Time to replace chain?
#1
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Time to replace chain?
I now have 2500+ miles on my Madone. The chain has developed a click, every two revolutions of the pedal. I think it is binding somewhere. It's clean and well lubed. When this was happening, I stopped and pedaled backwards watching the chain, and the master comes around every two cranks in the gear I'm in, so I really think it is chain.
Haven't measured the length yet, but could this be a sign of needing replacement? Is 2500 miles out of the stock chain good? I crank a LOT of hills in my rides, not much flat area, and with my weight, I'm sure I have put some good strain on it.
My real question is, do I stick with stock? Or is there something better to replace with. Even if this turns out not to be the problem, I plan to get a chain as a spare.
Thoughts?
Haven't measured the length yet, but could this be a sign of needing replacement? Is 2500 miles out of the stock chain good? I crank a LOT of hills in my rides, not much flat area, and with my weight, I'm sure I have put some good strain on it.
My real question is, do I stick with stock? Or is there something better to replace with. Even if this turns out not to be the problem, I plan to get a chain as a spare.
Thoughts?
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Gary F.
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Gary F.
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#2
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If you have a so-called "stiff link" you should see it as it comes off of the derailleur when you slowly pedal backwards. If you find one use this procedure to remedy it: https://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adj...html#stifflink
You should also frequently measure your chain with a good steel rule to monitor its state of wear. It is not possible to predict wear by mileage alone as riding conditions and maintenance practices (or lack thereof) have strong influences on chain life.
When you do buy a replacement chain I recommend getting one which joins with a master link as opposed to the Shimano "special joining pin" which requires (buying and having one on hand) a new one each time you open the chain. You will also need a chain tool to shorten the new chain to match the number of links of the old one.
You should also frequently measure your chain with a good steel rule to monitor its state of wear. It is not possible to predict wear by mileage alone as riding conditions and maintenance practices (or lack thereof) have strong influences on chain life.
When you do buy a replacement chain I recommend getting one which joins with a master link as opposed to the Shimano "special joining pin" which requires (buying and having one on hand) a new one each time you open the chain. You will also need a chain tool to shorten the new chain to match the number of links of the old one.
#3
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The current chain has the master link that you use special pliers to just squeeze the chain together to remove. I will certainly go that route. Looking at maybe an Ultegra CN6701 or something like that.
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Gary F.
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Gary F.
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My bike page: https://www.gwfweb.com/bicycles
Build a bike stand! https://www.gwfweb.com/bicycles/stands.html
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As others said, look for a stiff link, and measure your chain for stretch (wear).
You also asked if 2,500 miles was OK life, and while it isn't great, it's fairly typical for hard riders in hilly areas. The higher tension involved in climbing increases the wear rate, so you'll likely never see the kind of chain life that someone riding in flat landscape will.
Going forward you might want to use two or three chains rotating them every 1,000 miles or so. If you're chain still has life in it, replace it now, but save it for when the new chain or chains catch up in wear condition, then rotate it back into the mix. The advantage of rotating multiple chains, is that it keeps the chains and sprockets better matched for their life cycle compared to running each chain until it's replacement point then starting a new chain.
You also asked if 2,500 miles was OK life, and while it isn't great, it's fairly typical for hard riders in hilly areas. The higher tension involved in climbing increases the wear rate, so you'll likely never see the kind of chain life that someone riding in flat landscape will.
Going forward you might want to use two or three chains rotating them every 1,000 miles or so. If you're chain still has life in it, replace it now, but save it for when the new chain or chains catch up in wear condition, then rotate it back into the mix. The advantage of rotating multiple chains, is that it keeps the chains and sprockets better matched for their life cycle compared to running each chain until it's replacement point then starting a new chain.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#6
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Back from LB S, chain stretch to limit. Replaced. Labor was hell, cost me $4
I had a SRAM 1071 installed. Shifts like butter now! I'll keep an eye on this one, try not to let it get to the limit.
I had a SRAM 1071 installed. Shifts like butter now! I'll keep an eye on this one, try not to let it get to the limit.
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Gary F.
2019 Specialized Crux Elite X1
2015 Specialized Roubaix SL4 Expert
My bike page: https://www.gwfweb.com/bicycles
Build a bike stand! https://www.gwfweb.com/bicycles/stands.html
Gary F.
2019 Specialized Crux Elite X1
2015 Specialized Roubaix SL4 Expert
My bike page: https://www.gwfweb.com/bicycles
Build a bike stand! https://www.gwfweb.com/bicycles/stands.html