-Kurt
I Agree 100% . Its a very simple repair to ReAttach the cable guide. Any decent framebuilder or competent welder can braze that back on in a few minutes.
BTW, I apologize to Kurt for any previous disagreement we had.
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ALWAYS keep as close to original as possible.
And like cudak888 , and Manny said......simple fix for someone who knows what they are doing.
Good luck and congrats on the Colnago !!!!
They are GREAT bikes !!!!!
And like cudak888 , and Manny said......simple fix for someone who knows what they are doing.
Good luck and congrats on the Colnago !!!!
They are GREAT bikes !!!!!
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But indeed, as "go to the framebuilder" fixes go, this one is as simple as they get.
-Kurt
#13
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Thread Starter
Thanks everyone-
as cudak said- swapping the cable stop to the underside of the chromed chainstay would be a lot of trouble. and anyway I want to restore this bike to period. and putting a plastic cable guide over the asso di fiori cutout on the bb would be sacrilege!
I have sourced one of the cable guides in John thompsons picture.
to merziac- when i said tig- I will be tig brazing with silicone bronze filler. I know this technique is not traditional but it works really well and I'm comfortable with it. result is essentially the same.
I'll keep you all posted!
And THANKS! so much for all your great advice- nice community.
poggor
as cudak said- swapping the cable stop to the underside of the chromed chainstay would be a lot of trouble. and anyway I want to restore this bike to period. and putting a plastic cable guide over the asso di fiori cutout on the bb would be sacrilege!
I have sourced one of the cable guides in John thompsons picture.
to merziac- when i said tig- I will be tig brazing with silicone bronze filler. I know this technique is not traditional but it works really well and I'm comfortable with it. result is essentially the same.
I'll keep you all posted!
And THANKS! so much for all your great advice- nice community.
poggor
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no tig. It is easy enough to braze on a replacement part. If one searches a bit can even find one stamped Brev. CAMP
most any framebuilder should have the part at hand or be able to obtain a form equal.
strip all the paint first and evaluate the top tube cable guides - those were known to rust away.
check the main tubes accessible from the bottom bracket for rust too- test, don’t guess.
#15
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Thread Starter
I have a question for any Colnago experts - regarding the paint colour; does anyone know a match for this colour or a paint code? I have a paint guy who has matched paint colours on motorcycle restorations before and I'll ask him but wondered if any of the die hard fans had any insight?
thanks
poggor
thanks
poggor
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Thanks everyone-
as cudak said- swapping the cable stop to the underside of the chromed chainstay would be a lot of trouble. and anyway I want to restore this bike to period. and putting a plastic cable guide over the asso di fiori cutout on the bb would be sacrilege!
I have sourced one of the cable guides in John thompsons picture.
to merziac- when i said tig- I will be tig brazing with silicone bronze filler. I know this technique is not traditional but it works really well and I'm comfortable with it. result is essentially the same.
I'll keep you all posted!
And THANKS! so much for all your great advice- nice community.
poggor
as cudak said- swapping the cable stop to the underside of the chromed chainstay would be a lot of trouble. and anyway I want to restore this bike to period. and putting a plastic cable guide over the asso di fiori cutout on the bb would be sacrilege!
I have sourced one of the cable guides in John thompsons picture.
to merziac- when i said tig- I will be tig brazing with silicone bronze filler. I know this technique is not traditional but it works really well and I'm comfortable with it. result is essentially the same.
I'll keep you all posted!
And THANKS! so much for all your great advice- nice community.
poggor
Ok, I'll take your word for it, for now.
And I'm no expert, don't weld or braze, did learn long ago with poor results but have a good cursory understanding.
Never seen or heard of what you're proposing being used for this, maybe I haven't been paying attention.
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No,no,no! You do not need to fix that! If it is 60cm or larger , box it up and send it to me. I can have it fixed and ride it and the problems will all go away! I will take really good care of it.