Worn teeth on Victory rear derailleur stop
#1
señor miembro
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Worn teeth on Victory rear derailleur stop
Because I use 14-28t wide range freewheels, I want to use the removable hanger stop of this Victory rear derailleur in its lower position. But the worn teeth between the stop and derailleur don't line up well, allowing the stop in its lower position to move up to the upper position. I tried to file both to fit a little better. It may have helped some, but there's not a lot of material there to begin. Then thought, well, I'll just permanently JB Weld it in the lower position. But now I'm thinking about using a small block like this 5/32" ball bearing to prevent movement. A better designed plastic piece (maybe from a pen cap?) might be better. Whadya think?
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Wouldn't a soft-ish plastic like a pen cap just compress and allow it to move (less, perhaps)? The ball bearing looks almost like it belongs.
(BTW, it also reflects your camera/phone.....)
(BTW, it also reflects your camera/phone.....)
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señor miembro
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Thanks. Yeah, I was thinking the plastic would have to be pretty solid somehow.
I did finish overhauling and polishing it. These are a little easier to polish than some others, like the 4th gen ones with the "Campagnolo" script.
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I did finish overhauling and polishing it. These are a little easier to polish than some others, like the 4th gen ones with the "Campagnolo" script.
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#4
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Damn, that’s a nice looking derailleur. Well done.
Last edited by natterberry; 05-12-20 at 03:38 PM.
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señor miembro
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I remembered I had some Sugru moldable rubber, so thought what the hell. I pushed a little in there, added the ball bearing, took the pic, and pushed a little more sugru in there. Seems like a better solution than jb weld, but a little lazy I didn't engineer a nice plastic piece.
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Love it!
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Interesting and elegant solution. I had a similar problem on my Peugeot PR10, where the 28t would drag on the jockey wheel. I tried all kinds of adjustments to fix it, lacking a B screw adjust. I finally rotated the derailleur enough to clear the jockey wheel, and inserted a small screw in the gap. The screw threads keep it in place, and I haven't needed any permanent way to secure it. Not as elegant as yours, but so far so good. The screw is visible just to the right of the upper Simplex logo, parallel to the frame tubes.
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If you are going to use a plastic wedge or plug to hold the RD angle in position, you need to make it out of high compression resistant plastic like Delrin.
A possible option is having something 3D printed, if you have it available to you.
A possible option is having something 3D printed, if you have it available to you.
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83 Davidson Signature
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84 Gitane Tour de France.
85 Vitus Plus Carbone 7
86 ALAN Record Carbonio
86 Medici Aerodynamic (Project)
88 Pinarello Montello
89 Bottecchia Professional Chorus SL
95 Trek 5500 OCLV (Project)