Center Pull Brakes?
#1
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Center Pull Brakes?
I have an older bike with the center pull type brakes. I have installed new shoes, adjusted the cable tension etc. They will stop the bike, but not lock up the wheels like a v-brake set-up. Any ideas on what I am missing?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#2
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I don't think you are missing anything by not being able to lock the brakes. It's not something you would normally want to do. KoolStop pads should be sufficient but there is also the option of compressionless cable housing.
#3
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Thanks, it's a 25 year old bike applying both front and rear from 15 mph will stop in about 10 feet, I did not know if there were anything special on these old systems that needed to be don to get them working better.
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Have you cleaned your rims?
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Which type of center pull brakes does the OP have? Bolt ons like the common Weinemann or attached to frame pivots like what are commonly called canti levers? Is the straddle cable length (and thus the angle it acts on the brake arm with) adjustable? What type of casing stop (cable hanger) are on the bike?
Some center pull brakes can be set up to be very effective with adjusting the straddle cable angle as example. Others have so much flex in the cable casing stop that less then full force makes it's way to the brake. Sheldon Brown's website has a very good description of all this. Andy
Some center pull brakes can be set up to be very effective with adjusting the straddle cable angle as example. Others have so much flex in the cable casing stop that less then full force makes it's way to the brake. Sheldon Brown's website has a very good description of all this. Andy
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Ditto on the straddle cable angle for cantilever brakes. There's a good explanation of that on Sheldon Brown's website.
Some canti brakes with post-type shoes can be difficult to set up correctly. It's a three-dimensional problem to solve with only one bolt, then you need to do it again on the other side. Then twice again on the other wheel.
Cable housing type was mentioned, but poor routing and incorrect length can make a difference as well. The cable itself must be clean, too. Inspect for hidden fraying as well as corrosion.
I agree the bike should be able to skid stop, at least with both brakes applied.
Some canti brakes with post-type shoes can be difficult to set up correctly. It's a three-dimensional problem to solve with only one bolt, then you need to do it again on the other side. Then twice again on the other wheel.
Cable housing type was mentioned, but poor routing and incorrect length can make a difference as well. The cable itself must be clean, too. Inspect for hidden fraying as well as corrosion.
I agree the bike should be able to skid stop, at least with both brakes applied.
#8
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Thread Starter
Ditto on the straddle cable angle for cantilever brakes. There's a good explanation of that on Sheldon Brown's website.
Some canti brakes with post-type shoes can be difficult to set up correctly. It's a three-dimensional problem to solve with only one bolt, then you need to do it again on the other side. Then twice again on the other wheel.
Cable housing type was mentioned, but poor routing and incorrect length can make a difference as well. The cable itself must be clean, too. Inspect for hidden fraying as well as corrosion.
I agree the bike should be able to skid stop, at least with both brakes applied.
Some canti brakes with post-type shoes can be difficult to set up correctly. It's a three-dimensional problem to solve with only one bolt, then you need to do it again on the other side. Then twice again on the other wheel.
Cable housing type was mentioned, but poor routing and incorrect length can make a difference as well. The cable itself must be clean, too. Inspect for hidden fraying as well as corrosion.
I agree the bike should be able to skid stop, at least with both brakes applied.
They are in fact the post type pads, I went down the same paths you guys did, clean wheel, min..i slack in cable etc. I think I'm about 80% there on these, I can pull the bike up on end, with either front or rears applied, it will almost skid. They do not lock-up like the v-brakes on my other mechanical brake bikes. This will be an interesting one to get 100%
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They are in fact the post type pads, I went down the same paths you guys did, clean wheel, min..i slack in cable etc. I think I'm about 80% there on these, I can pull the bike up on end, with either front or rears applied, it will almost skid. They do not lock-up like the v-brakes on my other mechanical brake bikes. This will be an interesting one to get 100%
#10
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center pull brakes have their own special followers.. because the lever arm pulls up from the side opposite the pivot they are very high MA.
these are Expensive. Note the framebuilder brazed on the posts..
these are Expensive. Note the framebuilder brazed on the posts..
#11
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I got them up and working correctly, one of the springs was dislodged and it was not retracting properly. I'm getting a dead stop in 3-5 ft at 15 MPH, when I apply both brakes it sucks the bike down pretty quick. It's hot out and I have some new fat sticky tires on this cruiser, instead of skidding it's sticking in place. Took the bike on a 5 mile trip through the trail, the cushy cruiser combined with the little hub motor up front makes for a relaxed breezy ride in this heat.
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#13
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It's driving me a little crazy: centerpulls and cantilevers are not the same thing! It seems like more than a few posters are mixing them up.
fietsbob's post has some (very high end) modern centerpulls with frame braze ons (which are different than cantilever/v-brake)
krecik's post has some cantilevers.
I haven't worked on them a ton, but common mafac racers etc with a single mounting bolt work really pretty well--better, generally, than contemporary single pivot brakes, which enviable tire clearance. From everything I've read the centerpulls with braze ons work especially well.
Glad you go them working well OP.
fietsbob's post has some (very high end) modern centerpulls with frame braze ons (which are different than cantilever/v-brake)
krecik's post has some cantilevers.
I haven't worked on them a ton, but common mafac racers etc with a single mounting bolt work really pretty well--better, generally, than contemporary single pivot brakes, which enviable tire clearance. From everything I've read the centerpulls with braze ons work especially well.
Glad you go them working well OP.
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I got them up and working correctly, one of the springs was dislodged and it was not retracting properly. I'm getting a dead stop in 3-5 ft at 15 MPH, when I apply both brakes it sucks the bike down pretty quick. It's hot out and I have some new fat sticky tires on this cruiser, instead of skidding it's sticking in place. Took the bike on a 5 mile trip through the trail, the cushy cruiser combined with the little hub motor up front makes for a relaxed breezy ride in this heat.
Glad you figured that out. I always want to know the brakes are operating as well as they can. Having to stop quickly is something that happens suddenly, and, should be expected to happen.