Dura Ace AX Dyna Drive pedal dust covers
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Dura Ace AX Dyna Drive pedal dust covers
I have a set of Dura Ace Dyna Drive pedals. The dust covers are impossible to find.
Do you think a piece of duct tape over the opening would work or would there be
another available option?
Do you think a piece of duct tape over the opening would work or would there be
another available option?
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C'mon man, you know we have to have pics, especially when you ask about a wacky thing like these.
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If it interests you, I know adapters exist to allow using normal pedals in a Dyna Drive crank, but I have no idea how rare, sought after, or expensive they are. I'd look at ebay.
Last edited by noobinsf; 09-30-20 at 06:16 PM.
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“Last one” for a pair of adapters from this seller in Poland, $30.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-cranks-...YAAOSwWeZfchWt
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-cranks-...YAAOSwWeZfchWt
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Vintage, yes, these wacky, obscure, short lived things, not so much.
Are you talking about the originally blue plastic caps that are never seen for having been lost long ago?
Is the allen hole open on the inside?
Are you talking about the originally blue plastic caps that are never seen for having been lost long ago?
Is the allen hole open on the inside?
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BTW, I've never heard a rave review of these groups from the forum. Anyone? Before I sell the whole group?
Last edited by clubman; 09-30-20 at 06:42 PM.
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I have a set of Dura-Ace DynaDrive pedals... I have no idea when one is referring to dust covers. Nothing in back, and nothing in the pedal body hole that I have ever seen.
There were curious light blue plastic covers for the headset. They add something to the pedal?
We never saw the headset aero caps in real life either way back.
Maybe on the Adamus? lower tier model? Don't recall the exact spelling.
There were curious light blue plastic covers for the headset. They add something to the pedal?
We never saw the headset aero caps in real life either way back.
Maybe on the Adamus? lower tier model? Don't recall the exact spelling.
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Merz was fond of the cranks I think because they were very nice finish wise, cheap and available when that stuff fell on its face.
He made triples out of them, also made his own adapters, I have two bikes with cranks and one with his adapters, huge plus for me.
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the Dura-Ace AX cranks did have a narrow "Q" factor at the BB spindle. interestingly, kind of abandoned for the 7400 group that followed on.
The W cut teeth, designed to enhance shifting.
The freehub... kind of ahead of its time.
Problem was the units in operation of Campagnolo race wheels... with the Uniglide chain that stretched fast (I tested one for them, I cut the test short, three weeks instead of a month as it had stretched in about 1,000 miles)
If they had gone with a narrow chain, which did not really exist yet, they could have squeezed in 7 cogs... Now that would have gotten attention.
The W cut teeth, designed to enhance shifting.
The freehub... kind of ahead of its time.
Problem was the units in operation of Campagnolo race wheels... with the Uniglide chain that stretched fast (I tested one for them, I cut the test short, three weeks instead of a month as it had stretched in about 1,000 miles)
If they had gone with a narrow chain, which did not really exist yet, they could have squeezed in 7 cogs... Now that would have gotten attention.
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I have a set of Dura-Ace DynaDrive pedals... I have no idea when one is referring to dust covers. Nothing in back, and nothing in the pedal body hole that I have ever seen.
There were curious light blue plastic covers for the headset. They add something to the pedal?
We never saw the headset aero caps in real life either way back.
Maybe on the Adamus? lower tier model? Don't recall the exact spelling.
There were curious light blue plastic covers for the headset. They add something to the pedal?
We never saw the headset aero caps in real life either way back.
Maybe on the Adamus? lower tier model? Don't recall the exact spelling.
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I'll look tomorrow.
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Try rubber O-rings. Go to a plumbing supply place and see what sizes are available. You might find something very close to the right size that will work and will likely be very cheap.
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you are by now the de facto expert on AX
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Which piece are you missing?
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Dyna Drive pedals have two dust seals (see attached parts diagram).
Dyna Drive are my favourite toe clip and strap pedals. They were actually introduced for the 1980 model year on Dura-Ace EX and later incorporated into AX. The purpose was to put the shoe/pedal interface on the axle axis. This created a much more stable pedal platform. Shimano claimed that this stability allowed extra force be applied to the pedal that would otherwise be used to stabilize the foot. The 'extra power' claim always seemed a bit tenuous but the increased stability was readily noticeable. The concept actually goes back to the 1890s, having been resurrected periodically over the years.
On top that they had tons of cornering clearance compared to a traditional quill pedals of the era. Another big advantage is their ease of overhaul. Disassembly, assembly and adjustment requires only two 6mm Allen wrenches. Bearing adjustment is a breeze, as there's no fumbling with a cone buried under a locknut in tight confines. Personally, I also feel that they have the best aesthetics of all toe clip and strap pedals.
As noted the crankset had a relatively low Q-factor. It was also one of the stiffest cranks available during the early 1980s. Campagnolo took the the offset spider design one step further on C-Record by utilizing the crankarm itself a a chainring mounting point, though it made chainring removal more difficult.
I realize that a lot of people didn't like the non-standard 1" threads, but it was necessary to increase the number of bearings, in order to carry all of the load on the medial side of the pedal without excess wear rates.
Dyna Drive are my favourite toe clip and strap pedals. They were actually introduced for the 1980 model year on Dura-Ace EX and later incorporated into AX. The purpose was to put the shoe/pedal interface on the axle axis. This created a much more stable pedal platform. Shimano claimed that this stability allowed extra force be applied to the pedal that would otherwise be used to stabilize the foot. The 'extra power' claim always seemed a bit tenuous but the increased stability was readily noticeable. The concept actually goes back to the 1890s, having been resurrected periodically over the years.
On top that they had tons of cornering clearance compared to a traditional quill pedals of the era. Another big advantage is their ease of overhaul. Disassembly, assembly and adjustment requires only two 6mm Allen wrenches. Bearing adjustment is a breeze, as there's no fumbling with a cone buried under a locknut in tight confines. Personally, I also feel that they have the best aesthetics of all toe clip and strap pedals.
As noted the crankset had a relatively low Q-factor. It was also one of the stiffest cranks available during the early 1980s. Campagnolo took the the offset spider design one step further on C-Record by utilizing the crankarm itself a a chainring mounting point, though it made chainring removal more difficult.
I realize that a lot of people didn't like the non-standard 1" threads, but it was necessary to increase the number of bearings, in order to carry all of the load on the medial side of the pedal without excess wear rates.
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