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How to remove rust from the bottom of the seat tube

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Old 03-13-24, 09:42 AM
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cemark
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How to remove rust from the bottom of the seat tube

While changing my seat post I saw that there were rust in the seat tube all the way down to the bottom bracket area. I managed to clean almost all the rust with a steel wool but I couldn't reach the junction of the bottom bracket and seat tube with the wool. Because of the cylinder shape of the bottom bracket and seat tube junction some rust were piled up there and I would like to clean off that part too for peace of mind. How can I do that without removing the bottom bracket? I don't have the tools for it.
I have read that there are some products for rust but as I won't be able to reach that part , rust and used product will remain there?
What are my options? What should I be doing?
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Old 03-13-24, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by cemark
What are my options? What should I be doing?
You should be riding more!

I don’t see enough rust to worry about.

Barry

nice picture BTW
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Old 03-13-24, 09:52 AM
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If you're really worried about it, turn the frame upside down and use a rifle cleaning rod with a 10 gauge brass bristle cleaning brush attached. Plenty of penetrating oil, then clean with cotton patches attached to the rod.

Or just take out the BB...
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Old 03-13-24, 10:30 AM
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Surface rust is a built in defense mechanism for steel. Don't worry about it. Maybe just drip some lube or other petroleum based preservative. My steel bikes all had surface rust on the entire surface inside every tube I could see into. They'll last a long time if you just make sure the bike is kept in a dry environment most of the time and it's drain holes aren't blocked and preventing them from eliminating any moisture that gets in.
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Old 03-13-24, 10:43 AM
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cemark
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I can't find gun related products where I live as it's forbidden to have gun but it gave me an idea to look for a similar kind of stuff.
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Old 03-13-24, 10:45 AM
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would it be ok to dripping preservative on top of existing rust? Now it seems fine but I am just worried it would be more serious problem in the future.

Last edited by cemark; 03-13-24 at 03:00 PM.
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Old 03-13-24, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by cemark
would it be ok to dripping preservative on top of existing rust? Now it seems fine but I am just working it would be more serious problem in the future.
Might cause more issues with the BB

I would get the tool(s) to take the BB out. They are pretty cheap.
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Old 03-13-24, 02:59 PM
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Guys,
The photo is showing the 1/2" hole in the top of the BB (shell). The seat tube is then attached over the top of that 1/2" hole in the shell.
If you remove the BB cups, bearings and axle, what do you plan on doing through that 1/2" hole ?


Barry
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Old 03-13-24, 03:14 PM
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Um

Pipecleaner?
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Old 03-13-24, 03:39 PM
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Bamboo/dowl & a pipecleaner = no need to remove the BB.
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Old 03-14-24, 02:40 AM
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That's the problem. Removing the BB only helps being able to get rid of if any residue coming after seat tube cleaning goes through that small hole. Besides that I can't reach bottom of the seat tube from that little hole through BB. I tried that several months ago when I had the same rusting problem in the seat tube.
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Old 03-14-24, 03:25 AM
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Just spray some frame saver or a similar waxy product into the tube. All you need to do is prevent oxygen from getting to the rust. Without oxygen, there can be no further iron oxide(rust)
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Old 03-14-24, 03:49 AM
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Based on all of your suggestions I found exactly what I need but only problem is how to reach to the end of the seat tube. I need to attach this to some kind of stick that will hold it steady and also swirl when I twirl the stick too.


But in any case, even I can't manage to get rid of the rust I will definitely use a frame saver substitute as I can't find it where I live.
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Old 03-14-24, 05:45 AM
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Everything said above is valid; That appears to be a tiny amount of rust, and you could spray something to prevent further rust, WD-40 actually works well at that, I sprayed the inside of the frame tubes of my steel folding bike with that. But if the rust is bothering you, get a small paint brush or disposable "acid" brush (just looks like small paintbrush), attach to the end of a long stick, and paint the rusted area with "Ospho", which is a mild phosphoric acid solution, not dangerous if you get on your hands, just wash it off. Ospho will turn red rust to black iron phosphate, helping stop the rust. On bare steel that is not stainless, it will turn it a flat gray, this is a mild version of "Parkerizing", the flat gray finish on steel firearms by the USA military in the 20th century. Ospho is not a huge barrier to rust, it is often used to stop rust before painting, supposedly you can paint right over it, but I found that the paint will "bubble" if the Ospho is not dry for about a week. I still like to use primer over the Ospho, my preference is Rustoleum brand "rusty metal primer", and then paint.
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Old 03-14-24, 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by cemark
Based on all of your suggestions I found exactly what I need but only problem is how to reach to the end of the seat tube. I need to attach this to some kind of stick that will hold it steady and also swirl when I twirl the stick too.


But in any case, even I can't manage to get rid of the rust I will definitely use a frame saver substitute as I can't find it where I live.
Ideally, get a piece of steel tubing, perhaps hydraulic tubing, inside diameter a close slip fit with the wirebrush shaft. Then either cement the wirebrush shaft in place with epoxy, or slot the end of the tubing and put a small hose clamp around it. Then put other end of tubing in drill-motor, and put brush down in the hole, and start drill; As the drill rotates fast, those wirebrush bristles will extend outward to the side walls of the seat tube. USE SAFETY GLASSES WITH ANY ROTATING WIRE BRUSH!! If any wire bristles come loose, they can do so at great speed and puncture your eye.
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Old 03-14-24, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Duragrouch
USE SAFETY GLASSES WITH ANY ROTATING WIRE BRUSH!! If any wire bristles come loose, they can do so at great speed and puncture your eye.
From deep inside a seat tube? That would be a neat trick.
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Old 03-14-24, 07:49 AM
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Evapo-Rust will convert the rust to a benign substance without harming any other materials. It is available in local hardware stores. Andy

The Best Rust Remover | Quick & Easy with CRC's Evapo-Rust®
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Old 03-14-24, 07:52 AM
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Good safety habits mean you won't have to consider whether any particular circumstances are a large enough potential hazard or not. Safety glasses are a good suggestion.
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Old 03-14-24, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Iride01
Good safety habits mean you won't have to consider whether any particular circumstances are a large enough potential hazard or not. Safety glasses are a good suggestion.
Of course! I wear 'em all the time! Never know when an errant toenail clipping might pierce the ol' cornea!
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Old 03-14-24, 09:49 AM
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Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I will buy that adapter and will try to stick it to a metal or some kind of a stick and will do my best to get rid of the rust. I know that even at this state this frames will outlive me but my mild ocd keeps reminding me there is some kind of a flaw with my bicycle. Unfortunately this bicycle is my most valuable thing and I love to take care of my bicycles.
After the cleaning I will either use Evapo-Rust, if I can find, or use a rust protective primer spray for metals that I found close by hardware store.
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Old 03-14-24, 11:47 AM
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I guess I am missing something. I simply ask that my frames get frame-saved when painted or do it myself with AMD Heavy Duty Metal Protection. Clean up whatever gets on the paint, reassemble and ride. I am not enough of a weight weenie that I obsess over the grams of rust I am carrying around. Oh, I might do a little wiping or light sanding of what I can reach easily inside the BB simply to be putting the BB cups or cartridge in a cleaner place, but again, zero obsession.

All that work inside the seat tube? Who's going to know? Are you lifting the seatpost out or pulling the BB cups at the club ride espresso stop?

Actually I love that each can do what works for them. And I did just purchase, had a crack repaired and am now going to prep and paint the heat affected area of a 40 yo frame that is an exact match to one I am going to retire because of rust - but that retiring frame was left outdoors a LONG time before I got it. Real rust damage. All time sweet ride so I jumped when a rust free one showed up - with a different issue.
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Old 03-14-24, 01:18 PM
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RJ the bike guy has a video on this in his Diy tools playlist. A wire coat hanger with a thingamajig at the end.
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Old 03-14-24, 06:15 PM
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I also forgot, besides Ospho, I have some "Phosphoric Acid Cleaner", which disolves rust instantly, I used it on a new carbon steel skillet that I was going to heat-blue, but then just rinsing that off and there was fine surface rust almost immediately, needed to dry it in seconds.

I looked up the Safety Data Sheet for Evapo-Rust, and besides 80% water (normal), the other 20% was "Proprietary secret ingredient", I was wondering if it was phosphoric acid.
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Old 03-14-24, 06:51 PM
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Note, didn't read every post, so sorry for any duplication.

Why bother?

The damage, if any, is already done. Removing the rust won't change that. Moreover, removing what's left of the natural oxide layer only invites more rust.

Leave bad enough alone. Apply a waxy oil using a wadded up rag and a stick, to prevent new rust, then forget about it.

Last edited by FBinNY; 03-14-24 at 06:54 PM.
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Old 03-14-24, 06:53 PM
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(above) I agree. But sometimes a doctor humors a nervous patient. Or lets them check that light switch a third time to see that it's off. I get OCD.
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