New jockey wheel > skipping chain
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New jockey wheel > skipping chain
hi, how far do you run down jockey-wheels¿ (mine are down to sharky teeth).
so i ordered one replacement-wheel (one first to see if it fits) and put it in.
now the chain starts skipping, strangely enough -and even more so in most, but not all gears.
any ideas? gracias!
ps, ordered a second wheel - maybe changing both at the same time will stop the skipping?
so i ordered one replacement-wheel (one first to see if it fits) and put it in.
now the chain starts skipping, strangely enough -and even more so in most, but not all gears.
any ideas? gracias!
ps, ordered a second wheel - maybe changing both at the same time will stop the skipping?
Last edited by la xerra; 06-24-19 at 12:12 PM. Reason: typo
#2
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I buy Tacx pulleys they're nylon.. and quieter I have them on
chain tensioners.. & friction shifted derailleurs
BITD pulleys were just round , because chain side plates were bigger than chain rollers..
now for faster shifting the chain's side plates are same width as the rollers , so your pulleys need teeth
at least the top one.
....
chain tensioners.. & friction shifted derailleurs
BITD pulleys were just round , because chain side plates were bigger than chain rollers..
now for faster shifting the chain's side plates are same width as the rollers , so your pulleys need teeth
at least the top one.
....
Last edited by fietsbob; 06-25-19 at 08:14 AM.
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Note that the upper wheel may be different than the lower wheel. One is a jockey wheel, the other an idler wheel. I forget exactly which, but you can look it up as easily as I could.
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the upper/guide pulley usually has a designed in side float to allow for manufacturing tolerances and general wear. Not all replacement pulleys have this end play. Andy
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AndrewRStewart
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thanks all for the feedback. much appreciated.
i had no idea that those 2 wheels were no identical ( liv n nevr learn )
i´ll wait till the 2nd wheel i ordered gets in and then take the beast apart.
roughly speaking: the difference betw jockey and idler are... the bearings??
and: could i convert a new idler (which what i bought, i guess) with parts of the old worn-down jockey into a ´new´ jockey?
anyhow, in case somebody is curious, thats the gear i bought (and that causes skipping):
ebay.es + /itm/Bicicleta-Jockey-rueda-de-aluminio-derailleur-trasero-11T-engranaje-Gu%C3%ADa-polea/223327827520?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=522118783341&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
i had no idea that those 2 wheels were no identical ( liv n nevr learn )
i´ll wait till the 2nd wheel i ordered gets in and then take the beast apart.
roughly speaking: the difference betw jockey and idler are... the bearings??
and: could i convert a new idler (which what i bought, i guess) with parts of the old worn-down jockey into a ´new´ jockey?
anyhow, in case somebody is curious, thats the gear i bought (and that causes skipping):
ebay.es + /itm/Bicicleta-Jockey-rueda-de-aluminio-derailleur-trasero-11T-engranaje-Gu%C3%ADa-polea/223327827520?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=522118783341&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
#6
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As said above, In indexing, like STI, t
he top pulley has to float sideways, so as to align over the cassette cog ,
because the indexing is not 100% on, every time, even if the derailleur hanger
remains in spot on alignment.
he top pulley has to float sideways, so as to align over the cassette cog ,
because the indexing is not 100% on, every time, even if the derailleur hanger
remains in spot on alignment.
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Once again the simple answer is not the complete one (and I am guilty of providing part but not all the answer). Another difference between guide and tension pulleys is their tooth profilers. The tension pulley has to deal with chain engagement angles that differ as one shifts across the cog set and/or the rings. So these teeth are often more pointed as one looks at them from the plane the pulley sits in. The guide pulley has the chain engaging from the lower pulley so it's teeth don't need to handle off angles. But the guide pulley does need to hold the chain well as it tries to move side to side during shifting. These pulley teeth are often more squared off at their tops to better fit snugly within the chain's links/rollers. Before indexing these subtle tooth shapes were not as needed as the friction levers were simple just moved a tad more to shift then trimmed back to a centered under the cog position by the rider's hand. Andy
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AndrewRStewart
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the ´funny´ thing is: i put the very same (old) j-wheel back in, and now the gears dont shift as smoothly as before (didnt make any adjustments when i tried out the new wheel briefly)...