A little advice? Spokesperson needed . . .
#1
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A little advice? Spokesperson needed . . .
Hi fellow Bike Forums members, might I ask for a little advice? I am going to attempt changing the rims on my lovely 1980 Fuji Gran Tourer SE to alloy. The spokes measure at 0.08" 2.0mm, which equates to #12 AWG and they appear to be 300mm long. I've never had to buy spokes before (lucky me) and am looking for the best, and stainless to boot . . . any advice on what and where?
#2
Banned.
Spoke length is dependent on the hub, the rim and the lacing.
There are many online calculators:
https://www.google.com/search?newwin...sclient=psy-ab
This one is easy to use: https://leonard.io/edd/
There are many online calculators:
https://www.google.com/search?newwin...sclient=psy-ab
This one is easy to use: https://leonard.io/edd/
#3
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Many thanks! Any advice on what brand and who sells them? There are quite a few out there, and I'm not familiar with them . . .
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#5
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Hah! I'm learning already! I had looked it up in my Engineer's Reference but no mention of the different sizing for bikes.
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#7
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Is there room to slide your brake pads down about 1/4" ?
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probably cheaper to buy wheelset https://www.velomine.com/index.php?m...roducts_id=739New Sun CR18 Polished Silver 27" clincher rims
36 Silver DT Champion 2.0 Spokes
Quando Sealed Cartridge Bearing Hubs - LOW FLANGE
Rims are drilled for Presta Valve
Rear wheel is 1073g (1138 w/the skewer), front wheel is 994g (1055 w/the skewer)
9mm Quick Release Front Hub
10mm Quick Release Rear Hub
100mm Spacing Front Fits Almost All Forks
126mm Rear Spacing for 5/6/7 speed freewheels.
Double walled 27" wheels
Velo Mine customer service phone 217.679.2356 - text 217.827.1173 - email ben@velomine.comÂ
36 Silver DT Champion 2.0 Spokes
Quando Sealed Cartridge Bearing Hubs - LOW FLANGE
Rims are drilled for Presta Valve
Rear wheel is 1073g (1138 w/the skewer), front wheel is 994g (1055 w/the skewer)
9mm Quick Release Front Hub
10mm Quick Release Rear Hub
100mm Spacing Front Fits Almost All Forks
126mm Rear Spacing for 5/6/7 speed freewheels.
Double walled 27" wheels
Velo Mine customer service phone 217.679.2356 - text 217.827.1173 - email ben@velomine.comÂ
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(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
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Nice that you want to change the rims yourself.
1. I highly recommend that you download Roger Musson's Wheel building book.
2. And use the Leondard calculator mentioned above.
3. And in my experience, it is best to round up spoke lengths.
1. I highly recommend that you download Roger Musson's Wheel building book.
2. And use the Leondard calculator mentioned above.
3. And in my experience, it is best to round up spoke lengths.
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https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...p?category=779
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Although DB spokes make for a stronger wheel, I'm wondering if it makes much difference in the OP's case. The bike won't see competitive or extreme riding conditions and the spokes may or may not be tensioned properly when he's done.
#14
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Yes, Sapim, Wheelsmith, and DT are the thre brands most often mentioned. Probably the most economical these days are the Sapim, but compare the exact item you're looking for. Be careful not to order straight pull or colored spokes, if you want j bend and silver.
In the last months I've bought spokes from prowheelbuilder.com, wheelbuildingparts.com (which has the least expensive straight gauge spokes), and treefort. Prices are pretty comparable, shipping costs are reasonable, and service for all is good. Used to buy from European sellers, but buying spokes from them has gotten strange in the last couple years, perhaps because of tariff issues.
If you're using all the same gauge spokes (2.0 mm), you can use any brand of nipples. DT 2.0 X 12mm nipples are available in boxes of 100 or bags of 500 and are as good a buy as any. Nashbar has them in the 100 box for a decent price with decent shipping costs. If you want exactly the number of nipples to match the spokes, probably get them with the spokes for convenience.
edit: Before you order spokes, make some measurements on your rims and hubs and use a spoke calculator to verify the length. Then do it again, very carefully. You have some room for error in spoke selection, but you want to make sure you buy spokes that will work. Having $50 of spokes you can't use is no fun
In the last months I've bought spokes from prowheelbuilder.com, wheelbuildingparts.com (which has the least expensive straight gauge spokes), and treefort. Prices are pretty comparable, shipping costs are reasonable, and service for all is good. Used to buy from European sellers, but buying spokes from them has gotten strange in the last couple years, perhaps because of tariff issues.
If you're using all the same gauge spokes (2.0 mm), you can use any brand of nipples. DT 2.0 X 12mm nipples are available in boxes of 100 or bags of 500 and are as good a buy as any. Nashbar has them in the 100 box for a decent price with decent shipping costs. If you want exactly the number of nipples to match the spokes, probably get them with the spokes for convenience.
edit: Before you order spokes, make some measurements on your rims and hubs and use a spoke calculator to verify the length. Then do it again, very carefully. You have some room for error in spoke selection, but you want to make sure you buy spokes that will work. Having $50 of spokes you can't use is no fun
Last edited by desconhecido; 05-13-20 at 01:09 PM.
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Yep. If you have the rims already, measure like in Roger's book. Go DT spokes and matching nipples from Universal. If the difference in price between butted or straight guage spokes is insignificant to you, go double butted -- they are cooler. If you don't already have the rims, AND you are not invested heavily in the 27inch tire department, seriously consider going the 700c route for future interchangeability.
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#16
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Thank you all for the several comments! I have rims already (interestingly, mounted onto the fully-built wheels that Squirtdad recommended above, see the photo and his link is here: https://www.velomine.com/index.php?m...roducts_id=739). Makes spending $40 on spokes seem like a poor proposition compared with the whole lot for $139 which includes skewers. My only concern is that there is quite a noticeable seam on the rims and I have never had sealed cartridge bearings before - I wonder how long they would last?
The 1980 hubs are Sunshine as in the attached picture. I put new balls with Park grease after cleaning up the hubs and they run nicely.
I barely have 1/4" to drop the brake blocks, so 700c could be problematic.
The 1980 hubs are Sunshine as in the attached picture. I put new balls with Park grease after cleaning up the hubs and they run nicely.
I barely have 1/4" to drop the brake blocks, so 700c could be problematic.
#17
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the fully-built wheels that Squirtdad recommended above, see the photo and his link is here: https://www.velomine.com/index.php?m...roducts_id=739). Makes spending $40 on spokes seem like a poor proposition compared with the whole lot for $139 which includes skewers.
Spend the $40 on Sapim Race spokes from danscomp.com, use your own polished, overhauled, and vintage hubs, and build those wheels far, far better than velomine ever could.
My only concern is that there is quite a noticeable seam on the rims.
If it looks normal, but there is a slight ridge, you can sand it down.
#18
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SurferRosa, this is exactly what I needed to hear . . .I'm gonna change those rims! Good to know on sanding the new ones, it seems mild (see below) but then I am an engineer and used to finding fault. Does it look bad? It's barely visible on the second rim.
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Albion - The key is the edge lined up without a step. The gap may even close a little when you lace it up to the proper tension. Typically the joint will have an insert to line them up to avoid butt welding and grinding. That rim looks very serviceable to me (also an engineer).
Alternative is to use clamps and a BFH!
Alternative is to use clamps and a BFH!
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#20
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Many thanks! I'm long past the Amazon return window.
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Thank you all for the several comments! I have rims already (interestingly, mounted onto the fully-built wheels that Squirtdad recommended above, see the photo and his link is here: https://www.velomine.com/index.php?m...roducts_id=739). Makes spending $40 on spokes seem like a poor proposition compared with the whole lot for $139 which includes skewers. My only concern is that there is quite a noticeable seam on the rims and I have never had sealed cartridge bearings before - I wonder how long they would last?
The 1980 hubs are Sunshine as in the attached picture. I put new balls with Park grease after cleaning up the hubs and they run nicely.
I barely have 1/4" to drop the brake blocks, so 700c could be problematic.
The 1980 hubs are Sunshine as in the attached picture. I put new balls with Park grease after cleaning up the hubs and they run nicely.
I barely have 1/4" to drop the brake blocks, so 700c could be problematic.
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But they also charge $40 or so in shipping. Their hubs are modern looking wih externally cammed skewers. Blech! And aren't their spokes single gauge?
Spend the $40 on Sapim Race spokes from danscomp.com, use your own polished, overhauled, and vintage hubs, and build those wheels far, far better than velomine ever could.
If it looks defective, send 'em back. I've had to do this once or twice before with Sun rims from a certain online shop that shall remain unnamed.
If it looks normal, but there is a slight ridge, you can sand it down.
Spend the $40 on Sapim Race spokes from danscomp.com, use your own polished, overhauled, and vintage hubs, and build those wheels far, far better than velomine ever could.
If it looks defective, send 'em back. I've had to do this once or twice before with Sun rims from a certain online shop that shall remain unnamed.
If it looks normal, but there is a slight ridge, you can sand it down.
#23
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#24
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Thanks so much - this is really encouraging. Now on to working out the spokes. One thing is for sure, they ain't the same as the current ones
#25
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