Razorrock

I've got a DI2 set up with the junction box under the stem right now. I've purchased the EW-RS910 bar end junction and EW-WU111 wireless unit. I plan on placing the wireless unit in the bars. I have standard alloy bars and have watched the videos about drilling a hole a couple of inches from the bar ends to run wires semi-internal.

Looking around for pre drilled bars for internal wiring mostly comes up with aero bars. I'm fine with that, but the prices are pretty ridiculous. I would like to keep it around $100 I don't race and don't care if the bars are alloy.

Amazon has $50 Chinese carbon fiber aero bars that are pre drilled, but should I trust them?

blakcloud

One area I would never buy unbranded carbon is a handlebar. There are alloy bars that are in your price range. Shimano Pro Vibe Alloy bars are less than $100 and for slightly more the Bontrager Elite IsoZone VR-SF bar. Both compatible with your bar end junction box and Di2 wiring.

surak

Zipp and Pro (Shimano) make alloy bars predrilled for the RS910 junction box. I use Zipp Service Course 80 Ergo. $55 new.

eflayer

why not drill one hole?

Koyote

Shimano PRO line of handlebars. The allow models come in various widths, shapes, flares, and they are inexpensive. And they are all Di2 ready.

Razorrock

Di2 ready and internal wiring are 2 different things. All the bars listed above only have a hole in the last couple of inches by the bar ends. the wire runs on top of the bar, from the hole and to the shifters. I could drill that into my bars. What I want is a hole at the shifter and usually at bottom of bars by the stem. That way the wires are all inside the bars until they exit by the stem.

All I see like that are $300+ and carbon except the cheap Chinese ones. Any other options? Any one used cheap Chinese carbon bars?

eflayer

I was all excited about running wire and hydro hoses through the bars and even spent the $300 on FSA K-Wing AGX gravel bars in order to make this happen. And I did the install without any big problems. The problem that happened afterward came from realizing that if you ever want to remove the bars or adjust things very much you end up having to cut the ends off the hoses to remove the bars and that means a whole brake bleeding hassle.

I now prefer running wires and hoses outside the bars and making it easier to make adjustments when necessary.

Koyote

I'm interested in why this matters to you...? The wires are very thin, and I have never seen nor felt them under my bar tape.

Not trying to argue -- just wondering if I am missing out on something.

surak

While it's probably ok because the DFly will still be close to the head unit, putting it inside an alloy bar could potentially cause connection issues.

Chi_Z

just drill a few holes next to where the DFly sits

TiHabanero

"I was all excited about running wire and hydro hoses through the bars and even spent the $300 on FSA K-Wing AGX gravel bars in order to make this happen. And I did the install without any big problems. The problem that happened afterward came from realizing that if you ever want to remove the bars or adjust things very much you end up having to cut the ends off the hoses to remove the bars and that means a whole brake bleeding hassle."

This happened yesterday at the shop. The customer could not believe the cost to raise his bars was so high. I told him that replacing brake hose and bleeding the brakes was the big cost. Had the brake lines run outside the bars there would have been enough slack to accomplish what he was looking to do. Like performance, looking sweet with hidden lines comes at a price.

RobbieTunes

I buy the Chinese ones. So far, so good.

I'd love to find Di2 capable bars in 36cm for my girl.