3speedslow

As I looked it over, the list of damage grew. I would not mind putting another bike on the road for someone else. It would take more work and my time though.
Damage:
bent handlebar
banana front wheel
broke shifter case
fork tine wave, steer tube off
headtube plane looks off aligned from seat tube
HS threads messed from lock ring pushed up

dweenk

The fenders appear to be aluminized steel. Am I correct?

3speedslow

Correct, aluminium steel. They look nice under all the grime when I spot scrub places. These are Wald mudguards I believe. I like the fact that they have straight lines running the length of the curve. I might try taping them up and painting stripes on them. Don’t know what colour yet.

I will make an attempt to straighten the front wheel. The back is fine and shifts clean, a Shimano unit labeled 3cc. Too bad the rims are chrome.

juvela

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These are two very good finds. Usually with Gian Robert one takes in a single odd piece and you have a full gear ensemble plus an extra rear mech. Excellent. IIRC Gian Robert mechs are covered by Disraeli Gears so you can read a bit of their history there.

In the past there have been Gian Robert road ensembles complete with alloy cotterless chainsets and alloy saddle pillars. Even ones in gold finish.

Thanks for posting.

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juvela

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Count yourself fortunate that your example came with the Jubile rear mech upgrade. Some Super Course Mk.II's got this and other upgrades while others were kitted as per catalogue. Such were the conditions of the day... There were some which received both a gear ensemble upgrade and a chainset upgrade.

Also that the crank arm on the NERVAR Sport is in perfect registration with the spider. Often on these the swaging is not tight enough and the arm is able to shift a bit in relation to the spider.

Tip - when you repack BB check the fit of the spindle tapers to the arms. There were some of these which came through where the mating at this location was not correct.

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dweenk

[QUOTEThe back is fine and shifts clean, a Shimano unit labeled 3cc. Too bad the rims are chrome.[/QUOTE]
Is that 3cc or 333. The Shimano hubs that I am familiar with are 333.

BTW, I have a pair of aluminized fenders for 26" wheels that you may have for cost of shipping.

J.Higgins 

Nice score!

Not that I want to drift this thread into another leather saddle reconditioning thread, but I have recently had great success doing the following:

1. Prepare a 5-gallon bucket of hot tapwater, with a good squirt of Dawn dish soap.

2. Soak the saddle overnight.

3. Remove the saddle, and wash under warm water. Now is the time to take a rag and work on stains and spots.

4. Set it somewhere to dry, but monitor it. ***This is important.*** If you simply let it dry, you won't be able to do what is next. Let the leather get to the point of being dry-feeling, but still soft and pliable. Then...

5. Soaking it up real good with this stuff, Nikwax Conditioner for Leather

6. Let it soak in and do its job. It feeds the leather and makes it a lot more supple.

7. When its almost dry - and I stress ALMOST DRY - hit it up with some Nikwax Waterproofing Wax for Leather

8. That stuff is sooooo much better than Proofide, imho. I've treated well over a dozen Brooks saddles using this system, and it works excellently!

I hope this helps.

3speedslow

Is that 3cc or 333. The Shimano hubs that I am familiar with are 333.

BTW, I have a pair of aluminized fenders for 26" wheels that you may have for cost of shipping.[/QUOTE]

3CC is what is written on the hub and coaster brake arm, which is probably what the cc refer to. I am set for 26” mudguards but I will PM you.

bark_eater 

69 huffy sportsman intercepted from dump. Its a 22" so I might rat rod it at some point. . I dig the SA grip shift.

dweenk

I any external parts of the grip shifter are missing or damaged let me know. BTW that is a strange looking rear rack.

bark_eater 

I think the shifter is compleat but all the cables are rust welded so I'm not going to mess with it. The rack is a mount for a child seat that was long gone. There's a lot of rust the frame and it's a Huffy so I don't see restoring it to some former glory. Good cantidate for rust experiments though.

3speedslow

From bad to worse! Last week I was gifted a bent up 89 Ross 3 speed for parts. Last night this came off a scrappers truck for free as well.

Its all there minus the chain. A modern retro Schwinn Admiral 7 speed bike. This one will be rehabbed then pasted on to someone who needs a bike.

oneclick 

Gian Robert steel mechs were and still are nasty ugly heavy sloppy tripe.

The "Competition" alloy ones are passable.

WGB 

Out for a ride Fri. Stopped at yard sale but owner said no bikes.

Passed again today and saw these from the road. Sorry for the bad photo.



Stopped again and property owner said he found these after I left and did I want them?

His and hers Raleigh Sports.




I know that you can't just cut-off the spokes to save a hub with a freewheel because you won't get the freewheel off later, but with an internal hub can I just cut the hub out??

3speedslow

23” men’s frame, score! Looks to be all there for both, score!

riva

I think I actually prefer the ladies on a heavy cruiser like those.. I think I have one of those ladies frames in my shed someplace.

thumpism 

Please don't do that. They are both 23" frames, pretty unusual. We can't tell you what to do but free don't make 'em garbage. My ladies' 23" Sports was at the curb on trash day.

Be sure to show us closeups of the shop stickers.

WGB 

thumpism The rims on these are steel and because the bikes have been left in for decades in an unheated barn, the rims are heavily rusted. The rear wheel of the men's frame is not too bad but even that isn't pretty and the the rear wheel on the ladies frame is really, really bad. I figured I'd have to replace the wheel sets anyway so was going to take off the hub and strip it down as I had never rebuilt a Sturmey Archer rear hub. Are you saying I should try to save the rims? Even if I do they will be heavily pitted right through the chrome.


I should say I was going to break both bikes down and Evaporust the components excepting the cranks because I still don't have a cotter press and for "now" the co-op is closed.

HPL

Some '90s LOOKs for $7.50 a pair, perfect bearing function. Black pedal bodies are easy to touch up with paint. Nice little feature with the LOOK logo cast into the pedal body, haven't seen this on other variants. Still my favorite "old time" clipless pedals. Found an original mid '80s pair that I might grab next time; nobody else will uses them where I'm at.

J.Higgins 

I believe that Thump was trying to tell you not to discard those frames, but now it sounds more like you want to clean them up - which is good.Iv'e rebuilt dozens of these bikes, and it looks to me like your bikes are actually quite savable. Once you have all of the components off, and the BB and headsets out, start by cleaning. I use Armor-All Auto Cleaner. Its gentle to the paint and decals. WD40 for grease and oil. Simple Green to dissolve dried grease and oils. Then use an automotive cleaner-wax. It will lift the look of aging out of the paint. I follow this up with a coat or two of Renaissance wax.

HPL

They certainly WILL NOT be installed on any performance frame, but they might find a place on a "no name" or mass produced frame. The only performance comparison I can make would be in reference to the Camp "Valentino/Velox" style RDs. Although I don't believe the bikes I rode with those RDs were properly set up/adjusted and/or maintained when ridden. What bike did you ride equipped with these mechs, what range gearing did the cluster have? It is stamped with "13T-32T". I'm not expecting lightning shifts, but with a decent Sun Tour/Maeda Freewheel I would expect it to be usable for light commuter duty.. If they don't get used they will languish on the "wall of shame" shelf with other odd and misfit, and broken parts; a sad life.

alo

Here is one bike I rescued from the trash.



You can see it is a Raleigh. Most of the parts are alunimum. It appears to have titanium handlebars. If they are not titanium, they may be stainless steel.

This bike was complete and working when I picked it up. All I did was put air in the tires, wipe the dust off the seat, and raise the seat.

This bike appears to have never been left in the rain. It is very good condition. Many trashed bikes have some rust. I have not cleaned it. It has some dust and spider webs on it. If I cleaned it, it would look prettier.

The rim brakes work very well. The front suspension works well.

I get the impression, with so much aluminum, and titanium, it must have been more expensive than average in its day.

Anyone know what year this is from?

Anyone have an idea what it is worth?

J.Higgins 

A nice dump find, for sure, but not much more than a fun beater.

2cam16

I doubt it has titanium parts. Raleigh mtb's of that era weren't anything great. Steel chainrings that are riveted is one giveaway. It's somewhere from the 90's. Nevertheless,enjoy it!

curbtender

I was going to post these in "Looking for these?" thread, but they were close enough to go look at myself. Pair of smoked chrome Peugeots for $10 a piece. The Orient Express was in good condition, but has 10" of seatpost frozen. The Tundra Express has rusted spokes but I have extra wheels.