Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions
#6676
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Brighton, Michigan
Posts: 661
Bikes: Optima Baron LR, '14 Nishiki Maricopa,'87 Trek 330 Elance, '89 Miyata 1400, '85 Peugeot PGN10, '04 Fuji Ace, '06 Giant Rincon, '95 Giant Allegre, '83 Trek 620, '86 Schwinn High Sierra
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 224 Post(s)
Liked 162 Times
in
106 Posts
I should have never found this thread. But I did, and now you know what I had to do. I had to build one.
I have a question, but I think I already know the answer. It's a 1986 Schwinn High Sierra. The original rollers brakes looks like they were replaced with Shimano U-Brakes.
Researching what options I have for brakes, am I correct to say that I am only limited to roller cam brakes and BMX style U-Brakes? And since U-Brakes are easy to purchase, what is normally the largest tire I can fit using U-Brakes?
In any case, the frame's going to the powder coating shop this morning. The frame is the tan/chocolate color scheme. I plan to keep the entire frame as tan. Pics once I have this built.
I have a question, but I think I already know the answer. It's a 1986 Schwinn High Sierra. The original rollers brakes looks like they were replaced with Shimano U-Brakes.
Researching what options I have for brakes, am I correct to say that I am only limited to roller cam brakes and BMX style U-Brakes? And since U-Brakes are easy to purchase, what is normally the largest tire I can fit using U-Brakes?
In any case, the frame's going to the powder coating shop this morning. The frame is the tan/chocolate color scheme. I plan to keep the entire frame as tan. Pics once I have this built.
Last edited by friday1970; 04-22-20 at 06:41 AM.
#6677
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 4,704
Bikes: 82 Medici, 2011 Richard Sachs, 2011 Milwaukee Road
Mentioned: 55 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1948 Post(s)
Liked 2,010 Times
in
1,109 Posts
Welcome to the forum Koiboy .
I would recommend a 21 inch vintage frame which in general, would have a reasonably level top tube and rigid front forks. Your legs seem to match your height. My legs are 1cm shorter than yours but I am not quite 5,10 theses days with long arms. This allows me to ride bikes made for large average people like yourself. Sometimes the size is printed on the bike. You will likely want a new stem that is shorter and taller to put the bars where you want them. Like a Nitto Dirt Drop.
I would recommend a 21 inch vintage frame which in general, would have a reasonably level top tube and rigid front forks. Your legs seem to match your height. My legs are 1cm shorter than yours but I am not quite 5,10 theses days with long arms. This allows me to ride bikes made for large average people like yourself. Sometimes the size is printed on the bike. You will likely want a new stem that is shorter and taller to put the bars where you want them. Like a Nitto Dirt Drop.
__________________
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
#6678
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: NW Ohio
Posts: 3,419
Bikes: 1984 Miyata 310, 1986 Schwinn Sierra, 2011 Jamis Quest, 1980 Peugeot TH8 Tandem, 1992 Performance Parabola, 1987 Ross Mt. Hood, 1988 Schwinn LeTour, 1988 Trek 400T, 1981 Fuji S12-S LTD, 197? FW Evans
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 531 Post(s)
Liked 1,004 Times
in
514 Posts
I should have never found this thread. But I did, and now you know what I had to do. I had to build one.
I have a question, but I think I already know the answer. It's a 1986 Schwinn High Sierra. The original rollers brakes looks like they were replaced with Shimano U-Brakes.
Researching what options I have for brakes, am I correct to say that I am only limited to roller cam brakes and BMX style U-Brakes? And since U-Brakes are easy to purchase, what is normally the largest tire I can fit using U-Brakes?
In any case, the frame's going to the powder coating shop this morning. The frame is the tan/chocolate color scheme. I plan to keep the entire frame as tan. Pics once I have this built.
I have a question, but I think I already know the answer. It's a 1986 Schwinn High Sierra. The original rollers brakes looks like they were replaced with Shimano U-Brakes.
Researching what options I have for brakes, am I correct to say that I am only limited to roller cam brakes and BMX style U-Brakes? And since U-Brakes are easy to purchase, what is normally the largest tire I can fit using U-Brakes?
In any case, the frame's going to the powder coating shop this morning. The frame is the tan/chocolate color scheme. I plan to keep the entire frame as tan. Pics once I have this built.
#6679
Senior Member
Hello you all
So, being stuck at home like half of the planet, I thought I would browse the french equivalent of craigslist to try and find a decent old 26" MTB to convert into a (so-called) "monstercross" but I seem to face a problem :
So do you have any advices and/or references (websites...) to share...
Florent
So, being stuck at home like half of the planet, I thought I would browse the french equivalent of craigslist to try and find a decent old 26" MTB to convert into a (so-called) "monstercross" but I seem to face a problem :
So do you have any advices and/or references (websites...) to share...
Florent
It sounds like you have done some research already. This site is searchable and you should be able to find just about any info. you need right here with a little patience.
You are fairly tall with a long inseam - so 21" to 23" MTB frame size is a good starting point for old-school MTB's with level top tubes.
For bikes with sloping top tubes - that are sized using the S - M - L designation - you should look for a Large. When you change from flat bars to drop bars that may make the frame seem smaller - lots of advice re: this can be found in this thread.
And, since you are buying from CL then you'll certainly be able to test ride the bike.
If you see any interesting possibilities on CL you can post them here for suggestions re
: the particular bike - you need 10 posts before you can post photos to this site. It would be interesting to see what's available in France as compared to the US.
Good Luck.
Likes For jlaw:
#6680
Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Welcome to the forum Koiboy .
I would recommend a 21 inch vintage frame which in general, would have a reasonably level top tube and rigid front forks. Your legs seem to match your height. My legs are 1cm shorter than yours but I am not quite 5,10 theses days with long arms. This allows me to ride bikes made for large average people like yourself. Sometimes the size is printed on the bike. You will likely want a new stem that is shorter and taller to put the bars where you want them. Like a Nitto Dirt Drop.
I would recommend a 21 inch vintage frame which in general, would have a reasonably level top tube and rigid front forks. Your legs seem to match your height. My legs are 1cm shorter than yours but I am not quite 5,10 theses days with long arms. This allows me to ride bikes made for large average people like yourself. Sometimes the size is printed on the bike. You will likely want a new stem that is shorter and taller to put the bars where you want them. Like a Nitto Dirt Drop.
Seems I've got everything I need. That sizes narrows down my options, though, as most of the decent bikes I can find on ads are like 19" (48 cm) or shorter, so it seems... :-/
But a very few are labeled XL or 53 cm. I shall look into them, then.
Thanks!
#6681
Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Welcome to BF!
It sounds like you have done some research already. This site is searchable and you should be able to find just about any info. you need right here with a little patience.
You are fairly tall with a long inseam - so 21" to 23" MTB frame size is a good starting point for old-school MTB's with level top tubes.
For bikes with sloping top tubes - that are sized using the S - M - L designation - you should look for a Large. When you change from flat bars to drop bars that may make the frame seem smaller - lots of advice re: this can be found in this thread.
And, since you are buying from CL then you'll certainly be able to test ride the bike.
If you see any interesting possibilities on CL you can post them here for suggestions re
: the particular bike - you need 10 posts before you can post photos to this site. It would be interesting to see what's available in France as compared to the US.
Good Luck.
It sounds like you have done some research already. This site is searchable and you should be able to find just about any info. you need right here with a little patience.
You are fairly tall with a long inseam - so 21" to 23" MTB frame size is a good starting point for old-school MTB's with level top tubes.
For bikes with sloping top tubes - that are sized using the S - M - L designation - you should look for a Large. When you change from flat bars to drop bars that may make the frame seem smaller - lots of advice re: this can be found in this thread.
And, since you are buying from CL then you'll certainly be able to test ride the bike.
If you see any interesting possibilities on CL you can post them here for suggestions re
: the particular bike - you need 10 posts before you can post photos to this site. It would be interesting to see what's available in France as compared to the US.
Good Luck.
I'll dig more deeply into the forum to get other info/inspirations already present.
In the ads I see, many bikes are labeled as L, M, S... but are actually not sloppy. And I can tell that they don't always relate from one another. I've started to write the sellers to ask for measurement, when in doubt, then.
Just to make sure : they should measure it from the center of the crank up to the intersection of the top tube, right...? Just to make sure. I hope it's right because if it is until the seatpost exit, then it's gonna become tricky as sometimes, some are up to a few centimeters above the intersection (I hope I'm clear... T_T).
Anyway, is the blue bike on the picture you posted yours? That's a true beauty!!! I don't know this brand/model but here again, in France, no chance to find a MTB with lugs, sadly... mostly cheap brands from France or Asia.
Cheers!
#6682
Ellensburg, WA
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Ellensburg, WA
Posts: 3,755
Bikes: See my signature
Mentioned: 77 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 313 Post(s)
Liked 458 Times
in
160 Posts
And welcome!
__________________
1984 Gitane Tour de France; 1968 Peugeot PL8; 1982 Nishiki Marina 12; 1984 Peugeot PSV; 1993 Trek 950 mtb; 1983 Vitus 979; Colnago Super, mid-80's Bianchi Veloce, 1984 or 85 Vitus 979
1984 Gitane Tour de France; 1968 Peugeot PL8; 1982 Nishiki Marina 12; 1984 Peugeot PSV; 1993 Trek 950 mtb; 1983 Vitus 979; Colnago Super, mid-80's Bianchi Veloce, 1984 or 85 Vitus 979
#6683
Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
But for you, that makes a long way to come and get your bikes until WA, doesn't it...?
#6684
Ellensburg, WA
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Ellensburg, WA
Posts: 3,755
Bikes: See my signature
Mentioned: 77 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 313 Post(s)
Liked 458 Times
in
160 Posts
I've only got one bike that came from France (as a frame). It was a mid-70's Gitane Olympic but I was able to get it from a fellow member here. I just like French bikes so I go through Leboncoin just to see what is there. Shipping would probably be too expensive unless it was a dream bike
__________________
1984 Gitane Tour de France; 1968 Peugeot PL8; 1982 Nishiki Marina 12; 1984 Peugeot PSV; 1993 Trek 950 mtb; 1983 Vitus 979; Colnago Super, mid-80's Bianchi Veloce, 1984 or 85 Vitus 979
1984 Gitane Tour de France; 1968 Peugeot PL8; 1982 Nishiki Marina 12; 1984 Peugeot PSV; 1993 Trek 950 mtb; 1983 Vitus 979; Colnago Super, mid-80's Bianchi Veloce, 1984 or 85 Vitus 979
#6685
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,753
Bikes: 1986 KHS Fiero, 1989 Trek 950, 1990 Trek 7000, 1991 Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo, 1992 Trek 1400, 1997 Cannondale CAD2 R300, 1998 Cannondale CAD2 R200, 2002 Marin San Rafael, 2006 Cannondale CAAD8 R1000, 2010 Performance Access XCL9R
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 284 Post(s)
Liked 385 Times
in
207 Posts
1989 Trek 950. Dropped in drop bars and RSX shifters/brake levers. 3x7, shifts ok, needs a little fine tuning. Almost ready to ride. Still needs bar wrap.
EDIT....
Rides pretty good, save for the heavy box store bike tires on it. There is a "clunk" I haven't pinned down yet, but may be the BB. Need some red bar tape for this...
Last edited by zjrog; 04-27-20 at 06:39 PM.
Likes For zjrog:
#6686
Junior Member
Cannondale M800
Hi Folks, I just signed up from Ireland today, after spending the last 2 days going through the last 30 pages or so of this thread, and enjoying all the inspiring bikes ! I'm thinking I'd like to do a drop bar conversion on my Cannondale M800, which I bought new in 1992 (I think) while on holidays in Florida. I know some of you will already have guessed my problem, as I noticed a few similar mentions earlier, but hopefully some of you can assist ! The Cannondale M800's have an oversize fork/stem combo, the Steerer ID and the Stem OD are 28.6mm diameter. The original stem is probably acceptable for height, but is 13cm long, and I would need to get down to 6 or 8cm, but there are hardly any alternatives as far as I can see. The only possibility I've found so far is the largest size Nitto threadless Converter, which doesn't seem to be available anywhere at the moment, and is only 13cm long, so if I do find one, I'd need to add an extender, and a suitable threadless stem. Am I right in thinking that another possibility would be to put a sleeve in the steerer to downsize the ID from 1 1/8" to 1" so I would have a choice of Quill stems or threadless converters ? I would prefer not to change the fork if possible. I'd appreciate any other suggestions you might have. Thanks, Niall.
#6687
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Berea, KY
Posts: 1,135
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 360 Post(s)
Liked 323 Times
in
186 Posts
Hi Folks, I just signed up from Ireland today, after spending the last 2 days going through the last 30 pages or so of this thread, and enjoying all the inspiring bikes ! I'm thinking I'd like to do a drop bar conversion on my Cannondale M800, which I bought new in 1992 (I think) while on holidays in Florida. I know some of you will already have guessed my problem, as I noticed a few similar mentions earlier, but hopefully some of you can assist ! The Cannondale M800's have an oversize fork/stem combo, the Steerer ID and the Stem OD are 28.6mm diameter. The original stem is probably acceptable for height, but is 13cm long, and I would need to get down to 6 or 8cm, but there are hardly any alternatives as far as I can see. The only possibility I've found so far is the largest size Nitto threadless Converter, which doesn't seem to be available anywhere at the moment, and is only 13cm long, so if I do find one, I'd need to add an extender, and a suitable threadless stem. Am I right in thinking that another possibility would be to put a sleeve in the steerer to downsize the ID from 1 1/8" to 1" so I would have a choice of Quill stems or threadless converters ? I would prefer not to change the fork if possible. I'd appreciate any other suggestions you might have. Thanks, Niall.
__________________
Andy
Andy
#6688
Thrifty Bill
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Mountains of Western NC
Posts: 23,524
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
Mentioned: 96 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1236 Post(s)
Liked 964 Times
in
628 Posts
Sunlite makes a nice 1 1/8 quill stem, 80mm, for less than $20 on Ebay. May well be available elsewhere too. It has the two bolt clamp which I like, makes swapping handlebars super easy.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sunlite-All...0AAOSwa81aA6oD
Perhaps the ugliest stem made, but this one is a 60mm. Note 26.0 bar clamp.
https://www.modernbike.com/product-2...iABEgIRk_D_BwE
Myself, I prefer the Sunlite stem.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sunlite-All...0AAOSwa81aA6oD
Perhaps the ugliest stem made, but this one is a 60mm. Note 26.0 bar clamp.
https://www.modernbike.com/product-2...iABEgIRk_D_BwE
Myself, I prefer the Sunlite stem.
Last edited by wrk101; 05-13-20 at 07:01 PM.
#6689
Junior Member
Hi Andy, Thanks, and you are correct, I find these sizes quite confusing as they are not what they say on the tin ! When I measure the stem outside diameter it is 28.6mm diameter (1 1/8"). This fits into a 1/1/4" steerer, so I think it is called a 1 1/4" stem. I'll have another look for a sleeve. A custom stem sounds nice, I must check that out. Thanks.
#6690
Junior Member
Hi wrk101, Thanks for the suggestions, but as you can see from my above reply to Andy, the stems you linked to are called 1 1/8", but when I look at the spec, the quill diameter is only 25.4mm (1") so they would be too small. I need a stem that has an actual outside diameter of 1 1/8", which appears to be known as a 1 1/4" stem ! Confusing or what ! Cheers, Niall.
#6691
Newbie
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
New to the forum. I've picked up a Pinarello flatbar on the cheap, think it is the Treviso model in great condition and using at as a project bike to convert to drops. I'm mainly struggling with the gear shifters, is the best solution the tektros520 levers and bar end shifters or is there something neater? Thanks in advance
#6692
Junior Member
Cannondale M800 Stem
Found this in Bicycle Mechanics forum, which doesn't really come to any conclusion, sorry I can't post ULRL's yet.
does anyone make a 1-1/4 quill stem to 1-1/8 threadless adaptor?
#6693
Junior Member
Cannondale M800 Stem
Also found this in Mechanics, which explains it a bit better.
On a "quill" stem, the outside diameter of the quill matches the inside diameter of the steerer tube. "Headset size" always refers to the outside diameter of the steerer. Old, "road standard" forks used 1" diameter steerers and 22.2mm (aka 7/8") diameter quill stems. When "oversize" mountain bikes with 1 1/8" and 1 1/4" headsets came along, they matched up with 25.4mm (1") and 28.6mm (1 1/8") diameter quills. Does that help?
On a "quill" stem, the outside diameter of the quill matches the inside diameter of the steerer tube. "Headset size" always refers to the outside diameter of the steerer. Old, "road standard" forks used 1" diameter steerers and 22.2mm (aka 7/8") diameter quill stems. When "oversize" mountain bikes with 1 1/8" and 1 1/4" headsets came along, they matched up with 25.4mm (1") and 28.6mm (1 1/8") diameter quills. Does that help?
#6694
Senior Member
New to the forum. I've picked up a Pinarello flatbar on the cheap, think it is the Treviso model in great condition and using at as a project bike to convert to drops. I'm mainly struggling with the gear shifters, is the best solution the tektros520 levers and bar end shifters or is there something neater? Thanks in advance
Basically you could use the bar ends, or downtube shifters, or even do a modern upgrade with integrated shift levers. The latter would possibly require a new rear wheel and rear derailleur, but more specifics would be required for better advice.
#6695
Thrifty Bill
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Mountains of Western NC
Posts: 23,524
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
Mentioned: 96 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1236 Post(s)
Liked 964 Times
in
628 Posts
Hi wrk101, Thanks for the suggestions, but as you can see from my above reply to Andy, the stems you linked to are called 1 1/8", but when I look at the spec, the quill diameter is only 25.4mm (1") so they would be too small. I need a stem that has an actual outside diameter of 1 1/8", which appears to be known as a 1 1/4" stem ! Confusing or what ! Cheers, Niall.
The one I linked to is a 1 1/8 stem. 1 1/8 stems have a 1 inch quill. It’s the OD of the steer tube that is 1 1/8. 1 inch stems measure 22.2mm, while 1 inch = 25.4mm.
Can’t make up the nonsense in the bicycle world. Regardless I linked to a 1 1/8.
But if you go to a bike shop and order a 1” stem, you will get 22.2mm, and if you order a 1 1/8 stem you will get a 1 inch quill.
#6696
Junior Member
The one I linked to is a 1 1/8 stem. 1 1/8 stems have a 1 inch quill. It’s the OD of the steer tube that is 1 1/8. 1 inch stems measure 22.2mm, while 1 inch = 25.4mm.
Can’t make up the nonsense in the bicycle world. Regardless I linked to a 1 1/8.
But if you go to a bike shop and order a 1” stem, you will get 22.2mm, and if you order a 1 1/8 stem you will get a 1 inch quill.
Can’t make up the nonsense in the bicycle world. Regardless I linked to a 1 1/8.
But if you go to a bike shop and order a 1” stem, you will get 22.2mm, and if you order a 1 1/8 stem you will get a 1 inch quill.
#6698
Junior Member
Lots of cool rigs in here. I'm on my 3rd or 4th? drop bar mtb I just keep coming back to them. If you get the setup and reach right they can be very good all arounders. I'll post shots of mine in a bit when I can add links and pictures (need a few more posts).
#6699
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Upper Left, USA
Posts: 1,915
Mentioned: 50 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 634 Post(s)
Liked 444 Times
in
298 Posts
#6700
Junior Member
couple of $25 or so Diamond Back quill stems on ebay right now - they are long but with the 1-1/4 quill size you need...,