Rear drop out - is this ok?
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Rear drop out - is this ok?
Looking at a used bike and noticed this screw in the rear dropout. Is this jerry-rigged? Should I be concerned? Thanks in advance...
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That may have been done because the original screw is still in place but broken off. What you see is similar to what was used on thousands of mid-range bikes over the bike boom years. It works just fine as long as you are OK with where the wheel sits in relationship to the cassette cogs and the rear derailleur. And you can improve the location by filing some more or getting a new washer and filing it less.
If this is a flip, it matters. If this is a rider and you can overlook it, it will work for you the next decade. Then spend $1.50 for new screw, washer and nut, do 10 minutes of work and go the next decade. Better steel, $3 and nicely greased - 2 decades.
Edit: or go to your coop and rummage around and find one of those parts shown above. The right bike shop might even have a new one.
If this is a flip, it matters. If this is a rider and you can overlook it, it will work for you the next decade. Then spend $1.50 for new screw, washer and nut, do 10 minutes of work and go the next decade. Better steel, $3 and nicely greased - 2 decades.
Edit: or go to your coop and rummage around and find one of those parts shown above. The right bike shop might even have a new one.
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With that piece, your hub is currently positioned perfectly for optimum indexed shifting.
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Last edited by cyccommute; 03-11-24 at 01:56 PM.
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Those came standard on many bikes, not just the lower end ones. Often used as the NDS counterpart of a separate derailleur hanger, of just instead of dropout adjuster screws.
My Peugeot PR10 came with them:
My Peugeot PR10 came with them:
#12
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Here is Shimano's 2005 spec for the recommended placement of axle relative to RD location. For SIS shifting bikes.
OP's pic seems to be reasonably close.
OP's pic seems to be reasonably close.
#13
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The first one I've seen on a short dropout.
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