ElliotSF

Hello T-Mar and other Miyata experts: Is this bike a Miyata? Chrome? If so, which model? Thanks.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bik/6866043695.html

m_sasso

It may be a MIATA, however it is almost assuredly not a Miyata. Base on the fork, lugs, drop out attachment, difficult to see much detail on the frame from the pictures at a distance.

rccardr 

Completely forgot to post a few pics of my recently completed Miyata 1200...

SurferRosa

^ boss

Lemond1985

I had no idea Dura Ace components went so far back. They've gotta have some value just due to the rarity. I would love to shine those up and see how they looked.

uncleivan 

uncleivan 

93 team titanium.

j.scud.22

1986 One Thousand - My primary ride these days. I'm getting bike acquisition syndrome for one of the racier Miyatas in this thread, but I consider myself lucky to have found this locally and with low miles. FWIW, I'd take this hands down over the Surly LHT I had and sold for ride quality and enjoyment, anyway.

squirtdad

all done

84 team miyata

SurferRosa

^ Looks great.

Diggin' your short brake cable housing, like the tdf did it back in the day.

squirtdad

Thanks, I don't like the big loops..... Probably i went a little short, but I have full front wheel movement with no pull on the housing so all is good

SurferRosa

Same here. I find that no matter how short mine are, they always look too long over the bars in photos.

So many of my new builds are flips, I like to leave 'em a little long so the new owner can raise the stem. But on my own bikes, I like 'em short. Not 1981 tdf short, but ... well ... perfect.

The Golden Boy 

BEAUTIFUL bikes on this page!!!

dim

my latest purchase .... a Miyata One Thousand: (I will only receive it in a weeks time) ..... I wanted a winter bike with mudguards, a bike that can take wider tyres and a bike that will hold it's value .... I have a fast bike (Trek Emonda SL6 with Dura Ace Di2, very good wheels and stages powermeter)
























a few questions ...

I am not sure which year this was made (I will check the serial number when I get it) I'm not sure if these wheels are 27 inch or 700c and I'm not sure what the rear frame spacing is (can I convert to a 10 or 11 speed) .... brakes look a bit dodgy and is it possible to convert to modern Ultegra .... I'm not sure if I will enjoy the biospace crankset

I'm not planning on selling the bike, but wish to upgrade it a bit for Audax rides and some touring (I would keep the original parts in case I ever decided to sell it) .... I will definately have another wheelset built with HED Belgium plus rims, Son 28 dynamo hub, dynamo lights and perhaps a Chris King rear hub .... a definately a powermeter ... I have a grey Brooks 17 Cambium Carved saddle which I will be fitting on the bike .... I will also use tubeless tyres

any suggestions/comments?

Dfrost 

@dim,
That looks like a lovely 1000! You know about Miyata’s alphabet-based serial numbers, right? For reference, my ‘79 starts with H.

Since yours-to-be is not an LT version, then it has slightly shorter chainstays, so more sports tourer than fully-loaded touring bike, but still quite suitable for touring, while being more lively the rest of the time - a great combination! So it should be fantastic for your desired uses and modifications. Being a steel frame, rear spacing is no problem. Most would say that cantilever brakes with modern pads are anything but “dodgy”, and those look like excellent canti arms. Look at other threads regarding 1000’s (calling @RiddleOfSteel) if you have a wheel size issue.

I’d also suggest running the shift cables to the opposite sides, then cross under the downtube, to eliminate housing rub in the head tube.

dim

thanks for that! .... I'm excited and will use this bike for commuting (52km/day .... 6 days a week) and for some long weekend rides (uip to 200km) .... and definately for some longer Audax rides ...

I will remove the front pannier rack but keep the rear rack as I will add my Garmin Varia Radar unit and back dynamo light to the rack as I won't have much sapce on the seat stay (I'm planning on getting a Carradice Camper Longflap saddle bag (23 litres) .... which will rest/be supported by the rear rack .... more than enough storage space for long 600km+ Audax rides




I have Miss Grape lightweigh bags aswell which I use on my other bike (the following pc is not of my bike, just showing the bags):

Dfrost 

You might want to try front panniers when you tour. If the front end geometry is appropriate, a front load can feel much nicer than rear - less “tail wagging the dog” feel, and doesn’t depend on frame stiffness for good handling at any speed.

dim

my son says that I should look closely at the Gilles Berthoud saddles and bags ... looks a lot more classier than the Carradice:

Dfrost 

Love, love, love my GB saddles. Just got another Aravis that’s breaking in now. The GB leather is noticeably thicker at 7mm than the thickest Brooks of my experience. So it takes longer to break in but worth it. Also note that the GB frame attachments are below the saddle seating surface. (I’d end up sitting on the rivets of aTeam Pro.) BTW, I needed a slot in my longest running Brooks B-17 to prevent the dreaded perineal pressure, but because of subtleties in the GB design, have never felt the need for a slot.

Here’s my first Aravis when new, and a year later. It’s much darker now after 10,000 miles, and still super comfortable.

dim

that is class! looks better than a honey coloured Brooks (more 'sportier'

Dfrost 

Here it is now:



And since this is a Miyata thread, the Aravis above has been temporarily moved over to the ‘79 912 while I break in the new black Aravis for the black Miyata, while I ride this other “M” bike more in the nice weather.

curbtender

I see you have the brazen-on's for the numbers plate and the downtube also. I was wondering if they sold with those.

RiddleOfSteel

@dim that 1000 looks to be a 1986 model given the color scheme and components. I love 1000s, and this is no exception. Graphics/lettering is a different color, but then, who knows what Miyata changed for various markets. 1987 had the name change to 1000 LT, though it appears to have kept the same measurements. By 1984/1985, a 1000 had 44.5cm chain stays, up 1cm from 1982 (of which I had one), which was up a few mm from 1979/1980.

The brakes are cantilever style as you know, and no short reach Ultegra side pull caliper is going to come close to fitting, let alone working. The canti brakes are Deore XT--the specific code of which I don't remember--and are very well regarded canti brakes of their time. New pads (salmon colored Kool Stops) will help tremendously with braking performance over old pads. The triangle form of the canti arms is, I think, a boon for braking power and solid lever feel. The wedge-type washers help with setting toe. Cantis are always a bit fiddly to set up, and to set up well, but it can be done. Braking performance is not going to be 9100 Dura-Ace strong, just to set expectations. This is 1986 and cantis are the primary alternative to single pivot side pull brakes, as dual pivots were at least half a decade from being introduced. Even really good single pivots weren't as good as mid-level (Shimano 105) dual pivots, especially as one gets taller and heavier (1.95m / 95kg as I am).

Wheels are 700C (it's in one of the pictures--thank you for the many pictures!), which is a big upgrade over the former 27" setup that was standard on early tourers ('70s through mid-'80s or so). I was able to lean the canti arms out on my '82 1000 and successfully work those brakes with 700C wheels (4mm less radius than a 27" rim). The canti posts were also very narrow, and I believe Miyata slowly widened them as time went on, though likely not by 1986.

Rear spacing is 126mm, so popping a 130mm axle for 10 or 11 speeds is no problem. It's steel, and it's only 4mm total--no cold setting is necessary. I run 130mm axles in 126mm dropouts all the time, without issue, as have many many people over time. Like you look to be planning, I enjoy "hotrodding" bikes, and did that very thing to an '84 Miyata 610 (shown below), taking a "sport tourer" (with 45cm chain stays...) and revamping it with 7900 STIs, an XT RD working an 11-36T cassette, coupled with a compact crankset and lightweight (sub 1600g) wheels. Original canti's were ditched in favor of Deore LX units from the '90s or so. Looked great and worked pretty well, too.

Congrats and welcome to the Miyata club, especially to the Miyata 1000 club. The bikes have a truly regal ride and steering quality to them. Very graceful, smooth, and unflappable. Not slow or sluggish mind you, as my '82 played just fine when out of the saddle. We all think you'll enjoy the bike a lot!

uncleivan 

I'm pretty sure the team titanium bikes all had the plate hanger, but I haven't found too much information on the them in general. Its a bit frustrating.

The Golden Boy 

First- Congratulations! The Miyata 1000 is a "lifetime bike." This is a 1985 model- it's a pretty slick model. It's a triple butted frame with Deore XT and 600/Ultegra components- from back when Deore XT was the top of the line. So basically it was a top of the line frame with top of the line and 2nd from top of the line components. It was pretty close to a flagship model bike. IMO- a bike of this caliber is as capable as any modern tourer, while being much more elegant and graceful.

https://www.ragandbone.ca/PDFs/Miyat...logue%2085.pdf

This would have come with 700c wheels with a 5 speed rear end. My guess is it was probably spaced around 126. Just a guess- but you'd probably be able to get a 130 in there without much trouble- so yes- you could go to 10 speed with this frame- I'm running a 10 speed 130 hub on a 1985 frame. However, this bike is equipped with friction bar end shifters- these shifter do not have the fine tuning ability to accurately shift between the cogs on a 10 speed spaced cog.

This is a "grail" level touring bike. It's a "touring bike." It's not a "go fast" bike. Touring bikes generally have brakes that are more robust than "racing" style bikes. They're meant to stop a bike, a rider and a rider's touring load. This bike has Shimano XT cantilever brakes- among the very best brakes ever made. If you were to switch to Ultegra side pull brakes- it probably wouldn't have the stopping power of properly set up cantilevers. Additionally, you'd have the unused cantilever bosses sticking out of the fork and stays- and that would look stupid. Not only would it look stupid, but it would also broadcast that the owner was stupid enough to not use cantilever brakes.

While I believe people may underestimate the handling of touring frames as heavy and slow- I think you should also realize these bikes were meant to haul heavy loads over great distances. They were not built to be lightweight, "quick" handling, or particularly nimble. This may not be the ideal bike to have a powermeter on. You may like the BioPace rings, you may not, or you may not notice the difference.

IMO/IME- this is a bike to have wide tires on (in excess of 32mm- more like 35 or so).

This is a bike that was meant to have around a 26 pound fighting weight. If you're expecting this bike to handle and respond like a 21 pound racing bike- you may be disappointed.

You have a full-on touring bike with a full compliment of custom sized racks that were designed and fitted to this bike. To remove them kind of neuters what this bike is about. The rear racks look to be custom fitted to this size frame with the rack bosses in that particular location.

You also may wish to remove and set aside the Miyata Radial tires- of if you're into parting out your stuff- the Miyata Radial tires are pretty unique and could possibly bring some decent money.

People that are into "modern" bikes don't often understand how awesome the Mirrycle mirror for non-aero levers actually are. They look really old fashioned- but they ALWAYS point directly behind you- regardless of which way your head is turned- and it's just a quick flick of your eyes- you don't need to look for and locate the mirror, then think of where the mirror is pointing.. you glance at the mirror and you know where it's pointing and immediately see what's behind you.

You have a REALLY REALLY desirable bike- based on your questions and comments- it seems that this bike may not be particularly good fit for you. I would urge you to evaluate what that bike was created to do- vs. what you expect that bike to do. There's a good chance you could meet in the middle- but I would also not try to fit the square peg into the round hole.

best!