For Campagnolo Delta Brake Fans/Owners
#1
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For Campagnolo Delta Brake Fans/Owners
I understand these brakes use a 3.5mm Allen wrench (hex key, if you prefer). I also understand that these specific wrenches were (a) nonstandard at time of the Delta brake's introduction, (b) were supplied with the brakes, and (c) were for a long time almost impossible to replace if lost.
Well, today apparently there are alternate sources for said wrench:
https://www.amazon.com/Eklind-18607-...dp/B07FP3QXH4/
Haven't ever used Eklind tools, so I can't comment on their quality. FWIW, the company website indicates their tools are US made and that the company has been around for over 100 years.
There are also some other 3.5mm Allen wrenches listed on eBay, with varying prices.
Disclaimer: I have no commercial interest in Eklind tools, Amazon, or eBay (other than having made purchases from the latter two). Just found this and decided it was worth posting the info here.
Well, today apparently there are alternate sources for said wrench:
https://www.amazon.com/Eklind-18607-...dp/B07FP3QXH4/
Haven't ever used Eklind tools, so I can't comment on their quality. FWIW, the company website indicates their tools are US made and that the company has been around for over 100 years.
There are also some other 3.5mm Allen wrenches listed on eBay, with varying prices.
Disclaimer: I have no commercial interest in Eklind tools, Amazon, or eBay (other than having made purchases from the latter two). Just found this and decided it was worth posting the info here.
Last edited by Hondo6; 03-06-24 at 11:02 AM. Reason: Correct spelling error; clarification.
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Local hardware stores around here have them in the same area they keep all the various bins of other hardware (nuts and bolts section). 3.5 is just one of the many sizes easily available.
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#3
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What I'd read led me to believe the size (3.5mm Allen wrench) was quite uncommon, and it's certainly not one I've got in any metric Allen wrench set I own. Maybe it was just the "genuine Campagnolo" wrench that's difficult to source.
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Thanks for the updated info. Not being a Campagnolo user and thus never having used Deltas, my lack of experience with those apparently led me astray.
What I'd read led me to believe the size (3.5mm Allen wrench) was quite uncommon, and it's certainly not one I've got in any metric Allen wrench set I own. Maybe it was just the "genuine Campagnolo" wrench that's difficult to source.
What I'd read led me to believe the size (3.5mm Allen wrench) was quite uncommon, and it's certainly not one I've got in any metric Allen wrench set I own. Maybe it was just the "genuine Campagnolo" wrench that's difficult to source.
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metric-american.
3.5mm = 9/64(3.57mm) and is easier to find.fits the Deltas very well.
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When I got a set of the brakes aroun '90, second hand, I went to Sears and got a craftsman
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Be careful with that colored conversion chart, it has a mistake or two not to mention that you would strip a 1/8" socket with a 3mm hex key and the 1/8" key wouldn't even fit in a 3mm socket!
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Note, they aren't saying these are trouble-free, perfect fits, only that it'll go in and apply "some" torque before stripping. Seen that way, I'd call the chart somewhat useful.
They don't say to put a 1/8" key in a 3 mm socket, they say to put 1/8" into a 3.5 mm socket. Not great for torque, but it will fit in.
That's why there are two charts. The first one is for when you have fractional inch keys — what metric sockets do they fit.
The second is for when you have metric keys — what inch sockets do they fit.
With those assumptions, do you still find errors?
Note the only two-way compatibilities are 4 and 8 mm work with 5/32" and 5/16" respectively, in both directions (usually). They're close enough that the normal tolerance for socket-head bolts allows two-way compatibility. Everything else is somewhere between a kluge and a hail-mary. Note, when the fit is on the loose side, you can squeeze in some cut up bits of shim stock in a pinch.
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Can you show an example of an error?
Note, they aren't saying these are trouble-free, perfect fits, only that it'll go in and apply "some" torque before stripping. Seen that way, I'd call the chart somewhat useful.
They don't say to put a 1/8" key in a 3 mm socket, they say to put 1/8" into a 3.5 mm socket. Not great for torque, but it will fit in.
That's why there are two charts. The first one is for when you have fractional inch keys — what metric sockets do they fit.
The second is for when you have metric keys — what inch sockets do they fit.
With those assumptions, do you still find errors?
Note the only two-way compatibilities are 4 and 8 mm work with 5/32" and 5/16" respectively, in both directions (usually). They're close enough that the normal tolerance for socket-head bolts allows two-way compatibility. Everything else is somewhere between a kluge and a hail-mary. Note, when the fit is on the loose side, you can squeeze in some cut up bits of shim stock in a pinch.
Note, they aren't saying these are trouble-free, perfect fits, only that it'll go in and apply "some" torque before stripping. Seen that way, I'd call the chart somewhat useful.
They don't say to put a 1/8" key in a 3 mm socket, they say to put 1/8" into a 3.5 mm socket. Not great for torque, but it will fit in.
That's why there are two charts. The first one is for when you have fractional inch keys — what metric sockets do they fit.
The second is for when you have metric keys — what inch sockets do they fit.
With those assumptions, do you still find errors?
Note the only two-way compatibilities are 4 and 8 mm work with 5/32" and 5/16" respectively, in both directions (usually). They're close enough that the normal tolerance for socket-head bolts allows two-way compatibility. Everything else is somewhere between a kluge and a hail-mary. Note, when the fit is on the loose side, you can squeeze in some cut up bits of shim stock in a pinch.
Why even do it and risk causing a bigger problem??
Right up there with using an adjustable spanner ( nutfecker ) instead of the correct ROE spanner .
I dont know what it is like on your side of the world , but metric (and imperial) sets are readily available from most decent engineering supply stores etc here .
That said , I see where it might be useful in an absolute desperation situation .
Thanks for sharing your opinion and assumptions about the chart . ( no I am not being sarcastic)
Apologies to OP for the derail !
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Why even do it and risk causing a bigger problem??
Right up there with using an adjustable spanner ( nutfecker ) instead of the correct ROE spanner .
I dont know what it is like on your side of the world , but metric (and imperial) sets are readily available from most decent engineering supply stores etc here .
Please don't mis-characterize my position as "feel free to use inch keys in metric sockets and vice-versa, works great!" No one is saying that. I'm just saying the chart isn't useless, it has some limited use. The maker is not "seriously deluded" and there aren't "errors everywhere". As long as you take it in the spirit in which it is offered, a set of kluges for when you don't have the correct allen key, then I believe it is factually correct in every detail. Those are the closest matches you can make when you don't have the right keys. And a bit of shim stock and some scissors can usually make it fit actually rather well.
Last edited by bulgie; 03-07-24 at 04:07 AM.
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Well.....this is a different take on a Delta brake thread. Normally they just turn into fights over whether they work or not. This is a welcome new twist, LOL!
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chart update/
per the chart authors;
Pro Tips:
When you reference the hex key conversion chart above, do be aware that using a smaller size bit will increase your vulnerability for stripping the hardware. In some cases, you may want to try using a size larger than the one recommended in the chart to see if it fits. Also, we will caution you that smaller screw sizes are more prone to stripping. Thus, be careful when substituting sizes with precision hardware. Lastly, do remember that not every Allen wrench size has a perfect counterpart. That’s it when it comes to comparing metric & standard Allen wrench sizes. Good luck! https://handtoolessentials.com/blog/...-allen-wrench/
The Ultimate Guide to Allen Wrench Conversions
Sometimes—you just have to improvise when you’re on the job. So we decided to make that a little bit easier for you. If you ever need to lookup an Allen wrench conversion, keep our guide handy so you can reference it when out in the field. We’ve provided the best substitute for popular hex sizes from both Imperial & Metric measurement systems. But to ensure that you don’t damage your tools or your hardware, take a look at our instructions below for tips & recommendations.Imperial to Metric for Allen Keys
On the left-hand side, we have our SAE to metric conversion guide for hex keys that provides the best substitute SAE Allen wrench for each given metric size. As you’ll notice, there isn’t always a perfect substitute. For instance, Metric size 9 mm doesn’t have an imperial counterpart. In a case like this, you’re only option is to just upgrade to a separate metric hex key set. With more and more hardware being produced internationally, both SAE and metric hex key sets will have a place in your tool set.Metric to Imperial for Allen Keys
Moving over to the right-hand side, we’ve provided the metric to SAE guide for Allen wrench conversions. Similar to the metric hex keys, the SAE hex wrenches don’t always have a perfect substitute as seen for SAE size 3/16″. Thus, we recommend that those with only a metric Allen wrench set add a separate SAE hex key set to their stable.Substituting Uncommon Hex Sizes
Lastly, there’s one other added benefit to having both SAE & metric hex keys. In the United States, larger metric half sizes like 6.5 mm aren’t standard in most hex key sets. However, the 1/4″ SAE hex wrench will likely work in place of a 6.5 mm wrench. In scenarios like these, use the chart to estimate the correct alternative. You can test different sizes till you find the best match. We do recommend starting slowly to ensure that you don’t damage the hardware.Pro Tips:
- 3/8″ can be used as a substitute for hex size 9.5 mm as well as 10 mm
- 1/16″ works in place of hex size 1.5 mm, which isn’t included in most sets
When you reference the hex key conversion chart above, do be aware that using a smaller size bit will increase your vulnerability for stripping the hardware. In some cases, you may want to try using a size larger than the one recommended in the chart to see if it fits. Also, we will caution you that smaller screw sizes are more prone to stripping. Thus, be careful when substituting sizes with precision hardware. Lastly, do remember that not every Allen wrench size has a perfect counterpart. That’s it when it comes to comparing metric & standard Allen wrench sizes. Good luck! https://handtoolessentials.com/blog/...-allen-wrench/
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Can you show an example of an error?
Note, they aren't saying these are trouble-free, perfect fits, only that it'll go in and apply "some" torque before stripping. Seen that way, I'd call the chart somewhat useful.
They don't say to put a 1/8" key in a 3 mm socket, they say to put 1/8" into a 3.5 mm socket. Not great for torque, but it will fit in.
That's why there are two charts. The first one is for when you have fractional inch keys — what metric sockets do they fit.
The second is for when you have metric keys — what inch sockets do they fit.
With those assumptions, do you still find errors?
Note the only two-way compatibilities are 4 and 8 mm work with 5/32" and 5/16" respectively, in both directions (usually). They're close enough that the normal tolerance for socket-head bolts allows two-way compatibility. Everything else is somewhere between a kluge and a hail-mary. Note, when the fit is on the loose side, you can squeeze in some cut up bits of shim stock in a pinch.
Note, they aren't saying these are trouble-free, perfect fits, only that it'll go in and apply "some" torque before stripping. Seen that way, I'd call the chart somewhat useful.
They don't say to put a 1/8" key in a 3 mm socket, they say to put 1/8" into a 3.5 mm socket. Not great for torque, but it will fit in.
That's why there are two charts. The first one is for when you have fractional inch keys — what metric sockets do they fit.
The second is for when you have metric keys — what inch sockets do they fit.
With those assumptions, do you still find errors?
Note the only two-way compatibilities are 4 and 8 mm work with 5/32" and 5/16" respectively, in both directions (usually). They're close enough that the normal tolerance for socket-head bolts allows two-way compatibility. Everything else is somewhere between a kluge and a hail-mary. Note, when the fit is on the loose side, you can squeeze in some cut up bits of shim stock in a pinch.
For what it is, the chart's ok I guess, just that it seems like it perhaps validates optimistic assumptions of how much torque can really be applied, leading to the dreaded stripped-out socket heads.
My first glance at the chart showed asymmetrical interchangeability between 2mm, 5/64" and 3/32, while I have always been able to just use 5/64 and 2mm interchangeably.
I do find that as wrench sizes get larger, that new metric/SAE possibilities arise, I've used a 1-1/16" wrench on a 27mm motorcycle axle nut and 15/16" interchanges reversibly with 24mm.
Also I've used a 12-point, 1-1/2" socket on an octagonal 38mm Stronglight fixed bb cup to good effect!
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