hsjb

Here are my issues:

0) I'm currently riding a mt. bike
1) My budget is $1000-$1200
2) Right now, I ride 20-40 miles a week on the mt. bike. I assume I will be riding 30-50 or more miles a week, mostly in one shot on the weekend with an occasional after-work cycling workout (15 miles) and commuting to work (< 1 mile) three days a week.
3) I have some back problems but don't experience too many issues on my mt. bike right now. I am concerned about the additional stress I may put on it by having to use the shifters and brake levers at the front of the drop bar.
4) I have never used clipless pedals
5) I'm unsure about having a drop bar because of the aforementioned back issues.
6) The only shifters I have ever used were the lever types on a 10 speed I had as a kid and the RapidFires on my mt. bike.

I have narrowed down my search to the following bikes and would like some feedback on my issues and my choices please.

I am singling out the Trek 2000 (right now my first choice), the Bianchi Imola and the Lemond Alpe D' Huez as the subjects of my interest. Everyone I have talked to has pretty much recommended 105s as the gruppo I want to get.

So, here are the questions:
1) Do my choices make sense? Am I looking at the wrong class of bike? Wrong price range?
2) Some of these bikes mix 105/Tiagra components. For example, the Trek has a Tiagra Front Derailleur. Will I notice any difference because I don't have a 105 front derailleur?
3) The brakes on the Trek are no-names. I assume they are Trek branded. Are they decent? Should I upgrade 105 brakes?
4) How the heck do I try out a road bike that has clipless pedals if I don't have the shoes? I assume the LBS can substitute clipped/strapped pedals, but will I have a true road test?
5) The Trek (I didn't check the others) does not come with a front quick-release hub. I assume I can substitute one?

Any help would be appreciated!

lotek 

1) Yes your choices make sense. You might also look at
Felt, Fuji, Specialized as good values. Price range seems
correct for your needs (and not total entry level). If you're
looking at Bianchi check the Campione del Monde model
I believe its a mix of campy bits.
2) On a front derailleur I don't think you will notice a huge
difference.
3) Not sure as I don't know the specifics. If your talking the
brake calipers they should be ok.
4) LBS should be able to provide whatever pedal system you
are using. Yes strap/clip pedals will give a true road test,
remember thats what we used before clipless, and alot of
people still use them (myself included on old trek).
5) At this price range you should expect a quick release
front hub. yes you can substitute a quick release its an
easy switch.

That said the Lemond has a bit more relaxed geometry and
may be a good choice give back problems. You will get used
to the shift/brakes being on the drops. Most of your riding
will be with your hands either on top of the bars or on the
brake hoods, which will give you a more upright position.
Talk to your LBS about proper set up for your specific needs,
they can and should accomodate your specifics.

One last thing, once you cross over to the dark side you
can never go back

Good luck with your choices, let us know how you do.
and welcome to the forums. . .
Marty

Rich Clark

If you haven't actually ridden any of these bikes, I would try to back off a little on getting too obsessed with components yet. With road bikes, fit is all. More important than price, components, brand name, anything.

The bikes you're thinking about are all worthy contenders. lotek mentioned Fuji, Specialized, and Felt, to which I would add Jamis, Giant, and of course Cannondale as examples of other good bike-shop brands. Fuji and Jamis are often particularly good values.

Finding a shop that will spend the time it takes to do a thorough fitting and let you go on extensive test-rides is the real trick. Find that shop, and you'll probably be able to get a bike from them that will meet your needs.

I would be very suprised if that Trek doesn't have QR skewers. Tiagra hubs usually come with Shimano skewers which are all QR.

The shop will put whatever pedals you want on the bike for your test rides. Or should. Pedals are a personal choice anyway; many bikes don't include them at all. There's no law that says you ever have to use clipless pedals, and I think you can still fairly compare bikes without them.

The thing about your back: that's where fitting becomes critical. Depending on your personal proportions, you may well end up ordering a bike with the steerer tube uncut, so that the shop can cut it higher than normal, add a bunch of spacers, fit a stem with a lot of rise, and thus get the bars up to saddle height. (Sometimes this can be accomplished with just a stem swap; sometimes it takes a lot more -- it depends on your and the bike's gemoetries. That's why an experienced roadie shop is so important.)

Personally, I find my road bike helps me with the arthritis in my spine. Distributing my weight more evenly, and taking some of the downward stress off my back, is a relief. I can ride farther and longer on a road bike than I ever could on a hybrid. But that's just me.

RichC

SteveE

HSJB,

If you are serious about this, given your back issues, I would recommend that you talk to Terry Shaw in Santa Clara: Shaw's Lightweight Cycles about a fitting.

I think that he charges about $75 for a fitting but he is well worth it, IMHO. Terry sells Bianchi bikes and framesets from Serotta, Fuso, Mondonico, Torelli, and a few others.

SteveE.

P.S. Welcome to the BikForums from another Cupertino resident.

roadfix

hsjb.....

If you're having back problems, maybe you should stay away from aluminum frames, in general. The Bianchi and Lemond models you mentioned are steel, and therefore is a little more foregiving. Choice of frame material would be my overall decision maker especially with a chronic back or joint problem, IMO. Steel would be my first choice.........and of course getting fitted on a correct size frame and components come next.

MichaelW

Just because a bike has drop bars, it doesnt mean you have to ride in a deep, stretched out aerodynamic position. You can ride with drops in a more relaxed touring style. Use your current bike setup to decide how much you want to change your position.
The bar position is set by the top tube length, the stem length, and the length of steerer in the forks. Chose a frame with suitable TT (eg Lemond bikes generally have a long TT, so look for another make with a shorter one). To size a bike, you make sure you have enough standover clearance, then measure the critical TT length.
Stems are swapable, within reason. Std medium size bikes can work with 8-12cm of stem. (ie 10+- 2cm).
Fork steeres are often cut low, to give that wanabee racer look. You can insist on a longer steerer. Some style of bike (cyclo-cross and touring) generally come with longer steerers.
If you are commuting, you may want to fit fenders and a luggage rack. You need a frame with threaded eyelets and tyre clearance at the brakes. Competition race bikes dont have these, but fast/light touring bikes do. Check out the Bianchi San Remo and Volpe, Jamis Aurora/Nova for some ideas.
105 is a nice groupset for commuting. I use parts on my mongrel commuter, esp the 105 long-drop brakes, which give me room for 32mm tyre + fenders.

hsjb

Thanks for the info everyone.

LSR

Maybe consider boosting your budget (if possible) and check out colorado cyclist. They have the Litespeed Arenburg (?sp) on closeout for $1999 I believe with full Ultegra. Ti is very comfortable. Just a thought.

1oldRoadie

In other words, from every roadie in the forum to You.....WELCOME TO THE ADDICTION!!!!

T.

hsjb

$1999 is definitely out of my budget. I'm trying to buy a house too! (Yeah, like an extra $800-1000 will help in Northern California!)

RonH

Welcome to BikeForums.

I agree with the others and would add, since you have back problems and have some concerns about them, finding the right bike shop is probably just as important as finding the right bike and bike fit.

Tell the owner/manager about your back problems, budget, etc. and let him/her offer some suggestions about the "best" bike and setup for you.

If you don't feel comfortable (no pun intended ) with that shop, go elsewhere.

multisport4life

Just thought I'd tack on a quick note that nobody else has mentioned...

For longer rides, it is my understanding that road bikes provide a better position for your back than mtb or upright bikes. When you are sitting straight up from the saddle, all the road vibration and bumps are transmitted directly up your spine because your weight is all on the saddle. With your hands on the hoods, your weight should be more evenly distributed between your upper and lower body, and this should relieve stress to your back from the road. If you have a medical problem with your back that prevents you from comfortably sitting in that position then maybe this info will not do you any good. Otherwise, it could be possible that the upright position on your mtb could be what is causing your discomfort.