Schwalbe Pro One tubeless
09-28-20, 04:41 PM
#52
faster downhill
shwalbes new pro ones come in tubeless and tubed , i have been running the tubed version and i they work great , there i no point to running pro ones tubeless outside of races or serious rides on your dedicated tubeless wheels , the tube version will be easier and more cost effective .
if you race on tubeless you will be running higher psi and nothing will seal properly over 80 psi .
sorry your simple mind cant comprehend basic words !
if you are set on running tubeless road , go for it , just giving you my POV , when i tried to run the original pro ones , as training tires , they failed me !
if you race on tubeless you will be running higher psi and nothing will seal properly over 80 psi .
sorry your simple mind cant comprehend basic words !
if you are set on running tubeless road , go for it , just giving you my POV , when i tried to run the original pro ones , as training tires , they failed me !
Last edited by StanSeven; 09-28-20 at 08:18 PM. Reason: Posts PM
10-01-20, 05:40 AM
#53
Senior Member
I have been running Pro Ones for over two years. I like them. set up is pretty easy and they roll nice. I recently wore out my rear tire, which was the original construction, so bought the newer addix TLE version. Now I have a newer addix version on the rear and the older version on the front. I have to say, after a few monthS on newer version, I think I like original better.
The newer version is great for set up. Inflates with just a pump, no compressor needed, while I need to use a compressor to get the older version to inflate. But the older version seals to the rim better.I seem to lose a bit more air between rides, which is not a big deal since loss is negligible — <10psi either way — but when I deflate to add sealant or whatever, the older version stays locked to the rim while the newer version does not, which is annoying.. Also, my sense is the newer version is wearing faster than the original, but its early yet to say for sure.
Ride quality is indistinguishable.
The newer version is great for set up. Inflates with just a pump, no compressor needed, while I need to use a compressor to get the older version to inflate. But the older version seals to the rim better.I seem to lose a bit more air between rides, which is not a big deal since loss is negligible — <10psi either way — but when I deflate to add sealant or whatever, the older version stays locked to the rim while the newer version does not, which is annoying.. Also, my sense is the newer version is wearing faster than the original, but its early yet to say for sure.
Ride quality is indistinguishable.
10-01-20, 10:27 AM
#54
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I put about 2600 miles on my rear 28mm Pro One Addix TLE before swapping it out. The front should last another 2500. Really like them.
I haven't used the older version, but I've experienced unseating when deflating the Addix on my Zipps, too (though they stayed locked on my Reynolds). I ended up getting some Milkit valve stems so that I can keep ~20psi in the tires, keeping them seated, while doing the sealant check/top-off.
I haven't used the older version, but I've experienced unseating when deflating the Addix on my Zipps, too (though they stayed locked on my Reynolds). I ended up getting some Milkit valve stems so that I can keep ~20psi in the tires, keeping them seated, while doing the sealant check/top-off.
10-01-20, 12:07 PM
#55
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I put about 2600 miles on my rear 28mm Pro One Addix TLE before swapping it out. The front should last another 2500. Really like them.
I haven't used the older version, but I've experienced unseating when deflating the Addix on my Zipps, too (though they stayed locked on my Reynolds). I ended up getting some Milkit valve stems so that I can keep ~20psi in the tires, keeping them seated, while doing the sealant check/top-off.
I haven't used the older version, but I've experienced unseating when deflating the Addix on my Zipps, too (though they stayed locked on my Reynolds). I ended up getting some Milkit valve stems so that I can keep ~20psi in the tires, keeping them seated, while doing the sealant check/top-off.
10-01-20, 12:45 PM
#56
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I did! One was no problem whatsoever, , the other was a bit of trouble.
When pumping up the tire, the valve wouldn't snap closed - I'd have to remove the pump head and try to quickly pull the little valve core nipple out with my fingers. That didn't work very well and it was losing 10+ psi in the process - frustrating. After mulling it over for a bit, I figured that the extension might be pushing in too far and that the flappy bits might be holding on to the extension, preventing it from closing. That proved to be right; I backed the valve core out about a quarter turn and it's been working as it should (although a pump/gauge with a bleed button would come in handy, so that I can reliably get the pressure down to a point where the tire won't unseat and the pressure won't turn the syringe in to a wresting match).
When pumping up the tire, the valve wouldn't snap closed - I'd have to remove the pump head and try to quickly pull the little valve core nipple out with my fingers. That didn't work very well and it was losing 10+ psi in the process - frustrating. After mulling it over for a bit, I figured that the extension might be pushing in too far and that the flappy bits might be holding on to the extension, preventing it from closing. That proved to be right; I backed the valve core out about a quarter turn and it's been working as it should (although a pump/gauge with a bleed button would come in handy, so that I can reliably get the pressure down to a point where the tire won't unseat and the pressure won't turn the syringe in to a wresting match).
10-01-20, 05:09 PM
#57
Senior Member
I put about 2600 miles on my rear 28mm Pro One Addix TLE before swapping it out. The front should last another 2500. Really like them.
I haven't used the older version, but I've experienced unseating when deflating the Addix on my Zipps, too (though they stayed locked on my Reynolds). I ended up getting some Milkit valve stems so that I can keep ~20psi in the tires, keeping them seated, while doing the sealant check/top-off.
I haven't used the older version, but I've experienced unseating when deflating the Addix on my Zipps, too (though they stayed locked on my Reynolds). I ended up getting some Milkit valve stems so that I can keep ~20psi in the tires, keeping them seated, while doing the sealant check/top-off.
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10-02-20, 11:38 AM
#58
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I did! One was no problem whatsoever, , the other was a bit of trouble.
When pumping up the tire, the valve wouldn't snap closed - I'd have to remove the pump head and try to quickly pull the little valve core nipple out with my fingers. That didn't work very well and it was losing 10+ psi in the process - frustrating. After mulling it over for a bit, I figured that the extension might be pushing in too far and that the flappy bits might be holding on to the extension, preventing it from closing. That proved to be right; I backed the valve core out about a quarter turn and it's been working as it should (although a pump/gauge with a bleed button would come in handy, so that I can reliably get the pressure down to a point where the tire won't unseat and the pressure won't turn the syringe in to a wresting match).
When pumping up the tire, the valve wouldn't snap closed - I'd have to remove the pump head and try to quickly pull the little valve core nipple out with my fingers. That didn't work very well and it was losing 10+ psi in the process - frustrating. After mulling it over for a bit, I figured that the extension might be pushing in too far and that the flappy bits might be holding on to the extension, preventing it from closing. That proved to be right; I backed the valve core out about a quarter turn and it's been working as it should (although a pump/gauge with a bleed button would come in handy, so that I can reliably get the pressure down to a point where the tire won't unseat and the pressure won't turn the syringe in to a wresting match).
10-02-20, 12:00 PM
#59
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10-02-20, 01:35 PM
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Oh, that's right - you were having the opposite problem where you couldn't get air through the core, right? Yeah, I'd see if you can tighten the core down just a hair more, to make it push in to the flappy bits a little further. It really does seem like a fine line not enough and too much.
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