Papa Tom

They seemed MUCH too cheap from the start, but I put a set on a bike that I gave away and I haven't heard any reports of a catastrophe so far. Last week, however, I decided to finally replace the original calipers on my 1996 GT Outpost, which I still ride everywhere, all the time, and I had a set of these laying around from my last purchase. I put them on, adjusted them as well as I know how, and now my brakes are like mush.

It's been just a little too chilly out to hang out in the garage tweaking them, but I plan to get back to them soon. Am I wasting my time? They seem to be of the same quality as the crap that was on there to begin with - and THOSE brakes were phenomenal. Have they just gotten that much worse in 24 years????

Bill Kapaun

Did you install a Canti brake with a Linear Pull lever?

Papa Tom

They are center-pull canti brakes, exactly like the ones I replaced, and the lever is the same one that has been on there since 1996, give or take a few components. Even the straddle cable is exactly the same size as the original.

Andrew R Stewart 

Are the pads set to the same position on their smooth shafts? Andy

Papa Tom

I have tried the pads in several positions with the same results. These are the same KoolStop (black) pads that were on before and they are almost brand new.

Unlike my lack of prowess with some other bicycle repairs and procedures, I have always been instinctively good with brakes. I say "instinctively" because, while I may not know the theory behind what I do, I have always achieved excellent results by "feel."

Andrew R Stewart 

Tom- Well then you have a project ahead of discovery Try going back to the old canits to resstablish your base line. Try the new pads on the old cantis. Try the old pads on the new cantis. I do like a solid feel to the pad contact myself and I know this generally means less leverage. But my hands are strong so that's not much of an issue.

Last couple of tidbits I think of this morning (before I drive 4 hours to pick up a freshly painted frame) is to make sure the cable routing and such is without any points of movement. A common error is at the link wire's top "button" where the primary cable goes through it and turns the corner to one canti arm top. I've seen many that have the primary cable still running through the button's insert tunnel and not yet pulled over the tab to align vertically. This doesn't effect leverage but does induce some flex in the cable as it gets pulled tight. I also run my pads as flat to the rim as I can. If there's squeal I'll dirty up the pad's faces with garden dirt to shut them up. Andy

Papa Tom

Andrew: Are you the one who was explaining to me, in another thread, the concept of setting the straddle cable higher or lower?

I am also trying to grasp what you are saying about the "top button." I think you are suggesting that I check the routing of the cable through the straddle? That should be correct, as it's the way I have always routed it and it has always worked fine.

One thing I am looking at (and this might even be the key) is that I've replaced a small, soft, hollow piece of tubing that protects the cable from the very last insert on the frame before it reaches the straddle. It fell apart and, in the middle of a pandemic, I was unable to get (or make) a new one, so I used a short segment of cable housing. This may be adding extra friction and keeping the cable from pulling as forcefully as it should. Perhaps I will remove it for now and see if things improve.

I only wish the weather wasn't falling just-short of comfortable to get out and work on the bike.