So how heavy is the Surly Cross-Check? (back & other issues)
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Hi all,
I'm probably buying a Crosscheck in the next few weeks. I've done what internet research I can. Almost everyone loves the bike, but almost everyone complains about the weight. I am only concerned about the weight issue because of some serious back problems (not supposed to lift more than 35lbs ever again and even that much not too often ). I'm getting rid of my current hybrid (Specialized Crossroads Comp) because of how heavy it is--I want to be able to put the thing on the car rack by myself easily. The back problems also mean I need to be pretty upright--more like a hybrid than a road bike--bars a couple of inches above the seat. (Pretty sure I'm going with the Jones h-bar, several positions and pretty lightweight)
The other bikes in contention are the Soma Doublecross, the Specialized Tricross, and maybe, just maybe, a Gunnar Crosshairs, but the Gunnar would be a huge stretch for the budget--the Soma is the real competition. I'm worried that with the pre-built bikes, the fork is already cut down which I think would make getting the bars up high harder. Also the Specialized and similar bikes almost always come with doubles and we have some pretty good hills here in Colorado (read "I'm not in phenomenal shape") and I want the bike to at least be able to take a triple.. Other suggestions are welcome.
So here's the question. Is it possible, for reasonable money (say less than $1500 or so) to build up a 22-23 lb Surly that will be good for commuting, a little light off-road, credit-card touring--all the stuff people who don't actually race cyclocross buy a Surly for??
Is the whole "heavy" thing really a product of folks who ride 17lb bikes? Are the components and wheels really the main issue here?
I would love to hear more feedback on the Surly vs. Soma debate, any actual Crosscheck weights, and any other suggestions you have. I have learned a ton reading these forums--thanks, but although I really like to ride I don't know a lot about the technical aspects--choosing components, etc. I've found a local shop that I like, has a lightly used Surly in my size, and is being very helpful in terms of working with my physical needs.
I'm posting in the Commuting forum because I think it represents a group of riders who are more likely to ride for similar reasons to myself--for pleasure and transportation, and less so for racing.
Thanks again
I'm probably buying a Crosscheck in the next few weeks. I've done what internet research I can. Almost everyone loves the bike, but almost everyone complains about the weight. I am only concerned about the weight issue because of some serious back problems (not supposed to lift more than 35lbs ever again and even that much not too often ). I'm getting rid of my current hybrid (Specialized Crossroads Comp) because of how heavy it is--I want to be able to put the thing on the car rack by myself easily. The back problems also mean I need to be pretty upright--more like a hybrid than a road bike--bars a couple of inches above the seat. (Pretty sure I'm going with the Jones h-bar, several positions and pretty lightweight)
The other bikes in contention are the Soma Doublecross, the Specialized Tricross, and maybe, just maybe, a Gunnar Crosshairs, but the Gunnar would be a huge stretch for the budget--the Soma is the real competition. I'm worried that with the pre-built bikes, the fork is already cut down which I think would make getting the bars up high harder. Also the Specialized and similar bikes almost always come with doubles and we have some pretty good hills here in Colorado (read "I'm not in phenomenal shape") and I want the bike to at least be able to take a triple.. Other suggestions are welcome.
So here's the question. Is it possible, for reasonable money (say less than $1500 or so) to build up a 22-23 lb Surly that will be good for commuting, a little light off-road, credit-card touring--all the stuff people who don't actually race cyclocross buy a Surly for??
Is the whole "heavy" thing really a product of folks who ride 17lb bikes? Are the components and wheels really the main issue here?
I would love to hear more feedback on the Surly vs. Soma debate, any actual Crosscheck weights, and any other suggestions you have. I have learned a ton reading these forums--thanks, but although I really like to ride I don't know a lot about the technical aspects--choosing components, etc. I've found a local shop that I like, has a lightly used Surly in my size, and is being very helpful in terms of working with my physical needs.
I'm posting in the Commuting forum because I think it represents a group of riders who are more likely to ride for similar reasons to myself--for pleasure and transportation, and less so for racing.
Thanks again
Last edited by Emerson; 02-04-06 at 12:57 AM.
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I would go with the Soma, as it has a better quality of steel used in the tubing, and the pricing is about the same. I dig Surly and all, but I just don't see why people choose Taiwanese BMX chro-moly over Reynolds 631. As far as the weight issue goes-strong, light, cheap-pick any two holds true here, but you know, it's not like all the frames you've listed are boat anchors, or anything, they're just a little heavier than aluminum, is all, but that's what you get when you want strong unless you have very deep pockets.
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Oh, and maybe look into the Lemond Poprad-sexy color,classic styling, good tubing, and good components, all within the pricepoint you listed.
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You'll go crazy trying t get a Crosscheck down to 22 lbs. Mine weighs about 26. But you know what? That's not that heavy. The only time my bike starts to feel heavy is when I put panniers on it and start filling them up for a day ride, or with groceries from the store. The bike feels like a racer after dropping that load. While I suspect you might have trouble hefting a 35-40 lb downhill bike onto your rack, a Crosscheck, sans baggage and water bottles, should be no problem.
Whatever you end up buying, try not to get sucked up into the low weight thing. For the most part you are right about it being most important to racers. For rough stuff commuting you need something reliable. And that 5 or 7 lbs will buy a bike that you can ride pretty much anywhere, within reason, and not have to worry about beating the crap out of it. If it's possible, goe to a shop that has some touring bikes on the floor. Pick a couple up and see for yourself if you think they're heavy. Then ask what the weight is. (Good luck finding a salesperson who actually knows, but that's another thread.) The race bikes will feel rediculously light by comparison. But I bet you won't find the touring bikes THAT heavy. It sounds like you know to stay away from comfort bikes, and that's good. All but the most expensive ones really are tanks.
I own both aluminum and steel frames. And yes, the steel does have a nicer ride.
DanO
Whatever you end up buying, try not to get sucked up into the low weight thing. For the most part you are right about it being most important to racers. For rough stuff commuting you need something reliable. And that 5 or 7 lbs will buy a bike that you can ride pretty much anywhere, within reason, and not have to worry about beating the crap out of it. If it's possible, goe to a shop that has some touring bikes on the floor. Pick a couple up and see for yourself if you think they're heavy. Then ask what the weight is. (Good luck finding a salesperson who actually knows, but that's another thread.) The race bikes will feel rediculously light by comparison. But I bet you won't find the touring bikes THAT heavy. It sounds like you know to stay away from comfort bikes, and that's good. All but the most expensive ones really are tanks.
I own both aluminum and steel frames. And yes, the steel does have a nicer ride.
DanO
Last edited by DanO220; 02-02-06 at 11:37 AM.
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What about the Burly Vagabond?
https://www.burley.com/products/road-...p=Vagabond&i=1
Why does this bike not get more attention in the commuter forums? It seems like a good fit for commuting (weight, components, ability to haul, etc) and at a competitive price-point, yet it doesn't get a sniff here?
The reason I mention it is it may be of intrest to Emerson and to get some feedback from other commuters.
https://www.burley.com/products/road-...p=Vagabond&i=1
Why does this bike not get more attention in the commuter forums? It seems like a good fit for commuting (weight, components, ability to haul, etc) and at a competitive price-point, yet it doesn't get a sniff here?
The reason I mention it is it may be of intrest to Emerson and to get some feedback from other commuters.
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I was debating between a Crosscheck and a 2005 Lemond Poprad and ended up with the Poprad as buidling the Crosscheck to similar specs would cost more. I have no regrets.
The 57cm Poprad with clipless pedals, bottle cages, brackets for lights & computer, Conti Gatorskin 700x25c (i.e. everything but saddlebag, lights, battery, racks, fenders) weighs 22.5lbs by bathroom scale subract my weight method.
Al
The 57cm Poprad with clipless pedals, bottle cages, brackets for lights & computer, Conti Gatorskin 700x25c (i.e. everything but saddlebag, lights, battery, racks, fenders) weighs 22.5lbs by bathroom scale subract my weight method.
Al
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yup, same here --was going to build up a crosscheck, considered a poprad, but the edge went to the Jamis Nova (22/75 lbs), which has everything I wanted to put on the crosscheck, plus a carbon fork and Reynolds 631 tubing: candy sl pedals, Shim. 105 components, external bearing BB, mavic open pro wheels, fender/rack action. Looks pretty nice, too. Beauty bike, rides awesome.
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My CrossCheck weighs in at about 24 lbs with 105 components. I'm not bothered by the weight for commuting, light touring, and off-roading. Practically speaking, he extra weight is negligable. However, on competitive road rides, the extra 5-7 lbs is a bit of a drag. The Jamis, Propad, and Soma frames look nice too. I don't think you can go wrong with any of these bikes.
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Thanks for the recommendations. I'm concerned with the Poprad or Nova about being able to get the bars up high enough. Can you get a rack and fenders on a Poprad? Can you put a triple up front on those bikes--I think for touring I might want a lower gear.
Last edited by Emerson; 02-03-06 at 10:00 AM.
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I know 24 lbs doesn't sound like much, but for me, with my back it is. And once I add a rack, a sprung saddle, etc we're pushing 26-27lbs which would cause my doc to roll her eyes and wag her finger at me.
I guess I have no choice but to tell my wife that I have to buy a Moots Psychlo-X YBB or Moo-tour.
I guess I have no choice but to tell my wife that I have to buy a Moots Psychlo-X YBB or Moo-tour.
#11
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Originally Posted by krispistoferson
I would go with the Soma, as it has a better quality of steel used in the tubing, and the pricing is about the same. I dig Surly and all, but I just don't see why people choose Taiwanese BMX chro-moly over Reynolds 631. As far as the weight issue goes-strong, light, cheap-pick any two holds true here, but you know, it's not like all the frames you've listed are boat anchors, or anything, they're just a little heavier than aluminum, is all, but that's what you get when you want strong unless you have very deep pockets.
#12
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Originally Posted by Emerson
I know 24 lbs doesn't sound like much, but for me, with my back it is. And once I add a rack, a sprung saddle, etc we're pushing 26-27lbs which would cause my doc to roll her eyes and wag her finger at me.
I guess I have no choice but to tell my wife that I have to buy a Moots Psychlo-X YBB or Moo-tour.
I guess I have no choice but to tell my wife that I have to buy a Moots Psychlo-X YBB or Moo-tour.
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I just got another Cross-Check frame for my next build. I was suprised how light the frame was compared to my built up fixed gear build. The weight really adds up quickly once you start hanging stuff on the frame.
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This is Africa, 1943. War spits out its violence overhead and the sandy graveyard swallows it up. Her name is King Nine, B-25, medium bomber, Twelfth Air Force. On a hot, still morning she took off from Tunisia to bomb the southern tip of Italy. An errant piece of flak tore a hole in a wing tank and, like a wounded bird, this is where she landed, not to return on this day, or any other day.
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That's been my general impression--the frame is not really the biggest part of the equation which also means that over time I can lighten the bike by upgrading components. Am I right here?
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So you want a good commuting bike with wide range gearing, rack fenders, steel frame, sprung saddle, < 25lb and < $1500. I think you will find that to be a tough task. A carbon fork and light wheels will help to meet your weight target but will eat heavily into your budget. You might want to weigh find lighter racks and perhaps a light weight saddle with suspension seat post will be more effective than a sprung saddle.
I think with your goals you will be better off going with a frame and building it yourself.
Craig
I think with your goals you will be better off going with a frame and building it yourself.
Craig
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i think the jamis nova is perfect for what your looking for. thats what i'd have bought if i wanted a complete geared bike (i test rode one and they are SUHWEET!).
i chose the crosscheck for the dropouts cause i run it singlespeed. bomber frame but definitely not light compared to others.
a nicely buted frame (like the gunnar) might save a pound or two but cost at least 500 more. dunno about the soma, that does sound nice!
btw, for the person who posted the burley what does that thing retail for??? i'd bet it doesn't make peoples lists cause it is $$$, not cause it isn't a good choice.
i chose the crosscheck for the dropouts cause i run it singlespeed. bomber frame but definitely not light compared to others.
a nicely buted frame (like the gunnar) might save a pound or two but cost at least 500 more. dunno about the soma, that does sound nice!
btw, for the person who posted the burley what does that thing retail for??? i'd bet it doesn't make peoples lists cause it is $$$, not cause it isn't a good choice.
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Originally Posted by max-a-mill
btw, for the person who posted the burley what does that thing retail for??? i'd bet it doesn't make peoples lists cause it is $$$, not cause it isn't a good choice.
Craig
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Burley is in the price range. Runabout w/ 7 speed nexus and disc brakes is just about $1100. https://bicyclesource.us/site/itemdetails.cfm?ID=3706
I think folks don't consider Burley commuters a whole lot because they don't post MSRPs on their website and you have to go to a dealer that carries them. Even if your LBS does have Burley, they probably have their racing and touring bikes, but not their commuters.
I think folks don't consider Burley commuters a whole lot because they don't post MSRPs on their website and you have to go to a dealer that carries them. Even if your LBS does have Burley, they probably have their racing and touring bikes, but not their commuters.
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Burley Vagabond=27lbs
Burly Runabout 7=30.5, Runabout 27=29.5
too heavy for me to lift comfortably. Thanks for the suggestion though.
According to Speedgoat, the difference in weight between a Gunnar Crosshairs and a Surly Crosscheck is about a pound. This is what confuses me. Sure a pound is big, big deal to serious roadies and racers, but, even for me with the back stuff, a pound doesn't sound like a big deal. Why do regular folks say the Crosscheck is so heavy?
Burly Runabout 7=30.5, Runabout 27=29.5
too heavy for me to lift comfortably. Thanks for the suggestion though.
According to Speedgoat, the difference in weight between a Gunnar Crosshairs and a Surly Crosscheck is about a pound. This is what confuses me. Sure a pound is big, big deal to serious roadies and racers, but, even for me with the back stuff, a pound doesn't sound like a big deal. Why do regular folks say the Crosscheck is so heavy?
Last edited by Emerson; 02-03-06 at 12:36 PM.
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Originally Posted by Emerson
Why do regular folks say the Crosscheck is so heavy?
Yeah, it's probably one or two pounds heavier than X frame with carbon fork, but look at the options you've got.
Fish vs Fowl.
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Another option is to get a used ti Airborne Carpe Diem from Ebay. Or you can get a new one if you travel in the UK. It weighs less than 20lbs with Ultegra
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I've thought about a Carpe Diem, but I'd be very reluctant to buy a bike without having ridden it first. I just don't have enough experience for that. As to going to the UK, so now I have to tell my wife that I am not only buying a Ti frame, but I have to go to England to do it. I can see that going over well.
Why did Airborne stop selling in the US? Anyone know?
Why did Airborne stop selling in the US? Anyone know?
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I think it's fairly risk free to buy a bike online as long as you already know the geometry and tube lengths that you like. or alternatively you could visit a few bike shops, try out a bunch of bikes with similar geometries and take notes on the fit. Most builders have the stats online so you can compare. worst case you can turn around and sell it usually for the same price you bought it for.
Airborne didn't stop selling in the US, but changed their name to Flyte and discontinued the CD in ti. I don't know why.
Airborne didn't stop selling in the US, but changed their name to Flyte and discontinued the CD in ti. I don't know why.
#24
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Hi Emerson, I have not weighed this machine, but this is a Cross-Check that I built up in January. I also wanted an upright position and used the Nitto North Road bar. Thought you might be interested in seeing it, since you are thinking about a more upright riding position. The link below is to a photo:
The wheels are Mavic Speed Cities that came off my previous commuter, I also reused the pedals, and saddle. My build cost was a little over $900, but that does not include the cost of the items I reused.
The wheels are Mavic Speed Cities that came off my previous commuter, I also reused the pedals, and saddle. My build cost was a little over $900, but that does not include the cost of the items I reused.
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#25
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I think mine will wind up looking pretty similar. I assume you're happy with it. Why did you go with the Surly?