DonTx

I have XTR pedals on an XTR crankset, they have been on the bike since new (2008) I went to swap out pedals starting with the right side (that side should have right handed threads) these pedals use a 8mm hex wrench to remove. I started with a plain old allen wrench and stopped trying when they would not budge with a 8mm allen on a 1/2 drive breaker bar. Could it just be galled or frozen or am I doing something wrong?

mprince

I would apply some penetrating oil, allow it to work its magic, then re-attempt removal. You could also try a bit of heat, but I'd try the penetrating oil first. Does the NDS pedal come off?

dsbrantjr

Always remember that the sense of the thread is reversed when working from the backside of the pedal., so righty-loosey on the right pedal.
​​​​​​​Try a liberal application of penetrating oil, Kano Kroil is the best and PB Blaster is second, along with some time for it to work. Heating the crank eye with a hair dryer of judicious application of a butane torch may ease removal. Always use an unworn tool with good sharp edges to avoid stripping out the drive recess.

delbiker1 

Did you try strapping down the NDS arm to the stay to keep the crank arms in place? That frees you up to apply much more torque. As mentioned above be sure you are trying to turn in the right direction. They can be really diffficult sometimes.

Andrew R Stewart 

At the end of the unthreading efforts I'll remove the arm and lock it in a bench vise. This reduces the chance of damage to you and offers greater leverage efforts. Of course the vise needs to be up to the task too.

Galvanicly frozen pedals are not uncommon here in the rust belt, same too on coastal areas. Real penetrant fluids are your friend, acetone/transmission fluid is one home made example. WD 40 isn't worth much and will hinder real ones. Shock to the parts can help. I've seen stuff loosen quickly under the use of a automotive impact driver that resisted a lot of shop leverage attempts. Important is to stop a method before the tool fitting is damaged. This needs repeating, do not strip the pedal hex fitting or the wrench flats or you'll be going to rather destructive methods right away. Heat applied to the crank arm will open it' thread bore some, not your mother's hair dryer but baking in a 450* oven or a propane (Burnsamatic) torch flame are what I have used. I have beat the crank arm end with a hammer to break the bond and "form" the hole larger. Some of what you do is dependent on what you which to save, the arm or the pedal.

The take away is that once toy get things loose you'll never let your own pedals (and stems/seat posts) freeze in place again You'll become that guy who warns others (who likely won't heed your advice until...) Andy

Riveting

+1 for an impact to the wrench, after the part's been heated. I've restored old rust-bucket cars and have seen 9/16 nuts glowing bright red before the rust bond breaks with an air powered impact wrench.

dsbrantjr

I recommend the use of Tef-Gel and pedal washers to help prevent galvanic corrosion, and binding.

GamblerGORD53

If Andrew's method doesn't work...
I would strip the pedal to the spindle and put that in the vise. Grind some flats if necessary.
Use a pipe or whack crank arm with a 2x4.

DonTx

Thanks I'll make sure I am turning it in the right direction by checking on my other bike. I just had the pedals off of it. Then I'll apply some PB blaster and try again.

3alarmer 

.
...pedal removals are a good place to use a propane or MAPP gas torch. There's no paint involved in the area you need to heat, and you can play the flame mostly around the aluminum alloy crank arm, which expands t a different rate than the steel pedal spindle. Additionally, right after you heat it, it seems to make whatever penetrant you are using much more likely to thin out and wick into the threading. It doesn't take much time at heat, and by applying the heat mostly to the crank arm, you won't melt out. the grease in the pedal bearings.

It has always worked well for me, and I work on a lot of olde stuff.

Le Mechanic

ramzilla

Get the crank arm off the bike & remove the pedal from the spindle. Use diesel fuel for a penetrating oil. Put the crank arm flat on the floor. Put a 16" pipe wrench on the spindle at a 45 degree angle. Put all your weight downward on the wrench & bust that spindle off.