In Between Sizes - Big Difference?
06-09-20, 11:11 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
In Between Sizes - Big Difference?
Hey everyone, I just received my Canyon Pathlite hybrid and am not sure if it's too big or not. I feel a little stretched out but it just might be because I haven't ridden in a while and don't know what it should feel like. The Canyon measurement tool on the site says I'm a small but the rep on the phone suggested I get a medium so I got a medium. I'm 5'10" with a 31" inseam. If I put in one inch taller and one higher for the inseam, it says medium so I figure I'm right on the border.
Could you guys tell me if there would be a big difference in feel based on the geometry of a small and a medium? I've compared the numbers and a lot of the measurements are the same or less than 1" difference but I don't know what that translates to in body position. The standover height is .87" higher in the medium. I can stand over the top tube flat footed but the boys are touching it. How important is that?
Should I get a small or is a medium fine? TIA
geometry
Could you guys tell me if there would be a big difference in feel based on the geometry of a small and a medium? I've compared the numbers and a lot of the measurements are the same or less than 1" difference but I don't know what that translates to in body position. The standover height is .87" higher in the medium. I can stand over the top tube flat footed but the boys are touching it. How important is that?
Should I get a small or is a medium fine? TIA
geometry
06-10-20, 04:58 AM
#2
Industry guy
Size is determined by your body build.
BTW - 1 " is a significant amount of change in bicycle parlance.
That is, do you have a long torso or shorter torso and longer legs? Long arms?
How fit are you and how are you going to be riding this bicycle - as a recreational rider on groomed trail or at a higher, performance orientation?
The top tube length related to torso length, and steering geometry is related to stem length.
A long top tube with a short stem handles differently that a shorter top tube and longer stem.
Fit is a factor of all of this, including crank arm length.
When I fit, feet are first, saddle height/position is next and then stem length.
They all work together for proper fit.
As I like to say - the top tube always wins!
rusty
BTW - 1 " is a significant amount of change in bicycle parlance.
That is, do you have a long torso or shorter torso and longer legs? Long arms?
How fit are you and how are you going to be riding this bicycle - as a recreational rider on groomed trail or at a higher, performance orientation?
The top tube length related to torso length, and steering geometry is related to stem length.
A long top tube with a short stem handles differently that a shorter top tube and longer stem.
Fit is a factor of all of this, including crank arm length.
When I fit, feet are first, saddle height/position is next and then stem length.
They all work together for proper fit.
As I like to say - the top tube always wins!
rusty
06-10-20, 09:54 AM
#3
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Probably like purchasing speakers for your stereo. If you never listen to a different pair, you will think your pair the perfect sound.
Everything is just a guess until you ride them for more than around the parking lot. I've ridden bikes that were 6 to 8 cm bigger than what any sane shop owner would have sold me. I was comfortable on all of them. And I rode them for 100 mile rides and for thousands of miles.
So don't get too concerned about being in the overlap if you aren't going to test ride them both.
Everything is just a guess until you ride them for more than around the parking lot. I've ridden bikes that were 6 to 8 cm bigger than what any sane shop owner would have sold me. I was comfortable on all of them. And I rode them for 100 mile rides and for thousands of miles.
So don't get too concerned about being in the overlap if you aren't going to test ride them both.
06-10-20, 10:39 AM
#4
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Without knowing any of your dimensions other than height, ("inseam" could be anything), you sound like a medium. If you haven't been riding, your opinion of what feels right may not be worth anything. You want to know what feels right after a couple thousand miles, and you can't know that now. If you really want to know more, go to https://www.competitivecyclist.com/S...ulatorBike.jsp
Take your measurements as instructed and enter them into the calculator. Go more by top tube length than anything.
Take your measurements as instructed and enter them into the calculator. Go more by top tube length than anything.
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06-10-20, 12:57 PM
#5
Member
Thread Starter
Size is determined by your body build.
BTW - 1 " is a significant amount of change in bicycle parlance. -Yikes, I was afraid of that.
That is, do you have a long torso or shorter torso and longer legs? Long arms? -I would say 60/40 slightly longer torso and average length arms. I wear 32/32 pants and a 34-35 sleeve dress shirt is a hair long on me (32-33 is a hair short).
How fit are you and how are you going to be riding this bicycle - as a recreational rider on groomed trail or at a higher, performance orientation? -I'm fairly fit and athletic although I had shoulder surgery last November. I rode 8.5 miles at an avg speed of 9.3 mph yesterday and wasn't really tired. I would say I'll be riding it at a recreational+ rider level. I won't be doing any real serious mt bike trails.
The top tube length related to torso length, and steering geometry is related to stem length.
A long top tube with a short stem handles differently that a shorter top tube and longer stem.
Fit is a factor of all of this, including crank arm length.
When I fit, feet are first, saddle height/position is next and then stem length.
They all work together for proper fit. -How do you know when the fit is proper? Are there any tell-tail signs that the fit is improper?
As I like to say - the top tube always wins!
rusty
BTW - 1 " is a significant amount of change in bicycle parlance. -Yikes, I was afraid of that.
That is, do you have a long torso or shorter torso and longer legs? Long arms? -I would say 60/40 slightly longer torso and average length arms. I wear 32/32 pants and a 34-35 sleeve dress shirt is a hair long on me (32-33 is a hair short).
How fit are you and how are you going to be riding this bicycle - as a recreational rider on groomed trail or at a higher, performance orientation? -I'm fairly fit and athletic although I had shoulder surgery last November. I rode 8.5 miles at an avg speed of 9.3 mph yesterday and wasn't really tired. I would say I'll be riding it at a recreational+ rider level. I won't be doing any real serious mt bike trails.
The top tube length related to torso length, and steering geometry is related to stem length.
A long top tube with a short stem handles differently that a shorter top tube and longer stem.
Fit is a factor of all of this, including crank arm length.
When I fit, feet are first, saddle height/position is next and then stem length.
They all work together for proper fit. -How do you know when the fit is proper? Are there any tell-tail signs that the fit is improper?
As I like to say - the top tube always wins!
rusty
Probably like purchasing speakers for your stereo. If you never listen to a different pair, you will think your pair the perfect sound.
Everything is just a guess until you ride them for more than around the parking lot. I've ridden bikes that were 6 to 8 cm bigger than what any sane shop owner would have sold me. I was comfortable on all of them. And I rode them for 100 mile rides and for thousands of miles.
So don't get too concerned about being in the overlap if you aren't going to test ride them both.
Everything is just a guess until you ride them for more than around the parking lot. I've ridden bikes that were 6 to 8 cm bigger than what any sane shop owner would have sold me. I was comfortable on all of them. And I rode them for 100 mile rides and for thousands of miles.
So don't get too concerned about being in the overlap if you aren't going to test ride them both.
Without knowing any of your dimensions other than height, ("inseam" could be anything), you sound like a medium. If you haven't been riding, your opinion of what feels right may not be worth anything. You want to know what feels right after a couple thousand miles, and you can't know that now. If you really want to know more, go to https://www.competitivecyclist.com/S...ulatorBike.jsp
Take your measurements as instructed and enter them into the calculator. Go more by top tube length than anything.
Take your measurements as instructed and enter them into the calculator. Go more by top tube length than anything.
I used the calculator and it gives me three options: the XC fit, the all mountain fit, the gravity fit. I don't know what the difference are but for a couple of them I'm within the top tube spec with the medium bike and one is in the small range.
06-10-20, 01:09 PM
#6
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If you get a size that is within what the manufacturer sizing guide show, whether the bigger or smaller of the overlap size, then there are adjustments that can be made to deal with issues of too much pressure on wrists and many other pains, soreness and numbness people gripe about.
A lot can be done by just changing the fore/aft, tilt and height of the seat. Some the height of the bars. And even a change of the stem length in some cases which is the only one that will cost a few more bucks.
A lot can be done by just changing the fore/aft, tilt and height of the seat. Some the height of the bars. And even a change of the stem length in some cases which is the only one that will cost a few more bucks.
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06-10-20, 03:20 PM
#7
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^ And you should be able to get the shop to fit the bike to you, with the correct stem and all adjustments, no extra charge. Ask.
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06-11-20, 08:37 PM
#8
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Thread Starter
If you get a size that is within what the manufacturer sizing guide show, whether the bigger or smaller of the overlap size, then there are adjustments that can be made to deal with issues of too much pressure on wrists and many other pains, soreness and numbness people gripe about.
A lot can be done by just changing the fore/aft, tilt and height of the seat. Some the height of the bars. And even a change of the stem length in some cases which is the only one that will cost a few more bucks.
A lot can be done by just changing the fore/aft, tilt and height of the seat. Some the height of the bars. And even a change of the stem length in some cases which is the only one that will cost a few more bucks.
This bike is online only and the stem/bars is one piece.
06-12-20, 09:53 AM
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Are you just starting to ride or have been away from riding for a fair amount of time?
I think age even has a little to do with it for some. 10 or so years ago when I switched from just being a leisurely ride around the neighborhood a few times a month to riding 4 to 6 days or more per week for fitness, my butt was sore for quite a while. Something on the order of weeks for the major annoyance.
I was riding the same bike that was comfortable to me back when I was a teenager, so I knew it wasn't the bike. It was my butt being over 50 and out of riding condition. I rode anyway. I played the Swap Saddle Game which seemed to help, but finally wound up with a saddle that wasn't too different than the one that was on it when I started the saddle swap game.
Even today, if I lay off riding the bike for a couple weeks and then start doing long rides again. I'll get a little annoying muscle and joint pain around my sit bones and maybe my tail bone, but it doesn't last but a few days at the most now. And it's not anything that I'd even complain about to others.
Most of the bikes sold today have decent seats for their intended use. Rarely, there are people that have pelvis that put their sit bones outside the norms. Some bike shops can help you figure it out or just google for "sit bones bicycle seat sizing".
If you are new to cycling and you only do a ride every week or so, you'll probably constantly be plagued with butt soreness.
But remember, this is IMO. And based solely on my perception of things that may or may not have been a factor for me. Along with a little reading that I may or may not have understood fully.
I think age even has a little to do with it for some. 10 or so years ago when I switched from just being a leisurely ride around the neighborhood a few times a month to riding 4 to 6 days or more per week for fitness, my butt was sore for quite a while. Something on the order of weeks for the major annoyance.
I was riding the same bike that was comfortable to me back when I was a teenager, so I knew it wasn't the bike. It was my butt being over 50 and out of riding condition. I rode anyway. I played the Swap Saddle Game which seemed to help, but finally wound up with a saddle that wasn't too different than the one that was on it when I started the saddle swap game.
Even today, if I lay off riding the bike for a couple weeks and then start doing long rides again. I'll get a little annoying muscle and joint pain around my sit bones and maybe my tail bone, but it doesn't last but a few days at the most now. And it's not anything that I'd even complain about to others.
Most of the bikes sold today have decent seats for their intended use. Rarely, there are people that have pelvis that put their sit bones outside the norms. Some bike shops can help you figure it out or just google for "sit bones bicycle seat sizing".
If you are new to cycling and you only do a ride every week or so, you'll probably constantly be plagued with butt soreness.
But remember, this is IMO. And based solely on my perception of things that may or may not have been a factor for me. Along with a little reading that I may or may not have understood fully.
Last edited by Iride01; 06-12-20 at 09:58 AM.
06-12-20, 10:48 AM
#10
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1) Your sore butt is a sign of a person who hasn't been riding. This is the most likely. The cure is to ride every day if you can, but only for 30 minutes. 2 weeks of that will pretty much take care of it. Unless:
2) The saddle is too soft or too hard or too narrow. You want a saddle that's not hard as a board, but yet not squishy. You should be able to depress your thumb into the padding, but not have it sink very far. If your sit bones are on or near the edge of the saddle, it's too narrow. Bike shops can measure your butt and recommend a proper width saddle. However, #1 is more common.
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Results matter
06-12-20, 04:07 PM
#11
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Thread Starter
Are you just starting to ride or have been away from riding for a fair amount of time?
I think age even has a little to do with it for some. 10 or so years ago when I switched from just being a leisurely ride around the neighborhood a few times a month to riding 4 to 6 days or more per week for fitness, my butt was sore for quite a while. Something on the order of weeks for the major annoyance.
I was riding the same bike that was comfortable to me back when I was a teenager, so I knew it wasn't the bike. It was my butt being over 50 and out of riding condition. I rode anyway. I played the Swap Saddle Game which seemed to help, but finally wound up with a saddle that wasn't too different than the one that was on it when I started the saddle swap game.
Even today, if I lay off riding the bike for a couple weeks and then start doing long rides again. I'll get a little annoying muscle and joint pain around my sit bones and maybe my tail bone, but it doesn't last but a few days at the most now. And it's not anything that I'd even complain about to others.
Most of the bikes sold today have decent seats for their intended use. Rarely, there are people that have pelvis that put their sit bones outside the norms. Some bike shops can help you figure it out or just google for "sit bones bicycle seat sizing".
If you are new to cycling and you only do a ride every week or so, you'll probably constantly be plagued with butt soreness.
But remember, this is IMO. And based solely on my perception of things that may or may not have been a factor for me. Along with a little reading that I may or may not have understood fully.
I think age even has a little to do with it for some. 10 or so years ago when I switched from just being a leisurely ride around the neighborhood a few times a month to riding 4 to 6 days or more per week for fitness, my butt was sore for quite a while. Something on the order of weeks for the major annoyance.
I was riding the same bike that was comfortable to me back when I was a teenager, so I knew it wasn't the bike. It was my butt being over 50 and out of riding condition. I rode anyway. I played the Swap Saddle Game which seemed to help, but finally wound up with a saddle that wasn't too different than the one that was on it when I started the saddle swap game.
Even today, if I lay off riding the bike for a couple weeks and then start doing long rides again. I'll get a little annoying muscle and joint pain around my sit bones and maybe my tail bone, but it doesn't last but a few days at the most now. And it's not anything that I'd even complain about to others.
Most of the bikes sold today have decent seats for their intended use. Rarely, there are people that have pelvis that put their sit bones outside the norms. Some bike shops can help you figure it out or just google for "sit bones bicycle seat sizing".
If you are new to cycling and you only do a ride every week or so, you'll probably constantly be plagued with butt soreness.
But remember, this is IMO. And based solely on my perception of things that may or may not have been a factor for me. Along with a little reading that I may or may not have understood fully.
Those adjustments actually make a lot of difference, but you haven't ridden enough to see what they do. There are 2 possibilities w/r to your butt:
1) Your sore butt is a sign of a person who hasn't been riding. This is the most likely. The cure is to ride every day if you can, but only for 30 minutes. 2 weeks of that will pretty much take care of it. Unless:
2) The saddle is too soft or too hard or too narrow. You want a saddle that's not hard as a board, but yet not squishy. You should be able to depress your thumb into the padding, but not have it sink very far. If your sit bones are on or near the edge of the saddle, it's too narrow. Bike shops can measure your butt and recommend a proper width saddle. However, #1 is more common.
1) Your sore butt is a sign of a person who hasn't been riding. This is the most likely. The cure is to ride every day if you can, but only for 30 minutes. 2 weeks of that will pretty much take care of it. Unless:
2) The saddle is too soft or too hard or too narrow. You want a saddle that's not hard as a board, but yet not squishy. You should be able to depress your thumb into the padding, but not have it sink very far. If your sit bones are on or near the edge of the saddle, it's too narrow. Bike shops can measure your butt and recommend a proper width saddle. However, #1 is more common.
06-22-20, 03:10 PM
#12
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I am in market for the exact same bike and thinking about getting the M size even Canyon sizing tells me to get S. The top tube difference between S and M is only 8 millimetres (482 vs 490). Where did you buy yours? They are out of stock online and LBS do not have them.
Thanks
Thanks
08-23-20, 07:36 AM
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I am approximately the same size as you and am worried that the Canyon site says to get a Small. Any more feedback if the medium is working out for you? Thanks.
08-24-20, 07:22 AM
#14
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if you're 5'10" and a medium feels too large, that is a very poorly designed bike.
please post a photo of the bike. I would like to know if there's something weird going on with the setup. some people ride a bike with a weird seat angle or they have the handlebar unintentionally set up in a weird position. a trained eye could spot that quickly.
please post a photo of the bike. I would like to know if there's something weird going on with the setup. some people ride a bike with a weird seat angle or they have the handlebar unintentionally set up in a weird position. a trained eye could spot that quickly.
08-30-20, 07:51 PM
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I got my Pathlite 6.0 in M from Canyon outlet site. The bike feels good and I think I made good decision of not going for S (Canyon sizer recommendation). I can always get shorter stem if I feel streched.
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