Rocky Mushman

I am wondering what bikes have a long steerer tube like the surly lht , preferably one with a top tube that slopes down a bit like the troll ? The new disk trucker sounds like it might be in my domain but I want a 26 inch wheel (the 26 inch version doesn't have the new slope) and rim brakes.

Also what about a layback seat post, velo orange do one that claims 31 mm but I have that and to get that layback the seat needs to be at an odd angle, is there anything else that gives around the 30 mm ?

ClydeClydeson

You seem to be a bit confused.

First, I believe you are talking about the head tube, which is the front part of the frame through which the fork goes. The part of the fork inside the head tube is called the steerer tube. You are looking for a frame with an extrended head tube.

Second, the 31mm of offset is more likely how far the middle of the clamp is from the centre axis of the post. Any standard saddle will be able to be mounted to approximately level with that seatpost if you are clamping on the correct part of the saddle rails. If you are clamping on the angled part of the saddle rails near the front of the saddle, you are doing it wrong. The two long flat sections (often with a scale printed on them to make fore-aft adjustments easier and more consistent) are where you need to be clamping the seatpost. Hold a ruler up to the side of the post (the lower section before the bend near the top) and you will see the clamp is more than an inch (likely 31mm) behind the ruler.

If you are clamping the saddle on the parts of the rails designed to be clamped and the saddle still can't be adjusted to be close to level, you may have the clamp assembled wrong. My bet, though, is that you are trying to clamp on the saddle on parts of the rails that weren't designed for clamping.

edit: I just looked at the VO 30mm setback seatpost and I think you are trying to use the very back part of the clamp. THe length of the clamp is not to adjust for-aft, but to adust angle. If you put the saddle at the back end of the seatpost's adjustment, the saddle will have its nose pointing to the heavens. THe 31mm is the approximate setback around the middle of the post's adjustment. Then the rails of the saddle are long enough to allow some fore-aft movement for any given position of the clamp.

hermanchauw

Long steerer tube not necessary. Just use a taller stem. There are stem extenders also for threadless.


You could use bmx setback seat post and a shim.

Doug64

I have a VO 30 mm setback seatpost. I don't have it on a bike right now, but the only way I can see to get the nose of the saddle pointing at the sky is to mount it backwards

TiHabanero

I, too, have the VO post mounted to a seat tube that is 71 degrees and the saddle sits flat. Position is in middle of the rails, but if I move it to the most forward part of the rails it does point up slightly, but most certainly not to the sky. The rails at that point are slightly curved so I can see how this happened.

Rocky Mushman

>You seem to be a bit confused.

Lets open our hearts and minds in the hope that we all learn something.

I want a longer steerer tube so I don't have to use an extender or threaded stem on a threadless headset for strength. Currently a solution might be to use a bmx style riser bar with appropriate stem which isn't a bad option.

Without getting bogged down in how long 31 mm is or what angle you can get out of it , let me rephrase. A few years back it seemed the VO seat post would give me the the greatest layback and I am looking for something that goes back more, are there any positive suggestions ?

Doug64

Why do you need more setback? Are you trying to raise your bars? What frame are working with?

If you are trying to adjust your reach using a setback seatpost, it is not a good idea. Seat fore and aft positioning is used to adjust the position of your knees to pedals. Some leather saddles have short rails, and setback allows dialing in the knee/ pedal position. Is that the problem you are trying to fix?

Rocky Mushman

I am trying to optimize the bike geometry which is a continual process., so for someone like myself that averages say 30 miles a day for the past 30 years a mm here or there really makes a difference over time.

There isn't one particular problem or issue to fix and my setup is good, I have maybe made 200 adjustments on this bike with a few weeks between each to get it correct for me. However as I age with my current setup I have to deal with an inseam change and of course a back shortening. Changes around the neck are also something I have and will deal with. Of course changing one thing changes others and a greater seat setback would be a useful point of experimentation.

Currently I am using a LHT frame. The top tube length seems good, If I could I would reduce the standover height though. While not being confused I find the steering tube length a fantastic point of adjustment and it is unfortunate that so many bikes cater to an aggressive riding position or at least don't give you the option of cutting the fork. I guess the seat position I am experimenting with has to do with the knee angle, and I in a while I may get a different crank length as I want to go to a square taper anyway. The fork on my lht was cut so I might by a new uncut fork to raise the handlebars, and seat and therefore get around my layback issue.

Steering tube extenders are out for me as I had a bike thrown off the roof of a bus in Kyrgyzstan and the one I had on was the only point of failure.

djb

From what you describe about thinking of getting a new uncut fork, this might be your best bet. I bought my troll used but luckily the steerer hadn't been cut, and it's nice to have my stem up at the top of the steerer, and it doesn't bother me in the least with all the spacers.

the new trolls have a higher headset,as does the bridge club model. I think the new lht does too, plus they use those "riser style" drops too.

I've never used an extender, but I'm not keen on the idea of them either.

Rocky Mushman

I am thinking this is best also, for me it is hard to justify getting a new fork if the old one is fine (except from being cut). I am tempted just to get a new complete frame. I also have a troll and the lht steerer tube uncut is about 2-3 ins longer than the troll's. Regarding the steerer tube I would love other frames to choose from other than surly's but I cannot see anything close to that LHT steering tube size. I have thought of a Thorn or other European frames but would really like to try the bike before purchasing.

djb

It does sound like you are ultra sensitive to small changes, I get it, although I may not be as finicky as you, but it doesn't matter, you rightfully want a frame that fits you really really well, and to look too the future also.
My troll setup with drops fits me really really well, I just had to use a rather sort stem, but it's not an issue and I love how the bike handles, even loaded.

ps, I bought my troll never having ridden one. Thorns have such a good reputation but I also get not wanting to buy a bike never ridden

Trevtassie

I'm a big fan of 26", but there are a lot of nice new tires coming out that aren't made in 26" especially in wider touring tires which would suit the Troll and that sucks.

Doug64

I also have a LHT, and still have not cut the steerer tube. I agree that buying a new fork is the cleanest way to raise the bars.

This is my touring bike that I built up 10 years ago using a LHT frame. I planned on cutting the steerer tube once I got everything dialed in, but it is still that way. It actually came in handy earlier this year when I dumped my bike on the ice and tore 3 major shoulder tendons. I raised the the bars to the full height of the steerer tube to give me a more upright riding position, taking some of the pressure off my shoulder. I see the surgeon early next month.
Correction: I did cut the steerer tube last year when I was cutting one for my daughter's LHT. I left 1 cm. above the stem.

What saddle are you using? I used a VO 30 mm setback seatpost with a Brooks B17 saddle, and it worked OK. There was not much adjustment due to the short rails of the B17. I'm getting ready to put a Sella Anatomica on a different bike, and may need the VO's setback.



My daughter rode her LHT until she had it dialed in. It took her 3 years, but we still left a little above the stem, just in case. The blue one is our other daughter's LHT. They are hitched to secure spot on a ferry with their "ferry straps", and have their "parking brakes" on.


After cutting, the black spacer is supposed to be above the stem, but she assembled her own bike at the airport

djb

another bike with a bunch of spacers, 4 I think.
I presumed that my steerer hadnt been cut, but maybe it was, who knows.
All I know is that having the bars at this height works great for me.

( "Location" in French is "Rentals" )

tyrion

Nitto S84. 37mm setback, expensive:

https://www.benscycle.com/nitto-s84-...84_870/product

https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/pro...1?category=987

Rocky Mushman

Nice trip, is that the ferry to Vancouver Island ? My saddle is a TRK Selle SMP and the rails are long on it , for me it is a great saddle but I only get about 2 years out of them and the bike is never left outside much , I tried a Brooks and found it uncomfortable so stuck with the Selle as it works well for me. I am on a 56 cm LHT and am about 5-11 , I am in between going to a 54 cm (or sticking with a 56 and getting 26 inch wheels) and then get to raise the seat up and the bars with the new fork. Also this will lower my seat height a bit if I use the 54 but it does feel small. I am in Portland, OR and most places that have a LHT to test ride have cut the steering tube.

djb nice drops on the troll, I am thinking of doing that to get my hands closer to the stem when riding. My setup is so sensitive that the added distance or angle to regular flat bars makes a big difference in posture for me. I am almost thinking of a double handlebar setup.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/org/thorn-index.html

Rocky Mushman

Thanks for those links, at those prices I wonder if I could get a frame builder to make me a seat post for a similar amount.

fietsbob

in most seat posts its set back not lay back...

But there have been curved steel tubing 7/8" diameter seat posts that have been called lay back

they use 7/8" tube because that is what saddle clips are made to grip..

djb

they are salsa cowbells, slight flare out, 12 degrees I t hink, but are both short in reach and shallow in drop. I also like how the drops natural hand position is towards me a bit, so along with bar height at about saddle height, I can ride in the drops comfortably, very handy the times I ve been in very very windy areas all day.
Very short stem, about 55mm I think, 50 or 60 cant recall. But handles great, no issues with a short stem, not twitchy. But it does have 2in tires and a front rack and all that. Is a med troll frame, Im about 5'10-5'11