Better brake cable...worse pull
09-01-20, 03:26 AM
#1
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Better brake cable...worse pull
Howdy,
I replaced the brake cable for the band brake...because the cable housing was rusty.
the old cables didnt have a plastic liner, but it operates just fine. The new cable does have a liner.
So, I was expecting buttery smoothness. But the brake pull with the new cable actually feels worse and require more force.
I noticed the new cable hosing is about 10 cm shorter than the old ones.
See pictures below (left hand side brake). Is the new cable housing not long enouh?
pic 1 deleted
pic 2 (left hand side looks a tat short)
pic 3 ( left lever cable look short. )
pic 4
pic 5 (cable run all the way back to the rear brake.
I replaced the brake cable for the band brake...because the cable housing was rusty.
the old cables didnt have a plastic liner, but it operates just fine. The new cable does have a liner.
So, I was expecting buttery smoothness. But the brake pull with the new cable actually feels worse and require more force.
I noticed the new cable hosing is about 10 cm shorter than the old ones.
See pictures below (left hand side brake). Is the new cable housing not long enouh?
pic 1 deleted
pic 2 (left hand side looks a tat short)
pic 3 ( left lever cable look short. )
pic 4
pic 5 (cable run all the way back to the rear brake.
Last edited by mtb_addict; 09-02-20 at 11:33 AM.
09-01-20, 06:37 AM
#2
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Looks long enough. Can you turn the bars all the way to the left - and to the right, without any of the cables preventing that? If yes - think it's fine.
For the force needed - I wrote a detailed article about housing (and cable) routing, along with some experimental data.
For the force needed - I wrote a detailed article about housing (and cable) routing, along with some experimental data.
09-01-20, 07:24 AM
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To the length- I'd try routing the cable on the LH side of the HT.
To the rough pull- Check the very ends of the casing for any burrs due to poor cutting. I like to file/grind brake casing flat so to reduce the flexing/bending at the end as one applies lever pull. Makes for a more solid feel and further insures there's no casing coil rubbing on the inner cable. Andy
To the rough pull- Check the very ends of the casing for any burrs due to poor cutting. I like to file/grind brake casing flat so to reduce the flexing/bending at the end as one applies lever pull. Makes for a more solid feel and further insures there's no casing coil rubbing on the inner cable. Andy
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09-02-20, 02:24 AM
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Just curious if you swapped the rear brake to the left handle on purposes or accidental.
It looks like the housings would be more even in length if the front brake was on the left side, also the rear brake housing would not be bending around the HT
It looks like the housings would be more even in length if the front brake was on the left side, also the rear brake housing would not be bending around the HT
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09-02-20, 03:08 AM
#5
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09-02-20, 03:51 AM
#6
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So undo the pinch bolt on the brake.
Does the brake open and close fully and easily by hand?
Pinch the cable at the brake end with your finger and operate the brake lever.
Does it pull smoothly and return smoothly?
Isolate the components to find which one is bad
Does the brake open and close fully and easily by hand?
Pinch the cable at the brake end with your finger and operate the brake lever.
Does it pull smoothly and return smoothly?
Isolate the components to find which one is bad
09-02-20, 11:21 AM
#8
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Fresh Brake pads next.. picture is of a Cheap single pivot rim brake.
..
..
Last edited by fietsbob; 09-02-20 at 07:51 PM.
09-02-20, 11:46 AM
#10
Banned
looks like something is responsible for friction ... gripping the rim .. I see a single pivot brake on the fork..
Good Luck
...
Good Luck
...
Last edited by fietsbob; 09-02-20 at 12:30 PM.
09-02-20, 12:26 PM
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I know when I replace a housing, I’ll cut, grind, and then I’ll make sure I open up each end. I have some small lapel/stick type pins and even I small drill bits that I insert into each end and twist around to make sure there is nothing to bind the cable.
John
John
09-02-20, 12:39 PM
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+1 for this advice. Isolate the components and test them individually. That usually will tell you where the issue is. I suspect the 10 cm shorter routing has increased friction inside the cable housing. Let us know how it turns out!
09-03-20, 03:36 AM
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Well you were saying it wasn't as smooth as you expected in your OP, the hard turning of the housing because of improper routing could be your issue.
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09-03-20, 03:45 AM
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09-03-20, 08:40 AM
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If there are no hard bends, the routing is fine.
The fact that the housing is shorter is a non issue, and likely reduces friction. This is assuming it is not so short that it is pulling at the cable ends. But it does not LOOK too short.
The fact that he runs his rear brake on the left side is personal preference, and unrelated to his problem.
I would suspect that one of the cable cuts is not clean, or there is an issue with a housing end ferrule or one of the frame cable stops.
The fact that the housing is shorter is a non issue, and likely reduces friction. This is assuming it is not so short that it is pulling at the cable ends. But it does not LOOK too short.
The fact that he runs his rear brake on the left side is personal preference, and unrelated to his problem.
I would suspect that one of the cable cuts is not clean, or there is an issue with a housing end ferrule or one of the frame cable stops.
09-03-20, 08:52 AM
#17
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There are different housing and cable diameters, also I think that gear housing is different as well. I am not saying this is the issue, but are you sure everything is rated to work together? I know some brake lines I got on vintage bikes is WAY thicker than ones I buy now. Could it be a tight fit inside the housing?
