Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Shimano STX Shifter Problem

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Shimano STX Shifter Problem

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-26-20, 12:31 PM
  #1  
WT160
Full Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 210
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 67 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 49 Times in 31 Posts
Shimano STX Shifter Problem

I was having some ring gear shifting problems on my Trek 7000, so I tried to take the bottom cover off of the Shimano STX shifter to see if I could lubricate it. The bottom cover has a small phillips screw and allen bolt. The allen bolt was a little stiff, but never came off completely. I can't get to tighten now, either. The whole mechanism is now loose. I seem to be missing something here. Any pointers?
WT160 is offline  
Old 10-26-20, 01:02 PM
  #2  
Amt0571
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Catalonia
Posts: 956

Bikes: Canyon Grand Canyon AL SL 8.0, Triban RC520 Gravel Ltd, Btwin Ultra 520 AF GF, Triban Road 7, Benotto 850

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 402 Post(s)
Liked 215 Times in 137 Posts
Originally Posted by WT160
I was having some ring gear shifting problems on my Trek 7000, so I tried to take the bottom cover off of the Shimano STX shifter to see if I could lubricate it. The bottom cover has a small phillips screw and allen bolt. The allen bolt was a little stiff, but never came off completely. I can't get to tighten now, either. The whole mechanism is now loose. I seem to be missing something here. Any pointers?
If you can't tighten or loosen it, you probably have stripped the threads. Do you have pictures? They would make it easier to help you.
Amt0571 is offline  
Old 10-26-20, 01:07 PM
  #3  
WT160
Full Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 210
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 67 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 49 Times in 31 Posts
I thought I might have stripped it, but I went back and forth, and I thought it was okay.
WT160 is offline  
Old 10-26-20, 01:19 PM
  #4  
dsbrantjr
Senior Member
 
dsbrantjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Roswell, GA
Posts: 8,319

Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta

Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1438 Post(s)
Liked 1,092 Times in 723 Posts
It sounds like the bolt or its mating threads may have galled or otherwise jammed. I would suggest trying to get some penetrating oil (Kroil or PB Blaster) in there and get the bolt turning again so you can tighten it up again.
dsbrantjr is offline  
Old 10-26-20, 01:59 PM
  #5  
70sSanO
Senior Member
 
70sSanO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 5,806

Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1944 Post(s)
Liked 2,164 Times in 1,323 Posts
Originally Posted by dsbrantjr
It sounds like the bolt or its mating threads may have galled or otherwise jammed. I would suggest trying to get some penetrating oil (Kroil or PB Blaster) in there and get the bolt turning again so you can tighten it up again.
Try this. But to give you an idea of what you are looking at, here are some old LX shifters. The difference is that yours attach to the brake level from the bottom (allen bolt) and mine attach from the top (allen bolt). You don't have to take the cover off, although it is nice, to spray WD-40 in there and then lube with Tri-Flow. I have not had great success if the shifter is worn. If it is just dirty/gummy, it will help. The issue you will have if it doesn't work is trying to replace just the shifter.

John

70sSanO is offline  
Old 10-26-20, 02:06 PM
  #6  
WT160
Full Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 210
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 67 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 49 Times in 31 Posts
I sprayed it. The bolts just spins, even when I pry and twist at the same time. I'm not sure how to get the top from the other side off.

I found some old stock replacements, but should I upgrade to something like Deore XT ST-M760 instead?
WT160 is offline  
Old 10-26-20, 02:26 PM
  #7  
KCT1986
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 862
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 345 Post(s)
Liked 320 Times in 234 Posts
Assuming front (left unit), is the shifter set to smallest chainring position? The interface between the shifter, brake lever bracket and the window gear indicator unit on some of these shifter must align to mesh together. This is in the small ring position (front) and small cog (rear).

Another possibility is that a part between the shifter unit and the indicator slipped out of place and no longer aligning properly.
KCT1986 is offline  
Old 10-26-20, 02:31 PM
  #8  
Andrew R Stewart 
Senior Member
 
Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,084

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4205 Post(s)
Liked 3,864 Times in 2,312 Posts
IIRC this version of shifters have the center bolt threading into a Tee nut. The flange of that nut can slip out of it's fitting and thus spin, like a stripped bolt might. The bugger is that these can also have some sort of thread locker on the bolt and help make the loosening more challenging, especially if the nut is no longer held in place. One trick it to pull on the bolt while loosening it. Not easy to do with just the 4mm hex wrench but does work. This helps to seat the Tee nut and keep it from freely spinning. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
Andrew R Stewart is offline  
Likes For Andrew R Stewart:
Old 10-26-20, 02:32 PM
  #9  
WT160
Full Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 210
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 67 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 49 Times in 31 Posts
Originally Posted by KCT1986
Assuming front (left unit), is the shifter set to smallest chainring position? The interface between the shifter, brake lever bracket and the window gear indicator unit on some of these shifter must align to mesh together. This is in the small ring position (front) and small cog (rear).

Another possibility is that a part between the shifter unit and the indicator slipped out of place and no longer aligning properly.
Yes, it's all askew, but I can't get the cover off to try and get all back together.
WT160 is offline  
Old 10-26-20, 02:34 PM
  #10  
WT160
Full Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 210
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 67 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 49 Times in 31 Posts
Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart
IIRC this version of shifters have the center bolt threading into a Tee nut. The flange of that nut can slip out of it's fitting and thus spin, like a stripped bolt might. The bugger is that these can also have some sort of thread locker on the bolt and help make the loosening more challenging, especially if the nut is no longer held in place. One trick it to pull on the bolt while loosening it. Not easy to do with just the 4mm hex wrench but does work. This helps to seat the Tee nut and keep it from freely spinning. Andy
Ha! That makes sense. I have tried to pull on the bolt while turning, to no avail.
WT160 is offline  
Old 10-26-20, 02:49 PM
  #11  
KCT1986
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 862
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 345 Post(s)
Liked 320 Times in 234 Posts
Here is the exploded view from Shimano.

Not sure if the attachment will load, so if not, try the Shimano web site directly. It is under Manual and Technical Documents.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
SI-68E0B-000-00-ENG_DUT.pdf (115.6 KB, 8 views)
KCT1986 is offline  
Old 10-26-20, 02:57 PM
  #12  
70sSanO
Senior Member
 
70sSanO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 5,806

Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1944 Post(s)
Liked 2,164 Times in 1,323 Posts
Originally Posted by KCT1986
Here is the exploded view from Shimano.

Not sure if the attachment will load, so if not, try the Shimano web site directly. It is under Manual and Technical Documents.
So, can you remove the gear indicator to get access to the tee-plate?

John
70sSanO is offline  
Old 10-26-20, 03:03 PM
  #13  
WT160
Full Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 210
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 67 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 49 Times in 31 Posts
Originally Posted by 70sSanO
So, can you remove the gear indicator to get access to the tee-plate?

John
I'll try.
WT160 is offline  
Old 10-26-20, 03:13 PM
  #14  
WT160
Full Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 210
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 67 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 49 Times in 31 Posts
I got it. I was able to grip the top nut with a needle nose pliers. The top nut spun in the housing, as the bolt was rusted. Now I need to put it all back together.
WT160 is offline  
Old 10-26-20, 03:16 PM
  #15  
70sSanO
Senior Member
 
70sSanO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 5,806

Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1944 Post(s)
Liked 2,164 Times in 1,323 Posts
Originally Posted by WT160
I'll try.
Use a good screwdriver that fits correctly, spray it with WD40 or penetrating oil, and take you time so you don't mess up that bolt (threads or head).

John
70sSanO is offline  
Old 10-26-20, 04:47 PM
  #16  
WT160
Full Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 210
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 67 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 49 Times in 31 Posts
I got it together finally. Thanks for all the help.
It's too bad that I had to go through with all of that, but it happens. I see now that I could have sprayed lubricant through the side.
Years earlier that T nut wouldn't have spun in its housing, but the bolt and nut were rusted and the aluminum housing couldn't take the torque necessary to free the bolt.
WT160 is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.