joewein

For moderate headwind, my recommendation would be not to watch your speed readout, but your heart rate or your power meter readout. Riding against the wind is a bit like riding uphill, except you have less to show for the effort. Your effort needs to remain in a sustainable range or you won't finish the ride.

You simply can't win against a 32 km/h wind, unless it's very temporary (exposed mountain pass). That's too fierce. Just maintaining 10 km/h ground speed into it means fighting as much air resistance as going at 42 km/h (26 mph). If it was me, I'd either go ride somewhere else or ride on a different day.

tshelver

I did my first century last week, self supported, on a Trice (ICE) recumbent trike. It took me 8:15 hours, 85 to 93 degree heat (103 'RealFeel') of which 7 hours was riding time.
I stopped for a light roadside veg stew and rice lunch about 30 miles into the ride, as I only left at 9:30.

I carried 2.5 liters of water, 2 dosed with Nunn electrolyte, 2 boiled eggs and 2 bananas. Trike was kitted with rack, rear mudguard, 55 liter saddlebags, lights and a full set of spares and tools, as road conditions here can be a bit rough.

I popped a liter of water by the time I left, standard practice for me when riding in the heat.

I've been off the bike for over 2 years until June, as I've been moving around a lot with stuff in storage or in transit, and have never gone further than 50 miles in my life before, so I started out just doing local rides. For the last few months I've been doing a hilly ride of 30 to 45 miles every few weeks, and about a quarter of the distance being steady to steep climbing.
in between I started with 60 km longer rides (got badly affected in the heat at first) and then built up to 80 and 100k, and finally 150km distances.

Especially in the heat, I found learning how my body needed hydration and food was really important. Probably the biggest lesson was hydrating as much as possible before I leave on a ride, and then keeping up with it during the ride. The other one was not to push too hard in the beginning or on hills.

In the end, the century was easier than the first 100k ride I did a month earlier, and I did it in less time than the 150km ride 10 days before, despite the route being the same apart from a long, steep climb at the turn around point.
The other really weird part of that faster time was that I bent the derailleur hanger 3 km into the ride hitting a hidden rock while doing a water crossing. I lost the 2 smallest cassette cogs, ending up with the lower 21 speeds out of the 27 original.
That must have dropped me from a 107 gi on top to below 90 (20" wheel).
After I got the derailleur to at least stop jumping cogs and shift OK in the remaining gears, I decided to carry on and just take it easy, and see how far I got.
It seems that was the best strategy, as I stopped for photos, food, snacks and drink stops, and even ate a 'banana Q' (cooking banana fried and dipped in melted sugar).
Unlike the other 100k and longer rides, I was faster on the way home than going out...

Unlike others, I much prefer riding on my own, looking at the sights, talking to people at stops, stopping for food, drinks and photos when I feel like it, and not being stressed to keep up when I'm slow or holding back when I'm fast. Especially as a recumbent trike (tadpole) has very different speeds on climbs and descents than a normal road bike. With all the tools, spares, bags, rack, lights and stuff I ride with here, the trike is over 45lb before I add water and food.

Null66

Haven't ridden a brevet yet, but really like long for me self supported rides.

If you have spare water, squirt through helmet vents...
With my camelback I'll drain some water on my bike shorts mid thigh.
Amazing how cooling this is on a hot day.
I use Keen sandals so I don't worry about water getting in my shoes, but if I wore shoes, then I would.

Jim Kukula

That doesn't sound quite right. I think power goes like s * (s + h)^2, where s is speed and h is headwind. So riding 10 kph into a 32 kph headwind is like riding 26 kph in still air.

Yeah, you're right about the force you're pushing against. But assuming one has gears on the bike, one can shift to a lower gear to make the torque the same. With adequate gearing, power is really all that matters.

joewein

Jim,

you're absolute correct as power = work / time and work = force * distance. Force increases with the square of total air speed (ground speed plus headwind speed if you're heading directly into the wind). Therefore the equivalent still air speed in my example is the 3rd root of ((42 kph)^2 * 10 kph) which is ~26 kph, as you say.

I stand corrected and educated!

Jim Kukula

A 20 mph headwind really is brutal! Another way of looking at the numbers: my usual level speed in still air is around 12 mph. Into a 20 mph headwind, the same power output would have me going about 3.2 mph! I have plenty low gears but that is actually running off my low end. My lowest gear at my steady cadence is about 4.7 mph. At 3.2 mph my legs are slowing down quite a bit - not quite at the death struggle stage but getting there!

DaveLeeNC

Definitely in the FWIW category.

Back in the late 70's I ran my first marathon and (surprisingly) qualified for the Boston Marathon. A group of four of us decided to make the trip the next spring. This was the year that Rosie Ruiz "won" the ladies race (she didn't pass me, BTW).

Anyway I could never learn to drink water while running (not a problem on a bike for me, BTW). A buddy (better than me) talked me into running with him and, unfortunately it was 'perfect' weather (low 80's). Of course all my training was cold weather stuff and I had no heat training whatsoever in April.

I absolutely collapsed the last 5 miles and assumed that it was just a somewhat too fast pace. While I finished with a sub 7:00 min/mile pace, my pace the last half dozen miles was more like 9:00.

Then I returned the next fall to the Nov. marathon in Louisville, Ky. Again it was the same 'perfect' weather and now I was in very good condition. But the result was the same - complete collapse the last 5'ish miles. But this time for no particular reason I had weighed myself before the race. I could easily reconstruct all the fluids that I had consumed after the race (I just couldn't drink when running). Doing the math I calculated that I had lost 13 pounds of water during this race.

Trust me here - you don't want to do this. Twice I lost around 13 pounds in 3 hours and was never uncomfortably hot. But around 2.5 hours in - things were REALLY tough. However I never felt either hot or thirsty.

dave

Willbird

Pardon if this is an ignorant question, but how about V8 juice for electrolytes ?? The stuff is loaded with sodium and potassium.

Bill

chasm54

Don't see why not, if you can stomach it while riding. Personally I think people overthink the whole electrolyte issue. There's plenty of electrolytes in ordinary food, and as an intensive care doctor once said to me, "most of my patients die with their electrolytes in perfect balance".

Willbird

I have not tried it wile riding, I drink 2 cans a day of the "low sodium", I refer to it as "lower sodium" though because it still has quite a bit, it has never caused me an issue at work in midwest heat and humidity.

Bill

Machka 

You might go with normal sodium V8 during long rides.

Willbird

I'm thinking of maybe doing a self supported metric century first, just ride loops around home base here and make my rest stops back here every hour or so, so that is something I could stash in the fridge. I got on to the "lower sodium stuff" when our health and wellness program had a "veggie challenge"......a can of V8 counted as 2 servings :-).

The Lower sodium for an 11oz is 200mg sodium and 1180mg Potassium,15mg carb, 3g protien....not sure how rapidly/readily avail all of that is.

The higher sodium again for 11oz is 920mg sodium and 640mg potassium, 14 carb, 2 protien.

I have been riding about 90 minutes now and want to start to phase in something other than straight water so I know it will work out if I decide to push for my Metric :-). Base right now is 20 miles so I am going to keep working up, and finding a good local "loop" or "loops" that will work well for 1 hour rest stops.

Bill

Jawbone

This is so freakin' awesome!

woodcraft

Get out of the saddle regularly, for blood circulation.

Just 10 or 15 pedal strokes every 10 or 15 minutes helps.

andy4077

What a fantastic idea

BigC_82

After reading this whole thread I noticed you failed to mention one key tip about sunscreen as being on bike for that long. You need stop at some point to reapply.

HkC01

Just lurking this forum was invaluable when I was working toward my first century. Thanks again everyone.

Training for a new rider - Long slow distance had great immediate benefits for me. I got serious about a century after my first 50mi ride and did my first century 8 weeks later. Doing 2 or 3 weekly steady and easy endurance rides of 3hrs both was good for fitness and learning about what HR is telling you. Use HR to gauge effort on the century ride.

Distance - The 1.5x rule about going half as far as your previous distance works, once you've done a metric or a little further, plan to do the century. If just doing it on your own don't lock in "a day" for the event, take advantage of the fact that you just want to get it done at some point in the season (basically, try not to think about it ahead of time.)

Sunscreen - I applied sunscreen every couple hours to my arms and thighs. Ended up with a burnt back, complete with outline of the jersey tag. Wear a protective base layer that has some sun protection, and has the added bonus of making you more visible. (this may cause you to tan in "gloves" while your arms are protected... haven't figured that one out yet)

Nutrition - whatever works for you, but it's obviously critical for this duration, less is more IMO so guarantee a good base with manufactured stuff (gels and powders are efficient) and snack along the way - salted almonds and apricots are often mentioned and work. Enjoy the stuff sold in the checkout aisle, just don't overeat.

The route - Have a "big" checkpoint, e.g. know a few places you can stop for food/water at 55-75 miles (this is the point of no return area if following the distance rule of 1.5x.) Restock and know that you're only 25-45 from finishing. Know the end of your route well if possible too - the last 20mi are a bit mental, but if it's well known to you it'll be just like starting a new ride (just already really tired!) If it's a segment you've done countless times that's a get out of jail free against any doubt you won't finish.

Data - Get an app on your phone, record the ride, a line on a map is the quickest way to show friends what you're talking about, and a great reminder that you did it while you're waiting in line for whatever.

Repeat - After the first is done think about another - your fitness is great, and the unknown century is now known, so keep up some training and try to get another one in within the next 4/8 weeks. Use the days you already had planned out in case the first try didn't work.

Oatmeal cream pies - I can't find the thread now, but certainly one of the most enjoyable century stories on BF. Search for it.

Kotts

Last summer I did a number of centuries (metric and "English"), topping with a 430-mile wide across South Dakota in August. I discovered "cool sleeves". Like arm warmers, but white or patterned treated spandex, with massive sweat wicking. I actually felt cooler with them on than without. The capper (and what makes this relevant to the quote)

SPF 30 that you don't have to reapply.

You still have to take care of face, neck & ears, but not having to worry about frying my arms helps.

Sexy_Lugs

Hello all,


Just completed my first century (104) in 5:30'ish minutes. Here are some things I learned and took away from this amazing trip.


1. Train harder than you plan to ride. If you train properly, gaging your training off of the topographical route that you will be doing, you should have little trouble toning it down 20% for the first half of the ride to properly gage how you are feeling for the rest.


2. To train for a century, you do not have to ride a century. I like to train really hard, and therefor I do not allow myself to go any further than 80% of the amount of miles I will be riding on race day.


3. Make sure EVERYTHING fits well. Trust me... I only noticed truly at about mile 70 that the seat I thought was "broke in" was probably more "broke" and I suffered for the last 34 miles with that understanding.


4. Eat and drink as much as you can! No seriously, this is not the time to starve your body. I burned over six thousand calories, that is three days worth of food, I had to keep replenished some how.


5. Smile! This is supposed to be fun, if you are frowning, you are doing this ALL wrong.

unterhausen

training for a fixed gear century thread

Popeyecahn

^^^This. (It applies for any bike, and the poster indicates as much.)

I'll quintuple the motion on hydration and food and add some thoughts having just completed my first century ride a couple of weekends ago.

1. Know the route you are planning (or if already laid out) on taking. Intimately. There is nothing like taking a wrong turn and getting lost, then running
low on food or water. It can be demoralizing.
2. Unless you are working towards a PR (sub 5 etc), stop and smell the roses, take pics and use these moments to let your a$$ return to it's original
form.
3. Bring at least 2 spare tubes, you never know when a pothole will take out both at the same time (thank you city of Escondido). Also consider a small
emergency repair kit with a quick connect link. A guy I know did and it really helped another rider who broke a chain going up Palomar.

4. Consider riding with others, whether it be 1 or 2 or a good sized group. Nothing beats fatigue like a companion.

jrickards

I've done a century once but this year's charity ride is 4 centuries (160km) in 4 days (640km, except for those who like torture, they're doing up to 830km in the 4 days). We will be about 20 riders, will have a SAG with food and water stops every 30-40km and the route is relatively flat with a total of about 1,900m (6000ft) climbing over the 640km (I haven't seen the route for the 830km but on the 3rd and longest day, 800m/2500ft of climbing has been added, just for them).

I'm a little scared of not being able to do the 4xCenturies but I'm going to try and I do have until mid-September when the ride will take place. I'm also 57 and although I commute most days of the week (30-60km/day depending on the route I decide to take) from April to September, I don't do a lot of distance in a day. It's the fear talking in me right now, trying to prepare me for failure but I have to overcome that.

lanahk

jrickards, if you can do 60km a day, you can do back to back (to back to back) centuries. Just take some longer rides on the weekends. Find a town 125km away from you, ride there on a Saturday and ride back Sunday. Or find one 160km away. Either way, you got this.

unterhausen

if you can ride 100km without falling apart, you can easily do 160km. Work up to that distance first. And on any distance ride, don't think about the whole thing at once, just to the next food stop or some intermediate goal like that. Randonneurs commonly ride 600km in less than 40 hours. I don't think anyone thinks about that whole distance at once. I am usually pretty happy when I hit the 200km mark, generally trying not to think about the fact that I have to ride another 200km before I sleep and 400km before I'm done. I'd rather let that happy fact sneak up on me over time.

Chesterton

I agree that if you can comfortably ride a metric century, an imperial century isn't significantly harder (it just takes longer). I rode 100 km the week before I rode my first century (actually 111 miles altogether) and didn't have any showstopping problems with fitness or mindset.

Someone mentioned a emergency repair kit with a chain link a few posts back. I broke a chain halfway through a 100 km ride and had to call a family member to get picked up; very demoralizing and embarrassing. From now on I carry a small multitool with a chain tool (the Park Tool IB-2) and a couple of KMC masterlinks that match my chain, in addition to everything required to change a flat (replace the tube and patch it later at home).